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Australia
LOONING THE TUBE LEVEL.
Puddy Kat F5. New route left of Just for Fun. Climb the cleaned flake/groove upto the central ledge. Make a tricky move up the cleaned slab above. 2 B.R.'S protect to a twin bolt belay. 14/05/09. Jim Kelly/ Julia Kelly.
Brief Encounter ** E1 5b. New bolts and Lower off. 09/06
Donald Duck F6c+. New Rope Lower off and mallion in tree. 09/06 2 bolts replaced + 2 bolts added 2/06/07
Gadaffi Duck F6b+*. new bolts and lower off. One bolt added. 03/07
U.B.L. F4/HS 4b. Right of Sad Man Who's Sane, climb the slab/arete just left of Turn of the century pasttwo bolts with single bolt lower-off. 09/06
Hyperfly 6b Arete left of turn of the century. 4 bolts. Twin bolt lower off added today 2/3/08 . P.Targett and I Lloyd-Jones 23/08/07
Turn of the Century** E2 5c Re-equipped and new Lower off. 09/06
Maximum Tariff **6b. New route. Quality reachy climbing taking the obvious crack passing 4 bolts to a lower off. P. Targett. I Lloyd-Jones. P. Walley. 07/09/07 (you can top rope Buffolo Smashed in Head Jump off the lower off from this route but, it's a lot harder than the guide books E2 5c would suggest, very poorly protected 6a I thought MR)
Dried mouth sesame seed.HVS5a benefits from two bolts and a lower off. loose block trundled.06/08
Technical hamster 6c New route. Boulder problem arete right of dried mouth sesame seed. 2 bolts and lower off. Lower off bolt replaced today with ring bolt 2/3/08 (technical hamsters will climb the arete direct on the left hand side!!). P Targett and T Hughes 06/08/07
Technical Hamster Dance HVS 4b
Arete direct on right hand side, feel free to retrobolt.
Erict 24/8/07C
Goose Creature E3 6a. Re-bolted. 09/06 good bolting and good climbing! (low in grade MR)
Menai Vice E4 6c or 6b (debate!!!). Re-bolted one bolt added just below the top to protect the top out. 09/06
Looning The Tube E1 5b Traverse above the pipe to the rusty spike, then climb the crack. New bolt low down, old bolt in top crack remains. (probably VS MR)
Zzzooming The Tube E3 6a New route. Start as for Looning the Tube to the spike, traverse right and make a commiting move up to clip the 1st bolt, pass a 2nd bolt to a lower off left of the tree (note: when lowering off aim for the Tube (easy) FA - I Lloyd-Jones and T Hughes 21/08/07
I cleaned this route today pulling off at least 6 loose flakes including the loose one by the crux. It is now very solid!!The crux is still 6a (though a little harder) and the rest of the route is now slightly easier than on the 1st Ascent. We then re climbed it....I Lloyd-Jones and P Targett 8/10/07
Pruning The Tube E2. Old Peg Replace with bolt. 11/06
THE SIDINGS LEVEL.
This level now has a number of good routes, although short are well bolted and on good rock accross the lower french grades. This area is well worth the walk up and is in the sun after 11.00am great for winter climbing.
PLEASE TAKE CARE IF PEOPLE ARE CLIMBING ON RAILTRACK SLAB BELOW. LAST SUNDAY A BIT OF SLATE NARROWLY MISSED A CLIMBER
Gentle LayBack V0- To the left of Shothole arete using the last obvious slab feature layback from a SDS. E Russell 03/04/09
Shothole Arete V0 Climb the arete with a shothole in it! E Russell 03/04/09
Loose Block Corner V0 Pull on the loose block tentatively then continue up the dirty corner. Would be worthwhile after lots of traffic.E Russell 03/04/09
Puffing Billy V0+ Ten paces to the left of 'N' Gauge there is a small tree growing out of the slate. To the left of this is a corner. Climb the corner with a couple of nice moves. 30/08/08 Charlie Jordan (solo)
With a Little Help From A Tree V2/3 Start beneath the tree, the crux is getting the tree and then continue upwards with assitance from the tree and left hand arete. Highball! E Russell 03/04/09
'N' Gauge F5b/c?(info on uk climbing logbooks says loose flake gone and overgraded at 6a) Follows narrow pillar at the most left end of this level. 4 bolts + twin Bolt lower-off. Nov/07 Josie Ball - age 10.
Side line F4c Climbs out right from first bolt of 'N' Gauge 5 bolts + twin Bolt lower-off.27/1/08 Josie Ball.
Derailed F4b Climbs the corner just left of "Thomas the tank" start direct then move right. 3 bolts + twin bolt lower-off. 27/1/08 Josie Ball.
Thomas the Tank * F4a line between "'n'Gauge" and "Sodor" following slabby rock with crux at the top.4 bolts + twin Bolt lower-off. 16/12/2007 Archie Ball - 5 years old.
Rack and Pin ** F5b+ line left ofSodor corner + slab crux passing top bolt. 4 bolts + twin Bolt lower-off. 16/12/2007 Josie Ball
Sodor ** F5c Follows the hairline crack left of the centre of the wall , where the crack terminates at the horizontal feature continue straight up to lower-off 4 bolts + twin Bolt lower-off. 13/10/![Italic [Ctrl+I]](http://slate.wetpaint.com/img/ticon/ticon_italic.png "Italic [Ctrl+I]")
07 Josie Ball - age 10.
The Mallard ** F5c Line between Sodor + Polar express - slab line 4 bolts + twin Bolt lower-off. 16/12/2007 Josie Ball
Above The Line. HVS 4c (or so it says in the last two guide books)
Alternative start hvs 5b. Climbs the thin crack right of the normal start to Above the line to its traverse. Follow this to the top. May have been done before. P.Targett solo 05/10/07
Polar Express * F5b, Utilises Phils start ? to continue direct where ATL goes right ,4 bolts + twin Bolt lower-off. 13/10/07 Josie Ball - age 10
Ivor the Engine F5a climbs the slab to the right of last route crux at the top. 3 bolts + twin Bolt lower-off. 27/1/08 Josie Ball.
Gordon * F3c Slab and corner right hand side of the slab. 3 bolts + twin Bolt lower-off. 16/12/2007 Archie Ball.
