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Rainbow Walls
Gerbil Abuse Area
Gerbil Abuse F6c+. Re-bolted 02/07
Vermin on the Rediculous F7b. Re-bolted. 02/07
Spleenal Flick E3 6b. [F6c+?] Re-equipped one bolt added at the top, the rock at the bottom is a little loose. 03/07
Chitra F7c+. Re- bolted. 03/07
Cig-Arete level
Over Taken By Department C F6a New Route, start just left of Taken Over By Department C. Climbs the thin green Dolerite Vein to gain the hanging slab, follow the hairline crack to the lower off . 8 Bolts lead the way. FA Ian Lloyd-Jones, John Roberts and Peter White 15/6/08
Taken Over By Department C F7a. Re-bolted. 03/07.
Taken Over By Department C F7a. Re-bolted. 03/07.
Slight of Hand F6c. Three bolts to lower off. 3/07
Nik-Arete F6b+. New Route. 25/03/07.
Slab and arete left of Cig-Arete.
F.A: Pete Robins, Mark Reeves, (+one other too ashamed to admit involvement in such a **** route, come on Adam Wainright, own up!)
Waiting on an Angel E1 5b. The obvious groove left by massive rockfall left of Cig-arete. one bolt and a few small wires. 03/07.
Slab and arete left of Cig-Arete.
F.A: Pete Robins, Mark Reeves, (+one other too ashamed to admit involvement in such a **** route, come on Adam Wainright, own up!)
Waiting on an Angel E1 5b. The obvious groove left by massive rockfall left of Cig-arete. one bolt and a few small wires. 03/07.
Cig-Arete F7b. New bolts one added to stop a ground fall after a rockfall raised the level of the floor and lower off. 09/06.
Where are my Sensible Shoes F7a+. New bolts equipped as a sports route and lower off. 10/06 (Jules Littlefair reports: "one of the anchor bolts on Sensible Shoes is loose (the whole bolt, not just the hanger). Obviously there are 4 others to choose from." May 2012)
Where are my Sensible Shoes Direct F7a+
Follow Where are my Sensible Shoes to the break by the final bolt. Surmount the stupendous summit headwall direct via a hold.
FA. Adam Wainwright (unseconded) 25/03/07
Where are my Sensible Shoes Direct F7a+
Follow Where are my Sensible Shoes to the break by the final bolt. Surmount the stupendous summit headwall direct via a hold.
FA. Adam Wainwright (unseconded) 25/03/07
Gwion's Groove F6a. clip 1st bolt on Sensible Shoes and follow the bolts into drowning man. 3/07.
F.A: Mark Dicken, Sam Dicken.
F.A: Mark Dicken, Sam Dicken.
Drowning Man F6b. New bolts equipped as a sports route and Lower off. 10/06
Coming up for Air F7a+. Re-bolted (06/2007)
Unchain my Bidoobies vs, appears to actually be Emerald Eyes hs, a previous guidebook mistake. Could probably do with a lower off, as its good, but getting down isn't.
Concorde Dawn. F8a. New route
Up the black wall right Emeral Eyes etc.
F.A: Rob Murfin [2006]
Jon's Project!To the right of Concorde Dawn the obvious partially cleaned line with single lower off anchor and one bolt half way down. Cheers, Jon R 10/04/11
Coming up for Air F7a+. Re-bolted (06/2007)
Unchain my Bidoobies vs, appears to actually be Emerald Eyes hs, a previous guidebook mistake. Could probably do with a lower off, as its good, but getting down isn't.
Concorde Dawn. F8a. New route
Up the black wall right Emeral Eyes etc.
F.A: Rob Murfin [2006]
Jon's Project!To the right of Concorde Dawn the obvious partially cleaned line with single lower off anchor and one bolt half way down. Cheers, Jon R 10/04/11
Mau Mau Level
Lots of routes have fallen down on Terry's Wall and Sunk Without Trace. The rest of the wall left of Promontory fell down recently - very impressive!
The Dark Destroyer F7c+ Rebolted 10/07. Old bolts need removing. NB: Hold on lower crux broke leaving painful two finger crimp, now a lot harder, V7/8ish for shorties..? JR 04/11
True Clip F7b+. New Bolts and lower off. 09/06
The Dark Destroyer F7c+ Rebolted 10/07. Old bolts need removing. NB: Hold on lower crux broke leaving painful two finger crimp, now a lot harder, V7/8ish for shorties..? JR 04/11
True Clip F7b+. New Bolts and lower off. 09/06
Spong (Is good for you) F7c. All bolts other than the first have been replaced and a lower off installed. 09/06
L'Allumette F6c+ Re-bolted. 04/07
Octopussy's Garden - Walrus Wipeout. The shared lower-off of all four routes replaced. 06/07.
Fruity Pear in a Veg Shop Romp. Worth E6. Lower-off added to avoid the most hideous top-out in the quarries.
