Dali's HoleThis is a featured page

BOLT HANGERS AND LOWER OFF'S HAVE BEEN REMOVED!!!!!!!!!!!! Dali’s Hole (Holy, Holy, Holy Area)
PROBABLY BEST NOT TO CLIMB HERE UNTIL THE BMC HAVE SECURED ACCESS WITH FIRST HYDRO - PLEASE BE PATIENT AND CLIMB ELSEWHERE IN THE QUARRY.
DO NOT CLIMB OR DAMAGE THE FENCE!!!!!
Use the following link for a map of the 'spiral / round the back of the fence' access
http://maps.google.co.uk/maps/ms?msid=206243880791400744219.0004a7dffa652925269da&msa=0
To Donate:CLICK HERE!


Launching Pad E1. New Bolts. 09/06

Numbered routes correspond to attached topo (see bottom of page).

1. Le Gendre F6a+. New route starts right of At the Cost Of a Rope. 5 bolt runners to lower off.
FA Rob Spencer, Colin Goodey, Kath Goodey 01/06/07

2. Mon Amie.F5b New route right of Le Gendre starts above an old rusty peg-5bolts to lower off.
FAColin Goodey,Caroline Wigley 5/6/07


3. Tolerance F4c Left of Le Grandpere FA Colin Goodey,C Wigley 6/06/07


4. Le Grandpere F5c. New route to left of Emerald ****.4 bolts to LO
FA Colin Goodeyand Sue Goodey 31/5/07


5. Pour Tout le Monde F5c. Right of Le Grandpere.5 bolts to LO
FA Mike Simpkins, Chris Simpkins 12/6/


6. Kinder Sport F4b Left of Emerald **** FA Colin Goodey 23rd/5/07


7. Emerald **** F4a Right of Holy, Holy, Holy . New Bolts and Lower off. 10/06


8. La Grandmere F5a New route to right of Emerald **** -3 bolts to lower off
FA. Sue Goodey,andColin Goodey. 23/5/07.Quality route-popular already!

9. Le Petit Pois F6a New route on the black slab right of La Grandmere. 2 bolts to twin bolt lower off.
FA. P.Targett I.LLoyd-Jones 08/10/07


10. Telescopic Stem MasterV3. New Bolts and Lower off. 09/06

11. Aardman productions F5c. Takes the wall left of Tower of laughter. 4 bolts to a twin bolt lower off. F.A.
P.Targett. T.Hughes. S. Mcguiness.(2nd bolt replaced today 2/3/08 and the messy chain affair replaced too)

12. Tower of Laughter E1. New Bolts and Lower off. 09/06


13. Resurrection F5b/5c. Rising traverse from 2nd bolt on Le Gendre to the thirds bolts on the next two routes, finish up the last 4 meters of Pour Tout
le Monde. FA Gareth Buckley, Alec Folley (05/08/07)

14. Swing Time F5c/6a. Rising traverse starting at the first bolt on Pour Tout le Monde, clipping the second bolt on Le Grandpere and the 3rd and 4th on
tolerance, finish by clipping the last bolt on Mon aime and using the Le Gendre LO. FA Gareth Buckley, Alec Folley (05/08/07)

15. Binky Bonk Central. F4A. Cleaned line up slab left of LE PETIT POIS. 2 Bolts + lower off protect.
F.A.Julia Widjaya/Jim Kelly 2.06.2008.

16. My Wife's An Alien. F5B+* Great new line left of Binky Bonk Central. Climb the cleaned groove direct 3 bolts + lower off protect. F.A. Julia Widjaya/Jim
Kelly 15.06.2008

17. CAPTAIN SLOG. F4c. An "Enterprising" new line up the well cleaned groove left of Petit Pois. 3 BR's protect and shares the same lower-off as My Wife's
an Alien. F.A. Julia Widjaya/Jim Kelly 23.06.2008

18. SLATE ARRIVALS.F4a. A new line up right of Le Petit Pois. Direct follow the easy groove 2 Bolts + lower off protect.F.A Julia Widjaya/Jim Kelly
16.07.2008
SLATE ARRIVALS LEFT F5a This is an eliminate on the above route with some excellent and independant moves. It uses the same bolts as the above
route. Start as for Slate Arrivals and clip the 1st bolt. Make an awkward step lelt and continue up the left hand side of the slab. Clip the second bolt and
finish as for the original route. Charlie Jordan 17/10/08 I have improved the lower off.