The Level Crossing F5c ** A traverse of the slab following the distinct break at half height, start up "Rack and pin" then follow break to finish at "Ivor the Engine". 7 bolts + twin bolt lower-off. 27/1/08 Josie Ball.
'Those who climb clearly marked projects are the kind of people who would steal the chocolate bar from a kids lunch box - selfish tossers, who owe the bolt fund cash' **- F5b/c - 4 bolts + twin Bolt lower-off FA C Parkin 2.8.1986 re-equipped Feb 2008.
Choo Choo F5a/5b Arete and groove right of last route 4 bolts + twin bolt lower off. 28/2/08 Josie Ball. One of the final jugs is very loose & the whole piece lifts vertically about half an inch. Be warned. Not using it makes the route a grade or two harder but safer.
Hogwarts Express F5c? Climbs the stepped corner 55m of "Gordon" crux at top josie moved left at top due to lack of reach so not sure of the grade for direct. 3 bolts + twin bolt lower-off. 27/1/08 Josie Ball .
The Railway Children * F5c/6a ( did route at last about 5c for tall 6foot plus harder for short , with start and finish being much more difficult , must have been 6a+ for josie at her height! ) Climbs bouldery wall to good jug then right onto neat wall. 5 bolts + twin lower-off. 15/2/08 Josie Ball.( grade was difficult due to josies height and LONG reach at top)
In Loving Memory * F6b Climbs the line to the right of last route 5 bolts + twin bolt lower off.Difficult to grade due to Josies height. 14/4/08 Josie Ball.
FRUITBAT LEVEL.
Eric the Friutbat E2 5c bolt replaced with resin anchor. old bolt and duff stainless still in situ., feel free to tidy it up, loose rock also removed, there's lots of poor cam placements upto the bolt, which may be lasso-able. 10/07
ZIPPY LEVEL.
Last Chance for a Slow Dance E2 5b New Route taking the cleaned flake line on the steep wall left of the azorback routes. Climb direct to the start of the flake line and climb this with improving gear to a blunt spike at its apex. From here traverse right into the bay and finish as for ...and a pen please. Mark Dicken unsec. 2/11/07.
In on the Kill Taker E4 6b starting up last chance for a slow dance to the blunt spike. Stand on it and lean out for the bolt. Traverse past onto the overlap and straight up the cleaned holds to the top. opportunity for 20 odd feet of cleanish air if messed up. M Dicken M. Reeves 8/8/08
Rastaman vibration E1 5c bolt replaced and one added (orig a peg) block trundled. 10/07
Putting on Ayres E4 6c bolts replaced 10/07
Zippies 1st acid trip E1 5b bolt replaced 10/07
Geboa Racer E3. The bolts were place recently and look OK. A new bolt to protect the loose top out has been added. 09/06
Patio Doors of Perception E3. New lower off. 09/06
The Fat Controller F6a New route left of Red Throated Diver 5 Bolts + Lower Off. FA - P Targett and I Lloyd-Jones (Both Led) 22 / 06 / 07
Scarface Claw F6a+ New route between The Fat Controller and Red Throated Diver 6 Bolts to lower off FA - I Lloyd-Jones and P Targett 23/08/07
Red Throated Diver E3 6a**. New bolts one added to protect a boulder problem start and Lower-off. 09/06
2nd Class Passenger E2 5c*. New bolts one added at the bottom to protect the starting moves and one in the slightly friable groove at the top and Lower off. 10/06
Sleeper F6c New Route to the right of 2nd Class Passenger 6 bolts + Belay / Abseil Bolt. FA - I Lloyd-Jones and P Targett (Both Led) 4 / 6 /07
Crazy Train F6b+ New Route left of Ancestral Vices 8 bolts. FA - I Lloyd-Jones and P Targett (Both Led) 22/ 06 /07
Ancestral Vices E4 6b *. New Bolts two bolts added below where the first one was to protect the friable start and Lower off. 10/06
Off the Beaten Track E3 5c ***. New bolts plus 3 added to protect the friable start. 10/06
Between Here & Now E4 6a. Two bolts added lower down and then re-equipped higher up. Lower off. 3/07
Here to stay, Gone Tomorrow. E4 6a. Re-equipped it is possible to start up Between Here and now and traverse into this route, E3 if done this way.3/07.
Psychodelicate F?. The start of this route fell down, and has been rebolted a little to the left of the original start, and has had more bolts added to the top slab. IT HAS NOT BEEN RECLIMBED YET. 3/07.
Open Project holes drilled & a lower off in place to the right of dekophobia.
Son of Rabbit. E2. Crack line to the right of Dekophobia. (trad line).
Temple of Boom. 5.9. Offwidth to the right of Son of Rabbit. (Trad line).
My Secret Garden. F7a+ new route on pyramid boulder beyond dekophobia block. 9m, 3 bolts. Step off Rodin's podium onto the initial slab, turn the roof, and pad tenuously up the centre of the upper slab to slap for the summit. FA Mark Dicken, Gruff Owen (both led) 4/5/7
THE GORBALS LEVEL.
Sprint Finish E1/F6a?? Re-equipped/retrobolted (3 bolts top out BB).
As Yet Unnamed F5b. The right hand side of the slab past 3 bolts (top out BB).
See You Bruce E3. New Bolts one below the first to protect the starting moves on loose rock and one above the last to protect the last moves and lower off. 10/06
Gorbals E4. New bolts the first bolt was lowered and the RURP replaced with a higher bolt, another bolt was added below as the rock is friable, and although there is gear it is all behind loose flakes, another bolt may well be added to the start because the gear was poorer than initialy thought when it was re-equipped and Lower off. 10/06
The Stream of Obscenity. F7a. Bolted route between Kosciusko and the upper australian.
Single Factor E2*. New Bolts one added to help seperate the climbing from Genital Persuasion 10/06 Very bold to clip 2nd bolt.
Genital Persuasion E3*. New Bolts one added to help seperate it from is neighbour 10/06. 4 bolts, third one is wood! Easy to clip now but in a few years you will need a sling to put round it!
SKYLINE BUTTRESS LEVEL.
Billy Two Tokes E1 5b. New bolt (04/07) to back up the peg. Bottom ten feet grubby, but the climbing is easy. Still some loose rock, but this will be removed in the fullness of time. New belay bolt .
