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Location: Never Never Land
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| calummonkey | Rockfall in Never Never Land area | 3 | Oct 30 2009, 7:18 PM EDT by jonnyr | ||||
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Thread started: Oct 22 2009, 4:07 PM EDT
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There has been a big rockfall up to the right of 'Obsession', the ground is well over a metre higher. Although the rockfall hasn't affected 'Obsession' but my climb 'The Finger Slicer' has almost totally fallen down but for the first few metre, and it didn't get a 2nd ascent ;.), I'll take the opportunity to say that it was actually several grades harder than E3 and I was actually sandbagging! Some good boulder problems have also been buried in the rockfall.
'Ghengis' is probably a gnarly E5 now after the flakey crack thing where the peg and gear placements were has totally fallen down. The crux is now a solo proposition unless a side runner is used on the 2nd bolt of 'Short Stories' is clipped (but that's cheating!). I also think it's worth pointing out that 'Machine in the Ghost' is actually E6 6b and not E4 6a, and I'm not the only one that thinks that! Also climbed a great new route here 'Dark and Scary Stories' at E5 6b and really soft for the grade, get out and repeat it!
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| colinandsue | Project in bay to right of the Ghengis and Andy pandy. | 3 | Jun 11 2009, 5:54 PM EDT by chrisdavies | ||||
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Thread started: Apr 24 2009, 3:03 PM EDT
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I have over the last several moths been trying a blocky wall in this area (I have to say on a rope) and to day I thought I would equip it and place lower off,However,I notice chalk on most of the Big flat blocky holds-so someone has either done it but not written it up or are working it.This is fine by me but please let me know if you wish to continue and finish the route -in which case I shall abandon my efforts.
All good wishes. Colin.
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| chrisdavies | NEW ROUTE- NEVER NEVER LAND | 1 | Jun 5 2009, 5:15 PM EDT by chrisdavies | ||||
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Thread started: May 30 2009, 1:09 PM EDT
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"BACK IN THE SADDLE" (6B) 20m *
Start as for tomb raider, after second bolt, go up and left following a line of three more bolts, to a double bolt lower off . really good climbing , tricky move by the third bolt! firest ascent, C.Davies, Ian Loyd Jones, 28/05/09 p.s (first ascent was done without the fourth bolt in place, but i will be putting it in shortly, just to keep it a bit more sporty!)
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| chrisdavies | bolt placement | 3 | Apr 27 2009, 6:14 AM EDT by dragondraig | ||||
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Thread started: Apr 15 2009, 6:54 PM EDT
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on some of the routes that i have repeated in the never never land area recently, i have noticed that some bolt placements are in areas of poor or hollow rock, when more solid rock is available very close by, the belay on pitch one of Tomb Raider is a good example, if you tap the rock around the bolts it sounds hollow, i appreciate some pieces of rock become more hollow with time and weather.
when placeing bolts on slate, try and find the largest and most solid area of rock available. p.s. this is not ment as me having a go , but as a reminder to anybody who may be thinking of new routing on the slate, and is not aware of how brittle and hollow slate can be, hope this may be of use!
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| chrisdavies | gargoyle | 2 | Apr 17 2009, 4:17 PM EDT by chrisdavies | ||||
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Thread started: Apr 15 2009, 6:34 PM EDT
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grade of route seems fair, a bit strange to have the runout to the last bolt after the convienience of the other bolts, not that it`s a long runout, but should you slip of the last few moves, you days of fatherhood, or motherhood, could be severely hamperd!
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| martin_k | Obsession | 15 | Sep 15 2008, 8:34 AM EDT by colinandsue | ||||
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Thread started: Aug 20 2008, 11:32 AM EDT
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Closer to 6a+ and 5b for the pitches. Didn't find any fingerlocks and thought the moves to the layback crack straightforward. The top pitch is ok. Didn't find a flying arete or a mantleshelf finish, but there you go.
Too many bolts to be memorable in any way.
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| kathg | Gargoyle | 0 | Aug 22 2008, 6:27 PM EDT by kathg | ||||
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Thread started: Aug 22 2008, 6:27 PM EDT
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Feedback seems to be that this route is more like 6a+. Also, a large block that I didn t like the look of and climbed around has now been kicked off - thanks for that!
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| Smegor | State of the Heart | 17 | Aug 20 2008, 10:15 AM EDT by MarkBaggyRichards | ||||
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Thread started: May 19 2008, 3:45 PM EDT
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Hi, I was just curious why the route seems to be very run out after the crux move over the roof. THere is about a 4 meter gap from the crux bolt to the next one, and although easyer ground, its not 'a stroll in the park', after the last bolt it is a fairly long way to the lower off too.