Fruity Pear Gets Just Deserts E4. Re-bolted. 06/07.
The following routes are on the right end of the Mau Mau Level (a.k.a. The Kennals), but not accessible from the main bit. Access is from up the scree behined Pigs in Space.
Rowan F7c
New route up obvious rightward-facing groove, directly above the winding house on the level below.
F.A. Pete Robins, Ben Bransby [18.04.07]
The New Slatesman F8b 15m
New route up obvious arete right of Rowan.
F.A: Pete Robins (25/02/08)
Doggy-style F7c 12m.
New route up steep wall 20m right of Rowan. It goes up an immaculate holdless corner to a bibivy-ledge then bouldery headwall above.
F.A: Pete Robins [06.06.07]
L'Allumette F6c+ Re-bolted. 04/07
Octopussy's Garden - Walrus Wipeout. The shared lower-off of all four routes replaced. 06/07.
Fruity Pear in a Veg Shop Romp. Worth E6. Lower-off added to avoid the most hideous top-out in the quarries.
Fruity Pear Gets Just Deserts E4. Re-bolted. 06/07.
The following routes are on the right end of the Mau Mau Level (a.k.a. The Kennals), but not accessible from the main bit. Access is from up the scree behined Pigs in Space.
Rowan F7c
New route up obvious rightward-facing groove, directly above the winding house on the level below.
F.A. Pete Robins, Ben Bransby [18.04.07]
The New Slatesman F8b 15m
New route up obvious arete right of Rowan.
F.A: Pete Robins (25/02/08)
Doggy-style F7c 12m.
New route up steep wall 20m right of Rowan. It goes up an immaculate holdless corner to a bibivy-ledge then bouldery headwall above.
F.A: Pete Robins [06.06.07]
The Manatese Level
The Manatese E4 6a. Lower-off and bolt added on the headwall above the flake so that you get an extra nice finish and don't have to lower-off tat at the end of the flake.
El Migitio Fagio Rebolted 10/07.
Paradise Lost. New bolts in upper half. Dodgy rock at bottom. Can be climbed via an indirect but solid start up the dolerite on the left at about E2 5c.
The Dark Half F7c+. Mostly new bolts and lower-off.
Heatseeker F7c. Bolts replaced. 12/.06 Bolts need tightening and crux bolt needs replacing, will do ASAP. JR 04/11
Y Rybelwr E4 6a lower section has fallen down leaving behind a really good smooth V groove which is still climbable at a similar grade but devoid of gear (you can still see the rusty peg scar higer up) Probably needs to be retrobolted.
El Migitio Fagio Rebolted 10/07.
Paradise Lost. New bolts in upper half. Dodgy rock at bottom. Can be climbed via an indirect but solid start up the dolerite on the left at about E2 5c.
The Dark Half F7c+. Mostly new bolts and lower-off.
Heatseeker F7c. Bolts replaced. 12/.06 Bolts need tightening and crux bolt needs replacing, will do ASAP. JR 04/11
Y Rybelwr E4 6a lower section has fallen down leaving behind a really good smooth V groove which is still climbable at a similar grade but devoid of gear (you can still see the rusty peg scar higer up) Probably needs to be retrobolted.
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| Started By | Thread Subject | Replies | Last Post | ||
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| ILLJ | Fruity Pear gets Just Deserts....Grade? | 1 | Jul 25 2009, 1:36 PM EDT by calummonkey | ||
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Thread started: Jul 24 2009, 1:03 PM EDT
Watch
Anyone done this since it's been re bolted? It's given E4 6b (7a) in the graded list on here. The Crux felt very hard for F7a....any thoughts? Great route on good rock, well worth doing.
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| NickDavis | El Migitio Fagio | 1 | Oct 17 2008, 5:36 AM EDT by binkybonk | ||
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Thread started: Oct 16 2008, 9:43 AM EDT
Watch
Hello Slate nerds.
This route name has been bothering me for months, and I thought I'd better say something before the guide goes to press. I've seen the name spelled in many different ways, but I think the correct spelling should be <i>Il Miglior Fabbro</i>, which is the phrase that TS Eliot used when dedicating <i>The Waste Land</i> to Ezra Pound (the phrase means "the better craftsman"). Obviously if it means something else, I'm going to look like a proper chimp. |
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| Hoseyb | Unchain area | 2 | Aug 1 2007, 11:12 AM EDT by calummonkey | ||
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Thread started: Mar 19 2007, 5:42 PM EDT
Watch
Envy apears to start by a low down shot hole, but starting here is definately hvs territory, whereas starting up the central crack and traversing in makes a nice bold vs. Can anyone clarify this?
Unchain My heart looks good and definately up for rebolting, although the flake pocket looks like detaching soon, what are peoples thoughts to more bolts/ a communal loweroff? |
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