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Child's Play - unprotected start
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Jun 21 2009, 6:58 AM EDT by
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Thread started: Jun 21 2009, 6:58 AM EDT
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this needs an extra bolt at the start - interesting without. also, guide description (to start up Hymen Snapper) seems strange; it made sense and felt ok to start direct ie beneath first bolt.
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Bathtime Wall - old bolts ever replaced?
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Jun 21 2009, 6:22 AM EDT by
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Thread started: Jun 21 2009, 6:22 AM EDT
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am keen to try Soap on a Rope - i cant see that its been re-bolted on here, anyone know if it has / hasnt? thanks
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Rock fall above Conscientious Slab
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Oct 14 2008, 10:51 AM EDT by
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Thread started: Sep 20 2008, 4:33 PM EDT
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Had a look today, no routes affected, climbed and brushed Is it a Crime. There are however some rather delicately placed block just above the lower off. It'll probably be best to trundle these but it'll need doing early in the morning or after dark. I'm away next week but if no-one else gets there then I'll see what I can do when I get back.
MIke
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Last Reply:
RE: Rock fall above Conscientious Slab
By: ,
Oct 14 2008, 10:51 AM EDT
Hi Mike. "ALIENS STOLE MY HACKSAW" IS THE SLAB BETWEEN TOUT LE MONDE AND KINDER SPORT. It was done a while back.. never cleaned never bolted and, as a result NEVER CLIMBED! Goes at about English 4c apparently?? It would make sense to plug the gap, clean it properly, bolt it and add it to all the other routes along that section of the slab. Hve a word with Hosey and see what he thinks. I'm happy to do the job. Hope all's well. regards, Jimbo.
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East Face of Vivian
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Jul 23 2008, 3:17 PM EDT by
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Thread started: Jul 22 2008, 2:58 PM EDT
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Did this today, 8 routes in all, brilliant, a three star trip. The Missing Link still needs some cleaning, I lassoed the first bolt with an 8' sling as my holds were disintigrating, then pulled up on it! Rest of the pitch I was on sight cleaning with my nut tool!. It's OK now but would benefit from an ab clean and another bolt lower down, certainly adds some adventure to the day. Two Tone/One Step Beyond felt like E3 6a but maybe that's cos it was the top pitch of this 150m route!
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RE: East Face of Vivian
By: ,
Jul 23 2008, 3:17 PM EDT
Mental Lentils, Monstor Kitten (1st tech crux), Too Bald to be Bold, Turkey Chant, Never as Good as the First TIme, Last Tango, Missing Link (crux), TwoTone/One Step Beyond (2nd tech crux (fingers sore!)) Makes for an 8 pitch 3 star E2.
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Comes the Dervish
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Mar 16 2008, 4:58 PM EDT by
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Thread started: Mar 16 2008, 2:38 PM EDT
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Bomber gear available below the cam one and a half, couple of RP's and a really good superlight rock, it's probably only worth E1 now. stillbrilliant though.
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RE: Comes the Dervish
By: ,
Mar 16 2008, 4:58 PM EDT
The route is super safe but probably deserves the grade of E3 or at least E2. Maybe you've just climbed it enough times for the climbing to feel easy.
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weetabix connection
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Feb 13 2008, 9:08 AM EST by
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Thread started: Feb 13 2008, 9:08 AM EST
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why isnt this better known? did it last weekend and totally superb. not sure about the sport grade though, still had a slate bolted feel to it. brilliant climbing!
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Mister Mister
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Apr 25 2007, 5:22 PM EDT by
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Thread started: Mar 20 2007, 8:31 AM EDT
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Nice, needs some traffic. I thought F6b?
Also thought most of hard bit was shared with The Full Monty, so is that more like F6a?
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