Plastic Soldier F5+/6a? 40m New Route. Climbs the large slab left of Lindy Lou, 13 bolts lead the way, belay on the large flake .FA Ian Lloyd-Jones, Phil Targett, Sam Beesley (all Lead) 15/04/09
Clash of the Titans F6a 40m New Route. Climbs the large Slab between Lindy Lou and Plastic Soldier, 16 bolts lead the way, belay on the large flake. FA Ian Lloyd-Jones, Chris Davies (both lead) 16/6/09
Mad Dog of the West HVS 5aNew belay bolt added on back wall. What a brilliant route: Yosemite comes to Llanberis!
THE FAR AWAY TOP LEVEL.
Above the huge scree slope and by an arched tunnel into the mountain.
Easy Routes can have Bolts Too F5+. Wall to the right of the small through tunnel on the left as you enter the level proper. 2 bolts protect.
F.A Si Beal (31.03.07)
Don't Look Back in Bangor E3 5b. On the wall to the left of the 'Wish you were here' wall. Start below the right hand end of a large leftward sloping ledgewith a big rock on it . Climb the pleasant corner/lay back crack to the ledge and step left to below the left facing groove. Set off up this heading to the obvious blocky jugs below the superb hand jamming crack, interesting moves into and up this lead to a small ledge below the final short corner. Good boulder belays behind wall.
F.A: Jon Ratcliffe, Steve Franklin and Andy Scott. (06.06.08) On sight.
A Room With A View F7b. Takes a line of weakness up the wall to the right of 'Dont look back in Bangor' through an obvious rock scar. A 'french' start leads into a sustained, technical and pumpy lower wall to a cool crux move left to a crack and so to good holds below the rock scar. Finish by exiting rightwards out of the 'scar' via a couple of long pulls to a double lower off. 7 bolts protect.
F.A: Jon Ratcliffe, Rob Lamey. (14.06.08)
N.B There is an 'access' bolt on a small dolorite block above the next wall.
The Faffer E6 6b. Climbs the diagonal crack on the left hand side of the 'Wish you were here' wall to a double lower off. A hard and sequency first half passing a crucial and hard to place small wire leads to the break and a slight easing in the second half with better gear. (fr 7b+ish climbing??,pretty well protected really).
F.A Jon Ratcliffe. (11.06.08) Headpointed, all gear placed on lead without faff.
Wish you Were Here F7c. Awesome new route up leftward facing flake.
F.A: Jon Ratcliffe. [31.03.07]
The Very Old And The Very New C2+/C3
New clean aid route taking the hairline crack to the left of wish u were here, it has a couple of bolts to protect the fragile lower gear placements and a very thin finish.
AUSTRALIA EAST.
Follow 'the stairs of Cirith Ungol' and enjoy some routes in the evening sun....
Only 10 minutes walk from the Looning the Tube Level!
THE BOTTANY BAY LEVEL.
Snakes and Ladders F4 Climbs the obvious slabby feature on the Botany Bay Level, 7 bolts lead to a lower off / belay. FA Ian Lloyd-Jones 29/01/09
Wave Rock F6c Climbs the attractive 'Wave' feature on the steep wall between Sylvanian Waters and Botany Bay, 7 bolts lead to a lower off. FA Ian Lloyd-Jones 21/02/09
Impact Zone F7a 16m New Route. Follow Wave Rock to the 4th Bolt before breaking left out of the groove; follow the line of bolts to a lower off. A technically interesting and sustained route on good rock. FA Ian Lloyd-Jones and Phil Targett (Both Lead) 06/03/09
The Road to Botany Bay F7a 5 bolts to a lower off. Bolts replaced / added 19/3/08
THE G`DAY LEVEL
Walk this way F6c New route left of Hogiau Pen Garett. Start by climbing the tricky / reachy shallow groove to gain the ledge above, foot traverse across the face using tiny but positive handholds for balance, a better hold and a precarious stride gains the arete, continue up the slab with some tricky moves initially, easing to gain the lower off above. 9 Bolts lead the way. F.A. Ian Lloyd-Jones and Sam Beesley 2/6/08
Hogiau Pen Garett F6a+ New route left of Koala Brothers. Start to the right of the rusty pipe and cable, 8 bolts lead the way to a double bolt lower off. F.A. I Lloyd-Jones and P Targett (both led) 21/04/08
The Koala Brothers F6b Climbs the dolerite dyke above shed 100m left of G'day Arete. The start is the crux and the top is tricky. 8 bolts to twin bolt L/off. 19/5/08 Josie Ball. (TAKE CARE on the roof of the shed, it's starting to collapse! Could be sorted by moving something solid to stand on onto the roof e.g. the wooden telegraph pole or some old pipes etc ILLJ)
G'day Arete F6c.**** 6 bolts to lower off. GREAT ROUTE ALERT!!!!
Serpentine Vein F8b New route up long snaking dolerite vein on east side of Australia.
F.A: Harry Potter [04/2007]
THE FAR OUT LEVEL.
The Curious Incident F6a New route, climbs the slabby side of the obvious arete left of To infinity and beyond! 7 Bolts lead the way to a double bolt lower off. F.A. Ian Lloyd-Jones and Phil Targett (Both Led) 2/05/08
To infinity and beyond! F6b New route, climbs a line up the main slab / wall left of the top of the ladder which gives access to this level from the G'day level. 10 bolts lead the way to a double bolt lower off. F.A. Ian Lloyd-Jones and Sam Beesley 22/04/08
Ride like the wind! F6b+ New route, climbs a sweeping line up the main slab / wall right of 'To Infinity and Beyond'. Start as for the previous route up to the 2nd bolt, move right and follow the line of 8 resin bolts to the lower off. F.A. Ian Lloyd-Jones and Phil Targett 4/05/08
Cirith Ungol F7a/F7a+? New Route, climbs an intricate and sequency line up the steep Dolerite vein (right of Ride Like the Wind!) 5 Bolts protect and lead the way to a double bolt lower off. F.A. Ian Lloyd-Jones and Phil Targett 20/05/08
Atticus Finch F6c New route. Climbs the groove in the arete on the right hand side of the level. An easy stepped start leads to a unique finishing sequence best climbed like a duracell bunny. 4 bolts to a twin bolt lower off. F.A. P Targett and Ian Lloyd-Jones 4/05/08
BOTTOM OF AUSTRALIA; well not quite the very bottom..
