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Location: Australia
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| dringo | RE: Antiquity | 3 | Oct 9 2009, 11:16 AM EDT by chrisdavies | ||||
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Thread started: May 15 2007, 5:57 PM EDT
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This route is definitely not the best HVS in the quarries by a very long way. Firstly it is probably worth E1 for the runout and the quality of the rock, and only one star. I am looking forward to the comments martin
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| phil.t | Australia ( up and around the skyline levels ) | 0 | Oct 8 2009, 5:57 PM EDT by phil.t | ||||
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Thread started: Oct 8 2009, 5:57 PM EDT
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Reasonable amount of activity going on up here. Why not make the trek up and join the fun. From vs to 7b theres plenty to keep you interested
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| pboltc | the top bolt on looning the tube? | 4 | Sep 24 2009, 7:18 PM EDT by Bork-Worship | ||||
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Thread started: Aug 18 2009, 10:04 AM EDT
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Should this be pulled as there is a decent size 3 cam slot just a few feet higher and should be able to get some gear in before it. It just seems in a sensless place?
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| chrisdavies | plastic soldiers | 0 | May 24 2009, 6:15 PM EDT by chrisdavies | ||||
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Thread started: May 24 2009, 6:15 PM EDT
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just a quickie, get yourselves up and on to this route, fantastic positions, loads of clips, yet still feels like a good adventure. there is some loose rock , but a few ascents should sort that out ! theres not many routes that have as good a view as this one does, when your sitting at the top belaying your second !
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| The_Third | Puffing Billy+Boulder Problems | 2 | Apr 3 2009, 7:29 PM EDT by The_Third | ||||
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Thread started: Apr 3 2009, 4:39 PM EDT
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Unsure about which one of the ones I have added is Puffing Billy, as "Loose Block Corner" I felt had far too much loose rock(one large loose block in particular) and no good moves! The corner left of shothole arete is possible but I feel wouldn't be a severe or good, I think you possibly did peg problem as the climbing on this was nice however no mention of peg+It's not really a corner. Anyway If anyone knows please delete/move as approppiate, thanks.
Also I hope the problems are roughly the right grades(unsure), some traffic would be good, they possibly are a little bit eliminate style however as they are boulder problems shouldn't be too much of an issue and there is probably two or so v4ish problems which I didn't do(not out of choice!). First the slab to the right of shothole arete however having done the moves(not linked) it is very contrived (don't use the arete) and then the hanging slab to the right of "with a little help from a tree" which possibly needs some rock trundling, is highball and I wasn't particuarlly happy doing it alone and with only 1 pad.
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| adam06 | sidings loose bolts | 0 | Dec 7 2008, 2:05 PM EST by adam06 | ||||
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Thread started: Dec 7 2008, 2:05 PM EST
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2 loose ones on polar express i think. so if anyone is goin take a spanner
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| cidernut | Above The Line | 0 | Oct 19 2008, 5:26 PM EDT by cidernut | ||||
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Thread started: Oct 19 2008, 5:26 PM EDT
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I'm not sure why the confusion about Above The Line, or why people are saying it traverses? My guidebook says "Climb the small slab starting to the left of the abseil back-up bolt, and trending up righwards", which made total sense to me looking at the slab - it follows a very thin seam/crack, which starts left of the back-up bolt and moves diagonally up righwards. Fair enough the first ascentionist may not be able to remember much about the route as I've been told, but I'd still say it's fairly obvious where it goes - and there's a line of bolts up that exact line. I did the bolted version then my partner soloed Above The Line to remove my draws, and thought the grade of HVS 4c was about right. So perhaps the bolted route whichever it is (I didn't have the descriptions from this site with me, just the guidebook) could be renamed 'Above The Line' to maintain the original route, with a note that it's been retroed, that would seem to make sense to me. I spoke to Mark about it at the time and believe he agrees: http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=98303. The top out is perfectly amenable for anybody who wants to take on the solo, although that's silly with the bolts there of course.
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| michaelburrows | hyperfly | 0 | Oct 16 2008, 9:07 AM EDT by michaelburrows | ||||
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Thread started: Oct 16 2008, 9:07 AM EDT
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did this yesterday, climbed left of the bolts up the corner and it felt about 5+, also one of the lower off bolts is not in far enough and the hanger moves, this needs to be replaced
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| pete_robins | My Secret Garden & Great Boreholes of Today | 7 | Sep 8 2008, 2:47 PM EDT by jonnyr | ||||
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Thread started: Aug 24 2008, 12:24 PM EDT
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MSG: Great little pitch Hosey, tough though, prob F7b.
