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| ksjs | Alive and Kicking grade | 0 | Aug 3 2009, 4:24 AM EDT by ksjs | ||||
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Thread started: Aug 3 2009, 4:24 AM EDT
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getting a bit tired of saying the same thing on here: this is not a sport route. a fall from the crux wouldnt be nice. regardless of the outcome of a fall here, sport, its generally accepted, is where youre not thinking about fall consquences / cruxes are protected / any fall, if long, is safe. arguably all 3 criteria are missed here. also, the run out to the belay isnt consistent with sport. this 'giving trad routes sport grades' is really misleading. the route is E2 5b/c.
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| ksjs | Child's Play - thoughts on grade | 1 | Jun 22 2009, 6:32 PM EDT by chrisdavies | ||||
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Thread started: Jun 21 2009, 6:28 AM EDT
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i struggled on this the other day. i actually got quite annoyed by it: it gets 7a+ yet ive never seen a move like that on a 7a+. neither have i ever taken about 5 tries on a move on a 7a+ and still failed to do it. maybe i was missing something, maybe i had duff beta or maybe its just one of those moves thats ok when you get it / once youve done it. anyway, better to think of the grade as follows: 7a sport route with a UK 6c stopper move as the crux (preceded by a fairly tricky UK 6b move). these moves wouldnt be at all out of place on a Fr 7b+/7c sport route. mortals will struggle to onsight this...
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| ksjs | Y Gwaedlyd - grade? | 2 | Apr 16 2009, 5:45 AM EDT by ksjs | ||||
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Thread started: Apr 14 2009, 8:22 AM EDT
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i tried this y'day and got a total kicking. unless i missed something there is no way this is F6c. i got to 3rd bolt and tried just about everything but could i do the move - no sir! is there a trick? is it direct or do you perhaps go left and then back right or what?
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| andyhobson | Off The Beaten Track | 0 | Oct 18 2008, 9:37 AM EDT by andyhobson | ||||
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Thread started: Oct 18 2008, 9:37 AM EDT
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Surely not E3 or F6c? Felt very steady and with a sling on the little spike before the second bolt, more like F6a+/b with bolts right where you need them. Same grade as the Dervish? Hmm...
Excellent route though. |
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| ksjs | goose creature at F6c - get real! | 2 | Oct 18 2008, 9:33 AM EDT by andyhobson | ||||
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Thread started: Mar 31 2008, 6:22 AM EDT
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is someone seriously suggesting Goose Creature at F6c (see graded list above)? this is in no way a sport 6c route. im not commenting here on the difficulty of the climbing but rather the bolting. yes, the harder moves are protected but the others arent - this does not a sport route make.
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| cidernut | My thoughts on the graded list | 1 | Sep 21 2008, 5:52 PM EDT by cidernut | ||||
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Thread started: Sep 21 2008, 5:48 PM EDT
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M.I.L. Arete: Should probably be lower down the E1s. There's no noticeable 5b moves on it (unless you're meant to be totally on the slab at the start and ignoring all larger holds nearer the arete? but that seems silly), and sure it's a bit bold but you're unlikely to fall off, and it's escapable (except the top move) if you get worried. Gear is spaced and not amazing, although there's a bomber .3 camalot half way up. It's easier than Combat Rock anyway! Combat Rock: I agree this should be at the top of HVS or bottom of E1. Mental Lentils : I think this should be further down the HVSs. It was one of the first routes I did at this grade, and although tricky the bolts take the sting out of it. Above the line: This should possibly be higher up the HVSs. I did the bolted version (a friend soloed it) - HVS 4c is possibly right to solo (it gets easier the higher you get), but I wouldn't like to solo it myself, and I'd quite happily jump on a lot of the other HVSs. Zambesi and Seamstress look about right - well they seem about the right height up a list, but I haven't done a lot of the others. The only others I've done are Deceptive Dyke, U.B.L and Sad Man Who's Sane, but as noted they're sport routes so wouldn't like to compare them. They're easier than shown if anything.
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| ksjs | taken over by department c and where are my sensible shoes grades | 2 | Apr 29 2008, 1:23 PM EDT by ksjs | ||||
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Thread started: Apr 26 2008, 1:22 PM EDT
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i tried sensible shoes (reasonably fresh) last week and couldnt work out the crux so gave up - is this really 7a+ or did i miss something? different style of route i know but i onsighted geordie war cry so i should at least have been able to dog the moves on sensible shoes.
also, taken over by... is at the bottom of the 7as: this didnt seem that easy at 7a. admittedly i did this on the back of several attempts at sensible shoes and doing drowning man (superb route btw). is this really the easiest slate 7a?
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| climbingpixie | Psychotherapy | 1 | Feb 20 2008, 11:58 AM EST by ksjs | ||||
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Thread started: Aug 29 2007, 3:28 PM EDT
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Surely this is incorrectly graded at 6a. The slate guide and the North Wales Select guide both grade it at E2 5c and that seemed reasonable. Not done any other E2s so I don't know if it's positioned correctly in the graded list (although I would've thought it would be lower as it is well-protected by bolts and cruxy not sustained).
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| ILLJ | Brief Encounter | 4 | Apr 8 2007, 12:31 PM EDT by dringo | ||||
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Thread started: Apr 5 2007, 6:30 AM EDT
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Surely this is not E2 5c...I gave it HVS 5a....as did Iwan's first guidebook...it then went up to E2 5b in the 2nd guidebook. Anyone climbed it recently with the new bolts? What grade would you give it?
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| stevepearson | Men At Work | 1 | Apr 5 2007, 4:29 AM EDT by dringo | ||||
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Thread started: Apr 4 2007, 11:52 AM EDT
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Had a go at this a couple of months ago, and it was falling to pieces. There was a lot of serioisly loose rock!
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| drevil | graded | 1 | Mar 19 2007, 9:34 AM EDT by pete_robins | ||||
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Thread started: Mar 18 2007, 10:02 PM EDT
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Is Pas de Chevre really 7b+?, I thought it was piss. I must also be old because I thought Cystitis was E6 as well when I did it and that was about 18 years ago! Seem to remember Stiff Syd's Cap feeling hard for E6 because since the demise of the thread you can deck it off the crux. Wouldn't disagree with E6 for My Halo but it's pretty stiff for that grade.
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| Hoseyb | suspension of disbelief | 2 | Mar 19 2007, 3:37 AM EDT by dringo | ||||
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Thread started: Mar 17 2007, 5:41 PM EDT
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I went to rebolt this..
It appears to be on the brink of joining the quarry floor
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| drevil | Grades | 0 | Mar 18 2007, 10:10 PM EDT by drevil | ||||
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Thread started: Mar 18 2007, 10:10 PM EDT
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Should The Quarryman and Coeur De Lion not merit E8? Not many E7 leaders are going to flash all the pitches in one push on-sight.
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| Hoseyb | grades etc | 0 | Mar 18 2007, 3:43 PM EDT by Hoseyb | ||||
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Thread started: Mar 18 2007, 3:43 PM EDT
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the Burning felt harder to me than drowning man.
rock video is harder than gadaffi duck alice springs and golden shower have fallen down |
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