Walk through the right hand tunnel that starts between the Dali's Wall and Looning the Tube levels, take the right hand branch that leads you to the edge of the scree. Walk down following the left edge of the scree for about 20 yards and behold a steep slab with a line of about 12 shot/bore holes running up it's centre, forming the right wall of a V-groove. This is:
Great Bores of Today F7a+ish though prob 7a.. New route. Start by climbing the metal pipe(be gentle) and head to the holes that are the main event; getting established in them is the hard bit, yarding up them the reward. N.B The holes fill up with water after rain but if you take a few rags with you and clean them out first on abseil*, by the time you've warmed up/done some other routes elsewhere they'll be dry enough to climb.
F.A Jon Ratcliffe 23/07/08 Named by, and in honour of, the Great man himself, the big G, Mr Geoooorge Smith. Originally bolted by George back in the day, not sure which day, possibly a Thursday.
*there is an access bolt above the route: walk right (facing into the hole) along the lip of Australia for about 30 yards or so from the building on Looning the Tube level, the bolt is a couple of feet above the 'path' on the wall. From here you can get to the double lower off(visible) and down to the base.
The Wow Wow E4 6a
"Better and longer than the Mau Mau", it takes the obvious rightward diaganal crack 20m or so right of Great Bores of Today . A good rack of cams(00-4) with some double ups may be usefull.
1. 25m~30m 6a- Tackle the crack above the small alcove via some hard moves to a good hold, and continue with sustained difficulties past a breif restbite by a lovely Fern, to good ledge. Above easier climbing remains, albeit with interest as the crack widens, cam 3.5, 4 handy. Double bolt belay a few meters back.
2. 15m~20m 5b- Follow the continuation crack and before it deteriorates head off to good holds on the left wall and follow these to a bolt, a mantelshelf in the groove above and a tree. Belay bolt on boulder 3m back.
F.A Jon Ratcliffe and Steve Franklin 09/06/2009
The route was cleaned on abseil (apart from the start) and led without practice of any sort, except in my mind....
Puddy Kat F5. New route left of Just for Fun. Climb the cleaned flake/groove upto the central ledge. Make a tricky move up the cleaned slab above. 2 B.R.'S protect to a twin bolt belay. 14/05/09. Jim Kelly/ Julia Kelly.
Just for Fun E2*. New bolts one replacing a peg and Lower off. 09/06
The Burning E3. (More like Fr 6b/+) New Bolts and Lower off. 06
The Burning E3. (More like Fr 6b/+) New Bolts and Lower off. 06
The Deceptive DykeF5+*. New Route left of NE Spur. new bolts and lower off. 09/06 I agree with the star, this is worth climbing - it's unusual as greenstone and quartzite make it unlike other slate routes
1066 F6b. New route right of deceptive dyke. 3 bolts to lower off. sustained. P. Targett. T. Hughes 27/08 Does this climb the groove just to the right of the previous route? This felt to be the obvious line when climbed yet the bolting suggested trying to climb the wall to the right more directly??
Loony Tunes E3 5c. New lower off, existing bolts are stainless steel.
1066 F6b. New route right of deceptive dyke. 3 bolts to lower off. sustained. P. Targett. T. Hughes 27/08 Does this climb the groove just to the right of the previous route? This felt to be the obvious line when climbed yet the bolting suggested trying to climb the wall to the right more directly??
Loony Tunes E3 5c. New lower off, existing bolts are stainless steel.
Brief Encounter ** E1 5b. New bolts and Lower off. 09/06
Donald Duck F6c+. New Rope Lower off and mallion in tree. 09/06 2 bolts replaced + 2 bolts added 2/06/07
Gadaffi Duck F6b+*. new bolts and lower off. One bolt added. 03/07
Sad Man Who’s Sane VS 4c. Climb the slab just right of Gadaffi Duck moving occassionally left to the arete. Cleaning up with ascents
U.B.L. F4/HS 4b. Right of Sad Man Who's Sane, climb the slab/arete just left of Turn of the century pasttwo bolts with single bolt lower-off. 09/06
Hyperfly 6b Arete left of turn of the century. 4 bolts. Twin bolt lower off added today 2/3/08 . P.Targett and I Lloyd-Jones 23/08/07
Turn of the Century** E2 5c Re-equipped and new Lower off. 09/06
Maximum Tariff **6b. New route. Quality reachy climbing taking the obvious crack passing 4 bolts to a lower off. P. Targett. I Lloyd-Jones. P. Walley. 07/09/07 (you can top rope Buffolo Smashed in Head Jump off the lower off from this route but, it's a lot harder than the guide books E2 5c would suggest, very poorly protected 6a I thought MR)
Dried mouth sesame seed.HVS5a benefits from two bolts and a lower off. loose block trundled.06/08
Technical hamster 6c New route. Boulder problem arete right of dried mouth sesame seed. 2 bolts and lower off. Lower off bolt replaced today with ring bolt 2/3/08 (technical hamsters will climb the arete direct on the left hand side!!). P Targett and T Hughes 06/08/07
Technical Hamster Dance HVS 4b
Arete direct on right hand side, feel free to retrobolt.
Erict 24/8/07C
Goose Creature E3 6a. Re-bolted. 09/06 good bolting and good climbing! (low in grade MR)
Menai Vice E4 6c or 6b (debate!!!). Re-bolted one bolt added just below the top to protect the top out. 09/06
Looning The Tube E1 5b Traverse above the pipe to the rusty spike, then climb the crack. New bolt low down, old bolt in top crack remains. (probably VS MR)
Zzzooming The Tube E3 6a New route. Start as for Looning the Tube to the spike, traverse right and make a commiting move up to clip the 1st bolt, pass a 2nd bolt to a lower off left of the tree (note: when lowering off aim for the Tube (easy) FA - I Lloyd-Jones and T Hughes 21/08/07
I cleaned this route today pulling off at least 6 loose flakes including the loose one by the crux. It is now very solid!!The crux is still 6a (though a little harder) and the rest of the route is now slightly easier than on the 1st Ascent. We then re climbed it....I Lloyd-Jones and P Targett 8/10/07
Pruning The Tube E2. Old Peg Replace with bolt. 11/06
LEVEL ABOVE LOONING THE TUBE.
