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Great Curve
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Jul 4 2009, 6:28 AM EDT by
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Thread started: Jun 12 2008, 5:13 PM EDT
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Good route but is it 5c ? feels more like 5 b max. Views ? Worth doing and the E4 to the left which is good and well bolted.
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RE: Great Curve
By: ,
Jul 4 2009, 6:28 AM EDT
Yeh I agree, this is only 5b and soft at that *imo* good route none the less,I liked the line. The straight up 'Remain in light 'is very good and felt very hard for me.
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Peter Pan
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Jul 4 2009, 6:25 AM EDT by
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Thread started: May 18 2007, 11:58 AM EDT
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Probably F6b in the Peak with the 'stepping left' variant (which is loose) getting F5+.
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RE: Peter Pan
By: ,
Jul 4 2009, 6:25 AM EDT
Yeh I liked this. It lulls you in to a false sense of security 'this is easy' then that last move kicks you in the teeth. good stuff
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Stick's Groove now clean!
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Sep 21 2008, 6:01 PM EDT by
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Thread started: Sep 21 2008, 6:01 PM EDT
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I decided there was a defecit of (known about) climbable VSs in the quarries despite there being lots in the book, so I thought I'd attempt to make another one available for the masses... I cleaned Stick's Groove today. It's a reasonable looking but neglected line, a shortish VS 4b groove up the right hand side of the Peter Pan wall (easily located using the guide book). I removed all the mud and vegation out of the crack, brushed off the holds, and rediscovered some potential pro and a ledge to stand on at the base of the groove. It looks like it takes a bit of run off from above which is probably why the vegation crept onto/into it, but if it gets some traffic I think it may well stay clean. I didn't have time to climb it myself as my friends were busy having an elongated ascent elsewhere, but the moves look nice and I'll be on it next time I'm up there. I'd be interested what people think if they climb it. It looks like there are a couple of nut placements so not as bold as it first may look, although don't hold me to that. Hopefully one to encourage people onto the trad, and to spread the load away from Seamstress and Zambesi. Take a big sling and a small cam (0.3 camalot) for the belay.
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my halo
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Jul 22 2008, 7:02 PM EDT by
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Thread started: Jul 11 2008, 3:14 AM EDT
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i'm having trouble finding which wire fits into my halo. is it a rp3, rp4 or is there a seperate series of offset rps which i would need a 3 of?
thanks
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RE: my halo
By: ,
Jul 22 2008, 7:02 PM EDT
Seams the same? For those with the fear try toproping it and see it you go direct or deviate for the side runner.
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One For All..
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Apr 9 2008, 1:50 PM EDT by
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Thread started: Apr 9 2008, 1:50 PM EDT
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Nice one Colin... as an aside, I climbed this route a couple of years ago and called it "Exploding Goats -VS 4b" this was due to one of the local billies jumping of a ledge 30ft up yellow wall onto slate boulders and... walking away.
I'm sure it'll get far more ascents now it has 4 bolts rather than 2 wires..
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Nick the Chisel Indirect
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Aug 31 2007, 10:57 AM EDT by
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Thread started: Apr 18 2007, 2:38 PM EDT
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There was a comment that this should be graded F6b. I thought is was more sustained than peter pan but no move as hard and warrants the F6a grade. Any other opinions???
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RE: Nick the Chisel Indirect
By: ,
Aug 31 2007, 10:57 AM EDT
Climbed it on wednesday and think it probably does merit a F.6b as the climbin is much more sustained than the start of Peter Pan. Not as good as its neighbour though.
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Alt Start to Nick the Chisel
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May 18 2007, 11:58 AM EDT by
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Thread started: May 18 2007, 11:58 AM EDT
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Definately F6b in the Peak!
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Windows
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Apr 16 2007, 5:57 AM EDT by
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Thread started: Apr 15 2007, 6:10 PM EDT
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Windows can finish direct with something in one of the high shot holes to protect. I think I used an old chair leg or something but it fell out .Not sure if Jonny did it this way, think it finishes up Heading the shot in old description ?
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RE: Windows
By: ,
Apr 16 2007, 5:57 AM EDT
Cool. Dead keen to get back on the slate. Keep up the good work
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