IS it deliberately like that? WOuld people object to sticking another bolt in there, as the concequence of a fall from above the crux roof would be pretty damn serious, and could be as far as about 30-40 foot if you fell going for the next bolt. JUst a thought CHeers
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| mickyg10 | Steps of Escher | 4 | Jul 8 2008, 5:45 PM EDT by phil.t | ||||
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Thread started: Jun 16 2008, 5:24 PM EDT
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Phil Targett would you like to send your climb into ukclimbing.com? fantastic route
out of
found this valuable.
Do you find this valuable?
Keyword tags:
steps of escher
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| MikeRaine | Dyke Rider | 1 | Jul 8 2008, 3:27 PM EDT by thereal-Sibeal | ||||
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Thread started: Jul 6 2008, 4:01 PM EDT
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Pleasant enought but really not two stars I'm afraid
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| MarkBaggyRichards | Hawkeye | 2 | Jun 13 2008, 3:35 PM EDT by MarkBaggyRichards | ||||
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Thread started: Jun 12 2008, 5:09 PM EDT
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Climbed this the other night. Not sure its 6a, does not feel like it, feels easier. What do others think. Also its not a retro bolt of breaking wind as it climbs very little of that route
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| MikeRaine | Yossarian | 2 | Jun 3 2008, 5:55 AM EDT by MikeRaine | ||||
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Thread started: Jun 2 2008, 5:07 PM EDT
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A fine route, well done, really enjoyed it. Grade right, well bolted, didn't feel the need for any extra ones. Probably two stars. Are you going to do the other lines in this area?
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| JonGodfrey | The slab below Never Never Land | 8 | May 30 2008, 4:09 AM EDT by MrCake | ||||
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Thread started: Dec 12 2007, 9:36 AM EST
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Any one know of any reason why this clean slab (in the hole below NNL, facing in the same direction) has never been done (or recorded if it has) other than the fact its quite short? There looks to be a few good lines up it. Going to go and have a better look at it today but at quick glance yesterday it seemed like a feasible (short) project. Given its vicinity to NNL slab and 362, perhaps 'lost boys slab' would be appropriate if developed.
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| calummonkey | Shock The Monkey | 6 | Apr 12 2008, 2:47 PM EDT by dringo | ||||
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Thread started: Jul 25 2007, 2:53 PM EDT
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Great route on good clean and solid slate. The first bolt has come off and the others are also coming off. The route either needs to be re-bolted or de-bolted as natural protection is quite good. The start seeps after bad weather.
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| dringo | 362 and Tomb Raider Grades? | 4 | Nov 18 2007, 1:20 PM EST by colinandsue | ||||
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Thread started: Nov 12 2007, 3:49 PM EST
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These are great routes, climbed them the other week. I would however not grade any pitch over F5c.
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| mzchambers | Never Never Land - Fresh Air | 0 | Oct 15 2007, 11:40 AM EDT by mzchambers | ||||
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Thread started: Oct 15 2007, 11:40 AM EDT
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this is a great route. good for the easey going that are looking for samething haeder.
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| polacoed | Never Never Land - Hawkeye | 6 | Sep 11 2007, 4:37 PM EDT by ILLJ | ||||
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Thread started: Jul 23 2007, 4:25 PM EDT
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Yrm.....i was there on sunday and about to lead the route after my friend. However by the time he got to the top a HUGE boulder came loose. i started to leg it, still holding my partner on belay of course. see my flickr for pictures. enlarge tem to get the full scale!! be careful when bolting new routes i say.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/paulawilliams/
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| chrisandmike | Never Never Land - Fresh Air | 1 | Jul 24 2007, 5:03 PM EDT by dringo | ||||
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Thread started: Jul 24 2007, 3:45 AM EDT
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Definitely the best of the recently done moderate climbs.
A real good(e)y
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| polacoed | Never Never Land - Fresh Air | 0 | Jul 23 2007, 4:31 PM EDT by polacoed | ||||
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Thread started: Jul 23 2007, 4:31 PM EDT
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ps....well done with this route. cracker, really enjoyed it. i love crimping i do!! bring on more of these types and grades. i like the new bolted routes, gives an opportunity for the none E squad a chance to climb on slate....but with care of course after my first experience on Hawkeye
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| dringo | Igan Ogam | 2 | Jun 5 2007, 6:18 AM EDT by pete_robins | ||||
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Thread started: Jun 4 2007, 11:35 AM EDT
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Hi Ian
Great effort on the re-equipping. On the bolts that effected the top of Never never land, having read an old article from the time of the development of the quarries, there was a reference to three pegs being placed in the top of Never never land to protect the first ascent, these were probably removed by the FA after the ascent for another project, as such I personally don't feel the bolts on Igam Ogam effect the top of the Never never land, despite not climbing it without, I feel the route still warrants E5 with them, as you still have to to the crux moves above that spike. What do others think? Should the bolts be removed or should we update the guide point out the top was previously pegged? Would it be E6 without? Would people then traverse way off route to clip those now on the igam ogam?
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