(By the Looning the Tube Bolt Belay)
Sport 4 All F4+ New route. Climbs the groove left of Kinder Surprise 2 bolts lead the way to a 2 bolt lower off above the square roof.FA Ian Lloyd-Jones 2/10/07
Kinder Surprise F4+ New route. Climbs the slanting line just above the Looning the Tube Belay Bolt, 3 bolts to a lower off. FA I Lloyd-Jones, P Targett 7/09/07
Surprise Surprise F5c New route to the right of Kinder Surprise passing three bolts the start is very tricky and the bolts harder to clip than the routes in Dali's Hole (Though considerably easier than some of the clips in Twll Mawr!!!!!!!)FA Ian Lloyd-Jones 11/09/07
Shorty's Dyno F6c/6a?New route left of Orangutang Overhang 3 bolts to a lower off. A great dyno for the short...a straightforward reach for the tall...FA I Lloyd-Jones and P Targett (both led) 13/9/07
Orangutang Overhang F6a+ New route. Climbs the technical groove (left of CWSH) before tackling the entertaining roof...5 bolts lead the way to a 2 Bolt lower off. FA Ian Lloyd-Jones, T Hughes, P Targett 28/08/07
Cyber World Sl@te Heads F6a+ New route. Climbs the groove up to the right hand side of the large roof, 5 bolts lead the way to a 2 Bolt Lower off on the large flake. FA I Lloyd-Jones, P Targett, T Hughes 27/08/07
Large Block pulled off this route 2/11/07
Steps of Glory F5 New route. Climbs the slaby wall to the right of Cyber World Sl@te Heads. 2 bolts lead to a ledge 3 further bolts and some nice stepped edges lead the way to a 2 bolt lower off. FA Mark Chambers, Christian Roots, Ian Pagano (All Led) 2/3/08
The Groovy Gang. severe. Takes the obvious groove in the corner over to the right of the broken slabs. Nice moves but no pro. FA P Targett solo 04/06/07
(By the Looning the Tube Bolt Belay)
Sport 4 All F4+ New route. Climbs the groove left of Kinder Surprise 2 bolts lead the way to a 2 bolt lower off above the square roof.FA Ian Lloyd-Jones 2/10/07
Kinder Surprise F4+ New route. Climbs the slanting line just above the Looning the Tube Belay Bolt, 3 bolts to a lower off. FA I Lloyd-Jones, P Targett 7/09/07
Surprise Surprise F5c New route to the right of Kinder Surprise passing three bolts the start is very tricky and the bolts harder to clip than the routes in Dali's Hole (Though considerably easier than some of the clips in Twll Mawr!!!!!!!)FA Ian Lloyd-Jones 11/09/07
Shorty's Dyno F6c/6a?New route left of Orangutang Overhang 3 bolts to a lower off. A great dyno for the short...a straightforward reach for the tall...FA I Lloyd-Jones and P Targett (both led) 13/9/07
Orangutang Overhang F6a+ New route. Climbs the technical groove (left of CWSH) before tackling the entertaining roof...5 bolts lead the way to a 2 Bolt lower off. FA Ian Lloyd-Jones, T Hughes, P Targett 28/08/07
Cyber World Sl@te Heads F6a+ New route. Climbs the groove up to the right hand side of the large roof, 5 bolts lead the way to a 2 Bolt Lower off on the large flake. FA I Lloyd-Jones, P Targett, T Hughes 27/08/07
Large Block pulled off this route 2/11/07
Steps of Glory F5 New route. Climbs the slaby wall to the right of Cyber World Sl@te Heads. 2 bolts lead to a ledge 3 further bolts and some nice stepped edges lead the way to a 2 bolt lower off. FA Mark Chambers, Christian Roots, Ian Pagano (All Led) 2/3/08
The Groovy Gang. severe. Takes the obvious groove in the corner over to the right of the broken slabs. Nice moves but no pro. FA P Targett solo 04/06/07
THE SIDINGS LEVEL.
This level now has a number of good routes, although short are well bolted and on good rock accross the lower french grades. This area is well worth the walk up and is in the sun after 11.00am great for winter climbing.
PLEASE TAKE CARE IF PEOPLE ARE CLIMBING ON RAILTRACK SLAB BELOW. LAST SUNDAY A BIT OF SLATE NARROWLY MISSED A CLIMBER
Gentle LayBack V0- To the left of Shothole arete using the last obvious slab feature layback from a SDS. E Russell 03/04/09
Shothole Arete V0 Climb the arete with a shothole in it! E Russell 03/04/09
Loose Block Corner V0 Pull on the loose block tentatively then continue up the dirty corner. Would be worthwhile after lots of traffic.E Russell 03/04/09
Puffing Billy V0+ Ten paces to the left of 'N' Gauge there is a small tree growing out of the slate. To the left of this is a corner. Climb the corner with a couple of nice moves. 30/08/08 Charlie Jordan (solo)
With a Little Help From A Tree V2/3 Start beneath the tree, the crux is getting the tree and then continue upwards with assitance from the tree and left hand arete. Highball! E Russell 03/04/09
'N' Gauge F5b/c?(info on uk climbing logbooks says loose flake gone and overgraded at 6a) Follows narrow pillar at the most left end of this level. 4 bolts + twin Bolt lower-off. Nov/07 Josie Ball - age 10.
Side line F4c Climbs out right from first bolt of 'N' Gauge 5 bolts + twin Bolt lower-off.27/1/08 Josie Ball.
Derailed F4b Climbs the corner just left of "Thomas the tank" start direct then move right. 3 bolts + twin bolt lower-off. 27/1/08 Josie Ball.
Thomas the Tank * F4a line between "'n'Gauge" and "Sodor" following slabby rock with crux at the top.4 bolts + twin Bolt lower-off. 16/12/2007 Archie Ball - 5 years old.
