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NEW ROUTES (Since Guidebook Published)
The Sidings
Pete Frost, belayed by Dave Pearce added a (new?) line up the slab to the right of Side Line on 15 September 2012. Pointless (E1 5b?) starts beneath the lower-off of Side Line and goes directly up to finish with hands on the top of the slab, just to the right of the lower off, without touching the slab of 'N' Gauge. The lower part is protected(?) by a micro wire just at the edge of the 'N' Gauge slab, plus a hand-placed bird-beak and micro wire where the slab goes into an inverted V at half height. A dynamic move (for the vertically challenged) from there gains a jug and the first bolt. The technical crux is protected by the second bolt.
Plateau Slab
Colin and Sue Goodey have added three new routes to this magnificent sweep of excellent quality slate. The crag has been developed by The slate 'guru'ILJones.
'Colin's Arete' F5a takes the obvious clean atete on the L end of the slab
'Carpe Diam' F5b -the longest route on the slab which takes a natural line up a series of steep grooves to the lower off on the highest pinnacle(shared with 'Childhood Dreams')
'Plateau Corner' F5b/c takes the impressive corner on extreme R end of the slab(This route took a great deal of cleaning-vege and loose shale and will benefit from further use/cleaning.
PS:- I was there yesterday(thurs 23rd August) repeating and further cleaning,We climbed Ian's F6b route Childhood Dreams and my friend inadvertently left a new quick draw on one of the bolts.Please,if you go there,kindly rescue same and drop into V12 for Colin-thanks !
West Wall
The Rock Bottom Line F6b,F7a,F6b,F7b+,F7b
135m, 5 pitches. The longest fully bolted sport route in the UK a great adventure from the very bottom of Twll Mawr to the Top of the Quarryman wall.
Pitch 1 (30m)F6b Climbs the Slab in the corner with some bridging. Clip the high 9th bolt and carefully traverse right avoiding the scree ledge to a double bolt belay.
Pitch 2 (30m)F7a Takes the obvious crack and flake line, easy to start, with a hard move over a bulge near the top to a ledge and double bolt belay where Opening Gambit used to cross.
Pitch 3 (30m)F6b The slab / wall to a ledge at the foot of a short groove and possible belay ledge (2 bolts) continue up the arete past 3 bolts taking you to the 'Matilda Ledge' double bolt belay.
Pitch 4 (25m)F7b+ The immaculate green groove above beckons. A beginners Quarryman groove. 2 bolt belay below Wonderful World of Walt Disney.
Pitch 5 (20m)F7b Belay a few feet further right. Take the flake / crack system up the attractive bulging slab / wall. The thin crack doesn't take fingers very well. Crux is either a high step up right or left take your pick.
FA Ian Lloyd-Jones and Sion McGuinness 03/Oct/2011
Black Holes and Revelations F6b, F7a ** An entertaining 2 pitch slate adventure from the very bottom of the ‘Twll Mawr’ hole topping out on the viewing platform adjacent to the track. The route can be accessed through the Twll Mawr / Peregrine Wall Tunnels and walking down the scree slope to the bottom of the hole, or alternatively a multiple abseil if you have a spare rope. Start just left of ‘In the Line of Fire’ (left of Supermassive Black Hole) by an obvious and well bolted slanting groove below the hanging ladder. Pitch 1 -25m (6b) ‘The Wobbly Ladder Pitch’ - climb the bolted series of grooves to gain a small ledge on the main face level with the bottom of the hanging ladder. From a good foothold it is possible to launch / dyno / fly / fall rightwards to gain the ladder – a unique and fun move! The faint hearted i.e. those refusing to fly can gain the same point by traversing along a series of bore holes. Run up the ladder via 2 bolts to a bolt belay by the tunnel. Pitch 2 – 50m (7a) ‘the big pitch’ - head up towards the incredibly smooth wavy groove capped by a huge square chock stone (solid). Squirm up the frictionless groove and if successful carry on up over easier ground to gain the bottom of a square cut groove. The final groove proves trickier than it looks; bolt / thread belay on the viewing platform above. FA Ian Lloyd-Jones and Sion McGuinness (Pitch 1) 25/11/11 Note: Both pitches can be climbed separately due to the easily accessible bolt belay by the tunnel, which allows you to walk in or out if you’re not doing both pitches. The route should clean up well with time / wind / rain and traffic...