19. LA FAMILLE. F4c+ New route right of La Grandmere filling the gap between that route and Binky Bonk.Very thin start leads past two bolts to easier
climbing and twin lower off.FA Colin and Sue Goodey 12/3/09.

20. DEPARTURE LOUNGE F3c. New route after extensive clearing of loose rock and vegetation off the 'none impressive line' of :Aliens Stole my..........
The climb which is ideal for children making their first lead,climbs the cleaned rock to right of Pour Tout Le Monde: Julia Widjaya,JimKelly & Colin Goodey.
16/03/09.

21. "ESCAPE FROM COLDBITZ" ,F6C+ **
Superb new route taking the vertical wall left of "Zambesi". Hard moves passing the initial overlap lead to a harder sequence of sidepulls on the steep wall
above. 5 BR's protect to bolt lower off. F.A. Lucian Cottle / Jim Kelly.

Dali's Hole (Slab by California Tunnel)
Slip Not F6a+ New route up the left hand side of this little slab 3 bolts to a lower off. FA Ian Lloyd-Jones 16/11/07
Why Knot? F6a+ New route up the right hand side of the slab, start as for Slip Not to the first bolt 2 further bolts lead to a lower off. FA Ian Lloyd-Jones 16/11/07


Dali’s Hole (Hidden Wall)
Minder E4. New bolts one replacing a peg and another between the 1st and 3rd was added and Lower off. 10/06
Her Indoors E3. New bolts one replacing a peg and another to protect loose easy ground at the top and Lower off. 10/06
Dali's Slab
This little buttress now has a bolt belay on top.
Medicine Show HVS. New Bolt. 3/07
When the Wind Blows E3. New Bolts one added to the top. 3/07

Dali’s Wall
First and Last E1. New bolt and Lower Off. 09/06
The Hemulin E2. New bolt. 09/06
Grandads rib E1. New bolt. 09/06 (Large detached block up and right where coy mistress used to be, although the resulting groove has been ascended)
Dali Mirror E2. New Bolt. 09/06



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MikeRaine Telescopic Stem Master 2 Jun 13 2010, 7:15 AM EDT by NickHarms
Thread started: Jul 28 2007, 2:33 PM EDT  Watch
Excellent moves, a little gem and well worth anyones time. Probably English 6a if your 6'2" like me and it's safe as houses if you can make the long reaches to clip the bolts. Could be scary for shorties, worth a star in my book
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calummonkey Why de-bolt Dali's? 4 Apr 16 2010, 11:22 AM EDT by aimaz
Thread started: Apr 13 2010, 1:15 PM EDT  Watch
I don't understand why Dali's hole has been de-bolted. I have climbed in the quarries ever since I started climbing. My first slate route was 'La Grandmere' the same day it had its first ascent and I've enjoyed Dali's hole ever since and have climbed all routes there apart from 'Lob Scouse'. Hundreds of other climbers have also enjoyed Dali's Hole for the number of easy, safe and unintimidating sport routes.

Access issues haven't chenged at all in the last few years (decades) despite what rumours suggest. Climbers have never been legally allowed to climb in the quarries and First Hydro have always had to put preventitive measures in place under the mines and quarries act and they also occasionally evict climbers, this has always happened and always will. First Hydro put the fence across Dali's Hole because it is seen legally as a 'reasonable' way of preventing people from going into the hole. I know that large numbers of people do tend to congregate around Dali's Hole and this is not helped by the fact that centre's use Dali's Hole as well. The obvious thing to do would be make Dali's Hole a taboo area for centre's to climb and ask climbers to avoid congregating there.

I also don't understand why one person has made the decission to de-bolt the hole. I don't know Ian and I don't want to make a personal attack but this seems to be an arrogant and small minded decision when the hole has been enjoyed by so many people and been a key stepping stone for climbers moving from climbing in a climbing wall to climbing or leading outside.

What is going to happen to the bolts now as well? Bolts are very expensive and I would at least hope that they are returned to the people who have paid for them and spent the time and effort cleaning the routes.

Thanks or reading my opinion on the matter,
Calum Muskett
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MikeRaine ROute left of Zambesi 15 Nov 4 2009, 6:07 AM EST by jonnyr
Thread started: Oct 5 2009, 3:25 PM EDT  Watch
Well done on getting this route done Jim, sorry we didn't do it sooner. Hope you don't give it an of-fence-ive name!!
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Adobe Portable Document Format Costa del Dali topo 500.pdf (Adobe Portable Document Format - 179k)
posted by GroundUp   Sep 26 2007, 10:43 AM EDT
Costa del Dali topo