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Location: Bus Stop Quarry
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| MikeRaine | Gnat Attack | 10 | Jul 4 2009, 6:19 AM EDT by guddays | ||||
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Thread started: Jul 29 2007, 5:24 AM EDT
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Noticed this is 5b in the selected climbs guide, surely it's 5C
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| phil.t | beltane | 0 | May 29 2009, 6:25 PM EDT by phil.t | ||||
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Thread started: May 29 2009, 6:25 PM EDT
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The new guide book suggests that the finish is somewhat easier than what has gone before. Dont be misled. The finishing moves are quite hard and somewhat precarious. The rumour is that the left hand finishing hold has blown since the first ascent. Its now only a poor mono or possible stack affair. It certainly felt a difficult finish after my successful redpoint tonight. Maybe this needs amending in the text before the guide comes into print
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| NickDavis | Padarn Car Park Quarry | 3 | Nov 3 2008, 7:38 AM EST by binkybonk | ||||
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Thread started: Oct 27 2008, 6:01 PM EDT
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Hello.
This crag is listed on UKClimbing: http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=1358 The description says there are six routes, of which only one is listed. Anyone know anything about the place? Worth a visit?
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| ksjs | wizz bang - very worthwhile | 0 | Jun 9 2008, 5:04 AM EDT by ksjs | ||||
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Thread started: Jun 9 2008, 5:04 AM EDT
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always walked past this and thought it looks interesting but a bit small. got on it yesterday though and i can completely recommend it: great, bouldery moves from start to finish. tricky, unobvious and very satisfying climbing.
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| ksjs | Raisin Frumpsnoot - extra bolt? | 0 | Jun 9 2008, 5:00 AM EDT by ksjs | ||||
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Thread started: Jun 9 2008, 5:00 AM EDT
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backed off this y'day as move to gain first bolt feels delicate / bold without gear and the landing not so great. better done with a clipstick or better still add an extra bolt to protect the start.
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| ClareM | Jenga | 0 | Dec 16 2007, 3:32 PM EST by ClareM | ||||
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Thread started: Dec 16 2007, 3:32 PM EST
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Climbed today as a trad route. It is a really nice corner climb that is well protected. Probably something like a Severe. The word on the street has it that the bolts where placed before this lovely line was revealed by fallen blocks. So you can take your pick, a nicely bolted F4 or a well protected S 4a (with a very convienient lower off!)
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| stevewong | Belsane | 7 | Sep 22 2007, 5:19 PM EDT by GroundUp | ||||
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Thread started: Sep 15 2007, 7:07 AM EDT
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Look, I know my fingers are getting older so holds feel smaller, but surely this route would be 7a+ even without the hard finishing sequence getting to and passing the final bolt runner. I've watched some strong climbers try this as well and none of them have flashed it, so either they are all off form or the grade is a bit harsh. How about 7b?
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| calummonkey | Scheherezade and Hawkeye | 1 | Jul 22 2007, 4:50 PM EDT by colinandsue | ||||
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Thread started: Jul 20 2007, 4:28 AM EDT
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Scheherezade seems harsh for its grade, really hard and technically sustained moves. Hawkeye is probably more of a F.5b although shorter people may find it a long reach, good route on sound rock though.
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| Ray_mondo | Bus Stop | 0 | Jul 19 2007, 4:04 PM EDT by Ray_mondo | ||||
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Thread started: Jul 19 2007, 4:04 PM EDT
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Thought MHisFofE was a good fun 6b. Even worth a star. Only one bolt with hanger on at L.O. Think stud of another one is there.
Mini Bus Stop F5+. Third bolt is awkward to clip even if nearly six foot - have to climb till level with it. For Freezer, don't try and go straight up but move right under overlap and then up. |
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| beccaw | mini bus stop grade | 2 | Jun 7 2007, 4:22 PM EDT by beccaw | ||||
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Thread started: Jun 7 2007, 2:15 PM EDT
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Tried to lead this the other day as it was graded 5+; had an epic reaching the third bolt from any position (below, above, to the side). Getting to lower off also felt quite hard. Felt it was much more like 6a+ especially if you are a little short!
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| ksjs | Geordie War Cry | 0 | May 28 2007, 8:29 AM EDT by ksjs | ||||
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Thread started: May 28 2007, 8:29 AM EDT
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im sure whether it was because this was my first slate sport route or because i found it testing yet managed it or because some of the moves are exquisite but whatever the reason, probably a mix of the above, i thought it superb with some brilliant sustained climbing. definitely worth a go!
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| dragondraig | Mini Bus Stop | 0 | May 26 2007, 1:24 PM EDT by dragondraig | ||||
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Thread started: May 26 2007, 1:24 PM EDT
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Good little route. Thought it was high end F6a though and really hard clip on 3rd bolt for the vertically challenged - the missis!
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| dringo | Lost routes on Rippled Slab? | 3 | Mar 20 2007, 3:26 PM EDT by dringo | ||||
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Thread started: Mar 18 2007, 12:31 PM EDT
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Routes like virgin on the ridiculous ansome of the easier lines have been lost to vegetataion. Should the slab be:
A: Totally recleaned and the routes re-equipped? B: A light clean to keep the established routes of Scarlet..., Massam..., meltdown and Gnat.. Clean. C: Left to return to nature?
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