Rack and Pin ** F5b+ line left ofSodor corner + slab crux passing top bolt. 4 bolts + twin Bolt lower-off. 16/12/2007 Josie Ball
Sodor ** F5c Follows the hairline crack left of the centre of the wall , where the crack terminates at the horizontal feature continue straight up to lower-off 4 bolts + twin Bolt lower-off. 13/10/
07 Josie Ball - age 10.The Mallard ** F5c Line between Sodor + Polar express - slab line 4 bolts + twin Bolt lower-off. 16/12/2007 Josie Ball
Above The Line. HVS 4c (or so it says in the last two guide books)
Alternative start hvs 5b. Climbs the thin crack right of the normal start to Above the line to its traverse. Follow this to the top. May have been done before. P.Targett solo 05/10/07
Polar Express * F5b, Utilises Phils start ? to continue direct where ATL goes right ,4 bolts + twin Bolt lower-off. 13/10/07 Josie Ball - age 10
Ivor the Engine F5a climbs the slab to the right of last route crux at the top. 3 bolts + twin Bolt lower-off. 27/1/08 Josie Ball.
Gordon * F3c Slab and corner right hand side of the slab. 3 bolts + twin Bolt lower-off. 16/12/2007 Archie Ball.
The Level Crossing F5c ** A traverse of the slab following the distinct break at half height, start up "Rack and pin" then follow break to finish at "Ivor the Engine". 7 bolts + twin bolt lower-off. 27/1/08 Josie Ball.
'Those who climb clearly marked projects are the kind of people who would steal the chocolate bar from a kids lunch box - selfish tossers, who owe the bolt fund cash' **- F5b/c - 4 bolts + twin Bolt lower-off FA C Parkin 2.8.1986 re-equipped Feb 2008.
A not so new route, soloed in August 1986 at the same time as Above The Line, but never claimed at the time. The groove "nich" route 50m right of Polar Express.
Choo Choo F5a/5b Arete and groove right of last route 4 bolts + twin bolt lower off. 28/2/08 Josie Ball. One of the final jugs is very loose & the whole piece lifts vertically about half an inch. Be warned. Not using it makes the route a grade or two harder but safer.
Hogwarts Express F5c? Climbs the stepped corner 55m of "Gordon" crux at top josie moved left at top due to lack of reach so not sure of the grade for direct. 3 bolts + twin bolt lower-off. 27/1/08 Josie Ball .
The Railway Children * F5c/6a ( did route at last about 5c for tall 6foot plus harder for short , with start and finish being much more difficult , must have been 6a+ for josie at her height! ) Climbs bouldery wall to good jug then right onto neat wall. 5 bolts + twin lower-off. 15/2/08 Josie Ball.( grade was difficult due to josies height and LONG reach at top)
In Loving Memory * F6b Climbs the line to the right of last route 5 bolts + twin bolt lower off.Difficult to grade due to Josies height. 14/4/08 Josie Ball.
FRUITBAT LEVEL.
Eric the Friutbat E2 5c bolt replaced with resin anchor. old bolt and duff stainless still in situ., feel free to tidy it up, loose rock also removed, there's lots of poor cam placements upto the bolt, which may be lasso-able. 10/07
ZIPPY LEVEL.
Last Chance for a Slow Dance E2 5b New Route taking the cleaned flake line on the steep wall left of the azorback routes. Climb direct to the start of the flake line and climb this with improving gear to a blunt spike at its apex. From here traverse right into the bay and finish as for ...and a pen please. Mark Dicken unsec. 2/11/07.
In on the Kill Taker E4 6b starting up last chance for a slow dance to the blunt spike. Stand on it and lean out for the bolt. Traverse past onto the overlap and straight up the cleaned holds to the top. opportunity for 20 odd feet of cleanish air if messed up. M Dicken M. Reeves 8/8/08
Rastaman vibration E1 5c bolt replaced and one added (orig a peg) block trundled. 10/07
Putting on Ayres E4 6c bolts replaced 10/07
Zippies 1st acid trip E1 5b bolt replaced 10/07
RAILTRACK SLAB.
Mad on the Metro E4 . New Bolts and Lower-off. The original ring bolt was left in to aid identification.09/06
Geboa Racer E3. The bolts were place recently and look OK. A new bolt to protect the loose top out has been added. 09/06
Patio Doors of Perception E3. New lower off. 09/06
The Fat Controller F6a New route left of Red Throated Diver 5 Bolts + Lower Off. FA - P Targett and I Lloyd-Jones (Both Led) 22 / 06 / 07
Scarface Claw F6a+ New route between The Fat Controller and Red Throated Diver 6 Bolts to lower off FA - I Lloyd-Jones and P Targett 23/08/07
Red Throated Diver E3 6a**. New bolts one added to protect a boulder problem start and Lower-off. 09/06
2nd Class Passenger E2 5c*. New bolts one added at the bottom to protect the starting moves and one in the slightly friable groove at the top and Lower off. 10/06
Sleeper F6c New Route to the right of 2nd Class Passenger 6 bolts + Belay / Abseil Bolt. FA - I Lloyd-Jones and P Targett (Both Led) 4 / 6 /07
Crazy Train F6b+ New Route left of Ancestral Vices 8 bolts. FA - I Lloyd-Jones and P Targett (Both Led) 22/ 06 /07
Ancestral Vices E4 6b *. New Bolts two bolts added below where the first one was to protect the friable start and Lower off. 10/06
Off the Beaten Track E3 5c ***. New bolts plus 3 added to protect the friable start. 10/06
Between Here & Now E4 6a. Two bolts added lower down and then re-equipped higher up. Lower off. 3/07
Here to stay, Gone Tomorrow. E4 6a. Re-equipped it is possible to start up Between Here and now and traverse into this route, E3 if done this way.3/07.
Psychodelicate F?. The start of this route fell down, and has been rebolted a little to the left of the original start, and has had more bolts added to the top slab. IT HAS NOT BEEN RECLIMBED YET. 3/07.
BLOCK BELOW THE RAIL TRACK.
The obvious large boulder below railtrack slab.
The obvious large boulder below railtrack slab.
Dekophobia. F7a. 7 bolts to lower off
Open Project holes drilled & a lower off in place to the right of dekophobia.
Son of Rabbit. E2. Crack line to the right of Dekophobia. (trad line).
Temple of Boom. 5.9. Offwidth to the right of Son of Rabbit. (Trad line).