The Twll Mawr 'Sporting' Challenge - The following 4 routes in a day as suggested by SA Chris on UK Bouldering...
Black Holes and Revelations F6b, F7a - 75 metres
Supermassive Black Hole F7a, F7a - 75 metres
Black Hole Sun F7a+, F7a, F7a - 75 metres
The Rock Bottom Line F6b, F7a, F6b,F7b+, F7b - 135 metres
A total of 360 metres of F7 climbing in a day.....
The Twll Mawr 'Sporting' Challenge - The following 4 routes in a day as suggested by SA Chris on UK Bouldering...
Black Holes and Revelations F6b, F7a - 75 metres
Supermassive Black Hole F7a, F7a - 75 metres
Black Hole Sun F7a+, F7a, F7a - 75 metres
The Rock Bottom Line F6b, F7a, F6b,F7b+, F7b - 135 metres
A total of 360 metres of F7 climbing in a day.....
GIDEON
Los Alamos F6c
Left of mosquito on the Gideon terrace. Climb the wall passing two bolts. It requires a long reach to start the hard bit.
FA Phil Targett and Tony Hughes 5/Nov/2011
Lancaster bomber HVS 5b
Takes the striking vertical crackline midway along the first wall. Very well protected. Belay on the railway track over on the right. Descend as for Tall boy.
FA Phil Targett and Nic Sharpe Sept/2011
Tall boy Fr 6c
A good route up the wall right of Lancaster bomber passing four bolts. Belay on the railway sleeper and walk off to the right (facing out) and carefully down the scree slope.
FA Phil Targett and Tony Hughes 19/Nov/2011
The Ghettysberg address Fr 6c
A nice line with good moves. Climb the short open corner to the right of Tall boy utilising a couple of long reaches and an odd move in the middle. Three bolts to a lower off.
FA Phil Targett and Tony Huges 27/Nov/2011
Rognon
Abbatoir Blues the Red Right Hand Variant
Dalis Wall Area - Dalis Dolerite Boulder Traverses right when the 2nd bolt is just below your knees to gain the red groove, which is taken to the top. I climbed up to the 3rd bolt first, for added security before reversing, probably giving an overall E2 6a, those with more to prove can clip the 3rd bolt later from the groove to get the E4 tick.
Australia - Alice Springs Level
Celtic Blood 20m F6a *
Climbs the obvious groove to the right of 'Men of Leisure' 8 bolts lead the way past some tricky climbing to a steepening and some interesting quartzy holds in the dolerite. A rock over out to the left will hopefully gain the lower off above.
First Ascent by Celt Lloyd-Jones (Aged 9), Ray Wood (Age Unknown), Ian Lloyd-Jones (Feeling as Old as the Quarry itself) 27/11/11
No Feart of the Boaby F6b+ ** 18m. A nice technical climb between Men of Leisure and Celtic Blood. 8 bolts to a lower off.
Colin Struthers , Mark Hounslea 29/Apr/2012
Monkey Bar Area (drytool)
The Deerhunter M7
Start in the short corner to the left of the tunnel. Fairly straight-forward but sustained climbing leads to a more technical and powerful crux between the last two bolts. Take a quick draw for the chains as the in-situ locking 'biner is hard to open with one hand. 6 bolts FA Torquil Bennett 9/10/11
Monkey-Bar Kid M6+
Start on the ledge to the left of The Deerhunter. Good hooks, no big reaches, few hand changes and close bolts make this about as easy as a route on this wall will get. Cunning axe-work will even reward you with a hands free rest when you're standing in the shot-hole. 6 bolts. FA Torquil Bennett 6/12/11
Australia - Alice Springs Level
Celtic Blood 20m F6a *
Climbs the obvious groove to the right of 'Men of Leisure' 8 bolts lead the way past some tricky climbing to a steepening and some interesting quartzy holds in the dolerite. A rock over out to the left will hopefully gain the lower off above.