GBoT: Also really good Jon, def worth a star, and the rock is nice and smooth. Shame you can traverse off right at the top (not that I did!). Felt more like F7a+ though, sorry Jon! Pete
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| adam06 | Skyline Buttress Level | 1 | Jul 22 2008, 3:10 PM EDT by alunallcock | ||||
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Thread started: Jul 22 2008, 6:43 AM EDT
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im gettin a bit bored of the sport routes with the names at the bottoms... and would like to get some more of the quarys trad done, but i cant get hold of a slate guide book since it went out of print. and i have done all the north wales rock ones in my capability. if i make a donation of £2.50 to the bolt fund will someone send me a copy of the pages on Skyline Buttress Level please? hear there is some really good trad there. my email is adamr4d@gmail.com
thanks adam
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| MarkBaggyRichards | 1066 LOWER OFF WARNING | 1 | Jul 2 2008, 6:15 PM EDT by MarkBaggyRichards | ||||
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Thread started: Jun 25 2008, 5:31 PM EDT
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the 1 lower off bolt actually moves in the hole and the hanger is not tight on the stud. I was not prepared to lower off.
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| MarkBaggyRichards | N E Spur | 2 | Jun 27 2008, 5:08 PM EDT by MarkBaggyRichards | ||||
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Thread started: Jun 25 2008, 5:42 PM EDT
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Any one got C Parkins e mail Just wondered if he would mind if we added a bolt to this route high up to make it more attractive plus a lower off
Cheers
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| MarkBaggyRichards | 1066 Grad | 3 | Jun 26 2008, 3:17 PM EDT by MarkBaggyRichards | ||||
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Thread started: Jun 25 2008, 5:33 PM EDT
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unless we did it wrong, but how do you do that ? this route did not seem 6b and compared to scarface claw which is given 6a+ this routes seems a lot easier we think. Any views ?
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| MarkBaggyRichards | scarface claw | 1 | Jun 25 2008, 6:11 PM EDT by phil.t | ||||
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Thread started: Jun 25 2008, 5:26 PM EDT
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This is a very good route but seems hard for 6a + the first move is tricky and the rest is sustained give it a few stars
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| MarkBaggyRichards | prunning the tube | 0 | Jun 25 2008, 5:36 PM EDT by MarkBaggyRichards | ||||
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Thread started: Jun 25 2008, 5:36 PM EDT
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anyone done this lately. Where does it go ? does it go up through the lichen and moss underneath and to right of tree ? or does it move up right from the second bolt more towards mad on metro ?
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| MikeRaine | Red Throat Diver | 6 | Jun 25 2008, 5:22 PM EDT by MarkBaggyRichards | ||||
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Thread started: May 14 2007, 3:22 PM EDT
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5c if you're over 6'
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| MikeRaine | Looning the Tube | 3 | Jun 25 2008, 5:17 PM EDT by MarkBaggyRichards | ||||
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Thread started: Jul 29 2007, 1:32 PM EDT
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Could be overgraded?
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| ksjs | mad on the metro lower off - extra ring needed | 0 | Jun 9 2008, 5:02 AM EDT by ksjs | ||||
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Thread started: Jun 9 2008, 5:02 AM EDT
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only has 1 bolt and ring at top which is new but still needs a backup.
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| dragondraig | Crazy Train | 1 | Jun 9 2008, 4:57 AM EDT by ksjs | ||||
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Thread started: Apr 5 2008, 2:56 AM EDT
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Great route, worth some stars too - I think it's closer to 6b+ than 6c
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| JonGodfrey | N gauge & the Sidings level | 1 | May 25 2008, 10:52 AM EDT by catrinthomas | ||||
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Thread started: Feb 12 2008, 7:45 PM EST
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Some awesome new lines, good effort. Sodor definitely deserving of ** status. tightened two bolts on Sodor yesterday, otherwise generally all bolts seemed OK. N gauge... did not do the line yesterday but noticed while another bunch were climbing it that the large flake to the right of the third hanger appears VERY LOOSE. Upon closer inspection, it is currently wedged in and wouldnt come away, but this is a situation which needs to be carefully observed, as it'll do some serious damage if it does come off.
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