My Secret Garden. F7a+ new route on pyramid boulder beyond dekophobia block. 9m, 3 bolts. Step off Rodin's podium onto the initial slab, turn the roof, and pad tenuously up the centre of the upper slab to slap for the summit. FA Mark Dicken, Gruff Owen (both led) 4/5/7
THE GORBALS LEVEL.
As yet unnamed?E36a Start between sprint finish and NW face of the aga, climb up to a bolt before moving up and right to clip the first bolt on NW Face, then head up and right to clip the top bolt on sprint finish before making headway slightly left to a final bolt passing this and reaching the top is the crux.
Sprint Finish E1/F6a?? Re-equipped/retrobolted (3 bolts top out BB).
As Yet Unnamed F5b. The right hand side of the slab past 3 bolts (top out BB).
See You Bruce E3. New Bolts one below the first to protect the starting moves on loose rock and one above the last to protect the last moves and lower off. 10/06
Gorbals E4. New bolts the first bolt was lowered and the RURP replaced with a higher bolt, another bolt was added below as the rock is friable, and although there is gear it is all behind loose flakes, another bolt may well be added to the start because the gear was poorer than initialy thought when it was re-equipped and Lower off. 10/06
SALT PANS AREA.
Upper Australian E3 5c. 10/06 NB. This is the arete above the Australian in the guide and is found at the end of the 'Salt Pans'. One bolt added lower down and a lower-off placed.
The Stream of Obscenity. F7a. Bolted route between Kosciusko and the upper australian.
Narcolepsy F7a+. Lower off added, bolted route to the right of the Australian. 10/06
THE ROGNON.
THE ROGNON.
Abattoir Blues E2 5b*.New Route, three bolts to top. Scramble up to the first bolt then climb the arete a cheval, second bolt is a tricky clip, move onto front face above it.
Single Factor E2*. New Bolts one added to help seperate the climbing from Genital Persuasion 10/06 Very bold to clip 2nd bolt.
Genital Persuasion E3*. New Bolts one added to help seperate it from is neighbour 10/06. 4 bolts, third one is wood! Easy to clip now but in a few years you will need a sling to put round it!
SKYLINE BUTTRESS LEVEL.
Antiquity E1 5a. 40m. Both pegs replaced with bolts, and a new bolt added to protect the upper insecure groove. Quite nervy in the lower reaches until the first of the bolts is clipped. Not the best HVS in the quarries, not even close. Worth a star and E1.
Act Naturally VS 4b. A good route at the grade. Reliable gear with 40m of climbing to finish on 'summit'!
Ruby Marlee meets Dr Holingsworth F6a. 40m. Another big safe climb with atmos! climbs the wall to the left of Dr Stranglove, via a weaving line of ten bolts. Either climb Act Naturally to the top of first ramp and then follow the bolts, or absiel to the first bolt and belay from there.top out and belay off two bolts.
F.A. CHRIS DAVIES, I.LLOYD-JONES.16/06/09.
Methane Monster E2. A reasonable proposition for the grade, with a new belay as for BTT.
F.A. CHRIS DAVIES, I.LLOYD-JONES.16/06/09.
Methane Monster E2. A reasonable proposition for the grade, with a new belay as for BTT.
Billy Two Tokes E1 5b. New bolt (04/07) to back up the peg. Bottom ten feet grubby, but the climbing is easy. Still some loose rock, but this will be removed in the fullness of time. New belay bolt .
Plastic Soldier F5+/6a? 40m New Route. Climbs the large slab left of Lindy Lou, 13 bolts lead the way, belay on the large flake .FA Ian Lloyd-Jones, Phil Targett, Sam Beesley (all Lead) 15/04/09
Clash of the Titans F6a 40m New Route. Climbs the large Slab between Lindy Lou and Plastic Soldier, 16 bolts lead the way, belay on the large flake. FA Ian Lloyd-Jones, Chris Davies (both lead) 16/6/09
Mad Dog of the West HVS 5aNew belay bolt added on back wall. What a brilliant route: Yosemite comes to Llanberis!
THE FAR AWAY TOP LEVEL.
Above the huge scree slope and by an arched tunnel into the mountain.
Easy Routes can have Bolts Too F5+. Wall to the right of the small through tunnel on the left as you enter the level proper. 2 bolts protect.
F.A Si Beal (31.03.07)
Don't Look Back in Bangor E3 5b. On the wall to the left of the 'Wish you were here' wall. Start below the right hand end of a large leftward sloping ledgewith a big rock on it . Climb the pleasant corner/lay back crack to the ledge and step left to below the left facing groove. Set off up this heading to the obvious blocky jugs below the superb hand jamming crack, interesting moves into and up this lead to a small ledge below the final short corner. Good boulder belays behind wall.
F.A: Jon Ratcliffe, Steve Franklin and Andy Scott. (06.06.08) On sight.
A Room With A View F7b. Takes a line of weakness up the wall to the right of 'Dont look back in Bangor' through an obvious rock scar. A 'french' start leads into a sustained, technical and pumpy lower wall to a cool crux move left to a crack and so to good holds below the rock scar. Finish by exiting rightwards out of the 'scar' via a couple of long pulls to a double lower off. 7 bolts protect.
F.A: Jon Ratcliffe, Rob Lamey. (14.06.08)
N.B There is an 'access' bolt on a small dolorite block above the next wall.
The Faffer E6 6b. Climbs the diagonal crack on the left hand side of the 'Wish you were here' wall to a double lower off. A hard and sequency first half passing a crucial and hard to place small wire leads to the break and a slight easing in the second half with better gear. (fr 7b+ish climbing??,pretty well protected really).
F.A Jon Ratcliffe. (11.06.08) Headpointed, all gear placed on lead without faff.
Wish you Were Here F7c. Awesome new route up leftward facing flake.
F.A: Jon Ratcliffe. [31.03.07]
The Very Old And The Very New C2+/C3
New clean aid route taking the hairline crack to the left of wish u were here, it has a couple of bolts to protect the fragile lower gear placements and a very thin finish.
F.A: Si Beal [17.02.07]
AUSTRALIA EAST.
Follow 'the stairs of Cirith Ungol' and enjoy some routes in the evening sun....
Only 10 minutes walk from the Looning the Tube Level!