First Ascent by Celt Lloyd-Jones (Aged 9), Ray Wood (Age Unknown), Ian Lloyd-Jones (Feeling as Old as the Quarry itself) 27/11/11
No Feart of the Boaby F6b+ ** 18m. A nice technical climb between Men of Leisure and Celtic Blood. 8 bolts to a lower off.
Colin Struthers , Mark Hounslea 29/Apr/2012
Monkey Bar Area (drytool)
The Deerhunter M7
Start in the short corner to the left of the tunnel. Fairly straight-forward but sustained climbing leads to a more technical and powerful crux between the last two bolts. Take a quick draw for the chains as the in-situ locking 'biner is hard to open with one hand. 6 bolts FA Torquil Bennett 9/10/11
Monkey-Bar Kid M6+
Start on the ledge to the left of The Deerhunter. Good hooks, no big reaches, few hand changes and close bolts make this about as easy as a route on this wall will get. Cunning axe-work will even reward you with a hands free rest when you're standing in the shot-hole. 6 bolts. FA Torquil Bennett 6/12/11
Rastamouse M7+
Climb the left hand corner of the Ibex wall.Tiny hooks, wide crack stein-pulls, micro-torques and precision footwork all come together to make an excellent technical drytool line. 4 Bolts. FA Torquil Bennett 28/12/11
This is the obvious overhanging dolerite boulder right of Dalis wall.
Carry on up the Kyber pass V2 FA Phil Targett 22.12.11
Stand start at the left hand side. Use the obvious lowish hold for the left and a higher pinch. Feet on the block at the back. Up for the triangular pocket and straight to the top.
Rainbow Walls Lower
Peppermint Tower Area
(an easy 10 min walk from the Nant Peris side of the Quarry)
Never Never Land
'Over There Land' - (Area on the opposite side of the track to Never Never Land)
Cavity Wall F7c ** 20m. Excellent and sustained slate pocket pulling with a couple of really cool rock overs. Maybe tricky for the onsight but with its ease of access and number of bolts would be a good redpoint project once the sequences are sussed. Follow the line of 9 bolts to a lower off on the wall on the opposite side of the track to Never Never Land.
FA Ian Lloyd-Jones 14/Jun/2012 N
Note: I've been told this is probably F7c which is what I first thought..though it did feel like a F7a+ on the redpoint....
Easy for Caterpillars F7a 12m Climbs the concave slab on the far right of the ‘Over There Land’ wall, (to the right of Cavity Wall). Easy to start, with a good short technical crux in the middle, followed by some dynamic / long reaches. 4 bolts to a lower off. FA Ian Lloyd-Jones 25/6/12 Carry on campusing V4 FA Phil Targett 22.12.11
Start as for the previous problem and campus horizontally rightwards along the big slopers.
Rainbow Walls Lower
Peppermint Tower Area
(an easy 10 min walk from the Nant Peris side of the Quarry)
Honorary Limestone 22m ** F7a The bolted 'Dolerite' line to the right of 'Jugs Mawr'. Steep climbing via some great pockets and slots up to the 5th bolt where a cruxy traverse leftwards along the horizontal crack leads to better holds. Precarious / airy moves back rightwards will hopefully gain the 6th clip; continue upwards with a few more awkward moves to gain a huge jug, climb more easily to the lower off. Definitely a route that wants to be a limestone sport route! FA Ian Lloyd-Jones 22 /3/12
Chinook Arete 23m ** F7a Climbs the bolted square cut arete to the right of 'Midnight Drives'. If you enjoyed G'Day Arete you will probably enjoy this one, some cool moves and probably a grade harder. FA Ian Lloyd-Jones 22 /3/12
'Plateau Slab' (The attractive slab opposite Peppermint Tower)
Follow this Link for a PDF topo of The Plateau Slab.... http://dmmclimbing.com/news/2012/05/more-new-routes-on-slate/
Circus Skills F6a 12m. Climbs a zig zagging line on the left side of the 'Plateau Slab' (just right of the obvious arete). Rock over up and rightwards past the final (5th) bolt to gain the ledge and lower off above. FA Tesni Lloyd-Jones (aged 12) and Celt Lloyd-Jones (aged 9) Both Lead 05/May/2012
Monster Munch F6c+ * 12m Climbs the thin seam between Circus Skills and White Tiger. Short but continuously interesting with a thin crux at the top, for the full tick finish direct on thin crimps and smears.
FA Ian Lloyd-Jones, Ray Wood, Kieran Forrest(aged 11) 13/May/2012
White Tiger F6a * 14m. Climbs the 2nd thin seam on the 'Plateau Slab’ 5 bolts lead the way to a lower off.
FA Celt Lloyd-Jones (aged 9) and Ian Lloyd-Jones 05/May/2012
Slate Ninja F6a * 14m. Climbs the line of 5 petzl bolts to the right of White Tiger, lower off. Celt Lloyd-Jones (aged 9) and Ian Lloyd-Jones 05/May/2012
FA Celt Lloyd-Jones (aged 9) and Ian Lloyd-Jones 05/May/2012
Celtic Warrior F6a *14m. Climbs the next line of weakness to the right of Slate Ninja on the 'Plateau Slab', 5 bolts to a lower off.
FA Celt Lloyd-Jones (aged 9) and Tesni Lloyd-Jones (age 12) 05/May/2012
Magic Carpet F5 14m Follow the obvious line of weakness to the right of Celtic Warrior, 5 bolts to a lower off.
FA Celt Lloyd-Jones (age 9) and Tesni Lloyd-Jones (age 12) Both Lead 05/May/2012
Teenage Dreams F6b **18m Climbs to the highest point on the 'Plateau Slab' start to the right of Magic Carpet on the far right hand side of the slab. Some nice moves in the centre of the slab with an easier finish. Lower off bolts on the final pinnacle.
FA Tesni Lloyd-Jones (aged 13) and Kieran Forrest (aged 11) 13/May/2012
Pick & Mix 6a 40m Start at the bottom left handside of Plateau Slab. Climb the first 3 bolts of 'Circus Skills', then fire up diagonally right until you reach the highest point of the slab and lower-off of 'Carp Diem' & 'Teenage Dreams'. Take plenty of quickdraws. Abseil off.
Chinook Arete 23m ** F7a Climbs the bolted square cut arete to the right of 'Midnight Drives'. If you enjoyed G'Day Arete you will probably enjoy this one, some cool moves and probably a grade harder. FA Ian Lloyd-Jones 22 /3/12
'Plateau Slab' (The attractive slab opposite Peppermint Tower)
Follow this Link for a PDF topo of The Plateau Slab.... http://dmmclimbing.com/news/2012/05/more-new-routes-on-slate/
Circus Skills F6a 12m. Climbs a zig zagging line on the left side of the 'Plateau Slab' (just right of the obvious arete). Rock over up and rightwards past the final (5th) bolt to gain the ledge and lower off above. FA Tesni Lloyd-Jones (aged 12) and Celt Lloyd-Jones (aged 9) Both Lead 05/May/2012
Monster Munch F6c+ * 12m Climbs the thin seam between Circus Skills and White Tiger. Short but continuously interesting with a thin crux at the top, for the full tick finish direct on thin crimps and smears.
FA Ian Lloyd-Jones, Ray Wood, Kieran Forrest(aged 11) 13/May/2012
White Tiger F6a * 14m. Climbs the 2nd thin seam on the 'Plateau Slab’ 5 bolts lead the way to a lower off.
FA Celt Lloyd-Jones (aged 9) and Ian Lloyd-Jones 05/May/2012
Slate Ninja F6a * 14m. Climbs the line of 5 petzl bolts to the right of White Tiger, lower off. Celt Lloyd-Jones (aged 9) and Ian Lloyd-Jones 05/May/2012
FA Celt Lloyd-Jones (aged 9) and Ian Lloyd-Jones 05/May/2012
Celtic Warrior F6a *14m. Climbs the next line of weakness to the right of Slate Ninja on the 'Plateau Slab', 5 bolts to a lower off.
FA Celt Lloyd-Jones (aged 9) and Tesni Lloyd-Jones (age 12) 05/May/2012
Magic Carpet F5 14m Follow the obvious line of weakness to the right of Celtic Warrior, 5 bolts to a lower off.
FA Celt Lloyd-Jones (age 9) and Tesni Lloyd-Jones (age 12) Both Lead 05/May/2012
Teenage Dreams F6b **18m Climbs to the highest point on the 'Plateau Slab' start to the right of Magic Carpet on the far right hand side of the slab. Some nice moves in the centre of the slab with an easier finish. Lower off bolts on the final pinnacle.
FA Tesni Lloyd-Jones (aged 13) and Kieran Forrest (aged 11) 13/May/2012
Pick & Mix 6a 40m Start at the bottom left handside of Plateau Slab. Climb the first 3 bolts of 'Circus Skills', then fire up diagonally right until you reach the highest point of the slab and lower-off of 'Carp Diem' & 'Teenage Dreams'. Take plenty of quickdraws. Abseil off.
FA - Ian Martin & Clare Mason 23/10/12
1981 VS 5a 6m. Left of the Plateau Slab is a clean finger crack. Good gear and a couple of nice moves. Trad belay, then can walk right to the Plateau Slab lower off's.. F.A Clare Mason and Dan Bright. 19/05/12
Strawberry Jam E2 5c * 22m
Climbs the obvious large crack a few meters right of 'Come Inside'.
A unnerving start past a large dangerous block (well tested) gives access to a brilliant jamming and lay-backing up the top hand crack.
Takes lots of cams. Double up on mediums, triple up if your a wimp
"HELP!" (it's raining jugs) XS? 5c 22m
Climb 'Strawberry Jam' past the dangerous block and place the last of your protection. Then exit right up the narrow ramp running it out to the top. This is very loose, mostly at the top although the hold are jugs.
7/7/12 Dan Ely, Dan Hale
1981 VS 5a 6m. Left of the Plateau Slab is a clean finger crack. Good gear and a couple of nice moves. Trad belay, then can walk right to the Plateau Slab lower off's.. F.A Clare Mason and Dan Bright. 19/05/12
Strawberry Jam E2 5c * 22m
Climbs the obvious large crack a few meters right of 'Come Inside'.
A unnerving start past a large dangerous block (well tested) gives access to a brilliant jamming and lay-backing up the top hand crack.
Takes lots of cams. Double up on mediums, triple up if your a wimp
"HELP!" (it's raining jugs) XS? 5c 22m
Climb 'Strawberry Jam' past the dangerous block and place the last of your protection. Then exit right up the narrow ramp running it out to the top. This is very loose, mostly at the top although the hold are jugs.
7/7/12 Dan Ely, Dan Hale
Never Never Land
'Over There Land' - (Area on the opposite side of the track to Never Never Land)
Cavity Wall F7c ** 20m. Excellent and sustained slate pocket pulling with a couple of really cool rock overs. Maybe tricky for the onsight but with its ease of access and number of bolts would be a good redpoint project once the sequences are sussed. Follow the line of 9 bolts to a lower off on the wall on the opposite side of the track to Never Never Land.
FA Ian Lloyd-Jones 14/Jun/2012 N
Note: I've been told this is probably F7c which is what I first thought..though it did feel like a F7a+ on the redpoint....
Australia - Gorbals Level
Mynd am Aur F7a * 15m Climbs the thin slab via a large jug to the left of Slab Rog, flexibility will help with this one! 5 bolts to a lower off.FA Tesni Lloyd-Jones (aged 13) and Ian Lloyd-Jones 27/7/12
The Olympic Torch F6b+** 15m Climbs the slanting line between Slab Rog and The Shining. Reasonably sustained and off balance climbing.5 Bolts + the last clip of Slab Rog to shared lower off. FA Celt Lloyd-Jones (aged 10) Tesni Lloyd-Jones (aged 13) and Ian Lloyd-Jones 27/7/12
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Latest page update: made by ClareM
, Oct 23 2012, 2:06 PM EDT
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