THE BOTTANY BAY LEVEL.
Snakes and Ladders F4 Climbs the obvious slabby feature on the Botany Bay Level, 7 bolts lead to a lower off / belay. FA Ian Lloyd-Jones 29/01/09
Wave Rock F6c Climbs the attractive 'Wave' feature on the steep wall between Sylvanian Waters and Botany Bay, 7 bolts lead to a lower off. FA Ian Lloyd-Jones 21/02/09
Impact Zone F7a 16m New Route. Follow Wave Rock to the 4th Bolt before breaking left out of the groove; follow the line of bolts to a lower off. A technically interesting and sustained route on good rock. FA Ian Lloyd-Jones and Phil Targett (Both Lead) 06/03/09
The Road to Botany Bay F7a 5 bolts to a lower off. Bolts replaced / added 19/3/08
THE G`DAY LEVEL
Walk this way F6c New route left of Hogiau Pen Garett. Start by climbing the tricky / reachy shallow groove to gain the ledge above, foot traverse across the face using tiny but positive handholds for balance, a better hold and a precarious stride gains the arete, continue up the slab with some tricky moves initially, easing to gain the lower off above. 9 Bolts lead the way. F.A. Ian Lloyd-Jones and Sam Beesley 2/6/08
Hogiau Pen Garett F6a+ New route left of Koala Brothers. Start to the right of the rusty pipe and cable, 8 bolts lead the way to a double bolt lower off. F.A. I Lloyd-Jones and P Targett (both led) 21/04/08
The Koala Brothers F6b Climbs the dolerite dyke above shed 100m left of G'day Arete. The start is the crux and the top is tricky. 8 bolts to twin bolt L/off. 19/5/08 Josie Ball. (TAKE CARE on the roof of the shed, it's starting to collapse! Could be sorted by moving something solid to stand on onto the roof e.g. the wooden telegraph pole or some old pipes etc ILLJ)
(Update 05/04/09: shed roof partially collapsed while I was standing on it today. It is currently VERY dangerous. Have a look inside and you will see why. A NEW BOLT SHOULD BE PLACED FOR THE BELAYER TO HANG ON ASAP)
G'day Arete F6c.**** 6 bolts to lower off. GREAT ROUTE ALERT!!!!
Serpentine Vein F8b New route up long snaking dolerite vein on east side of Australia.
F.A: Harry Potter [04/2007]
THE FAR OUT LEVEL.
The Curious Incident F6a New route, climbs the slabby side of the obvious arete left of To infinity and beyond! 7 Bolts lead the way to a double bolt lower off. F.A. Ian Lloyd-Jones and Phil Targett (Both Led) 2/05/08
To infinity and beyond! F6b New route, climbs a line up the main slab / wall left of the top of the ladder which gives access to this level from the G'day level. 10 bolts lead the way to a double bolt lower off. F.A. Ian Lloyd-Jones and Sam Beesley 22/04/08
Ride like the wind! F6b+ New route, climbs a sweeping line up the main slab / wall right of 'To Infinity and Beyond'. Start as for the previous route up to the 2nd bolt, move right and follow the line of 8 resin bolts to the lower off. F.A. Ian Lloyd-Jones and Phil Targett 4/05/08
Cirith Ungol F7a/F7a+? New Route, climbs an intricate and sequency line up the steep Dolerite vein (right of Ride Like the Wind!) 5 Bolts protect and lead the way to a double bolt lower off. F.A. Ian Lloyd-Jones and Phil Targett 20/05/08
Atticus Finch F6c New route. Climbs the groove in the arete on the right hand side of the level. An easy stepped start leads to a unique finishing sequence best climbed like a duracell bunny. 4 bolts to a twin bolt lower off. F.A. P Targett and Ian Lloyd-Jones 4/05/08
BOTTOM OF AUSTRALIA; well not quite the very bottom..
Walk through the right hand tunnel that starts between the Dali's Wall and Looning the Tube levels, take the right hand branch that leads you to the edge of the scree. Walk down following the left edge of the scree for about 20 yards and behold a steep slab with a line of about 12 shot/bore holes running up it's centre, forming the right wall of a V-groove. This is:
Great Bores of Today F7a+ish though prob 7a.. New route. Start by climbing the metal pipe(be gentle) and head to the holes that are the main event; getting established in them is the hard bit, yarding up them the reward. N.B The holes fill up with water after rain but if you take a few rags with you and clean them out first on abseil*, by the time you've warmed up/done some other routes elsewhere they'll be dry enough to climb.
F.A Jon Ratcliffe 23/07/08 Named by, and in honour of, the Great man himself, the big G, Mr Geoooorge Smith. Originally bolted by George back in the day, not sure which day, possibly a Thursday.
*there is an access bolt above the route: walk right (facing into the hole) along the lip of Australia for about 30 yards or so from the building on Looning the Tube level, the bolt is a couple of feet above the 'path' on the wall. From here you can get to the double lower off(visible) and down to the base.
The Wow Wow E4 6a
"Better and longer than the Mau Mau", it takes the obvious rightward diaganal crack 20m or so right of Great Bores of Today . A good rack of cams(00-4) with some double ups may be usefull.
1. 25m~30m 6a- Tackle the crack above the small alcove via some hard moves to a good hold, and continue with sustained difficulties past a breif restbite by a lovely Fern, to good ledge. Above easier climbing remains, albeit with interest as the crack widens, cam 3.5, 4 handy. Double bolt belay a few meters back.
2. 15m~20m 5b- Follow the continuation crack and before it deteriorates head off to good holds on the left wall and follow these to a bolt, a mantelshelf in the groove above and a tree. Belay bolt on boulder 3m back.
F.A Jon Ratcliffe and Steve Franklin 09/06/2009
The route was cleaned on abseil (apart from the start) and led without practice of any sort, except in my mind....
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| Started By | Thread Subject | Replies | Last Post | ||
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| chrisdavies | plastic soldiers | 0 | May 24 2009, 6:15 PM EDT by chrisdavies | ||
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Thread started: May 24 2009, 6:15 PM EDT
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just a quickie, get yourselves up and on to this route, fantastic positions, loads of clips, yet still feels like a good adventure. there is some loose rock , but a few ascents should sort that out ! theres not many routes that have as good a view as this one does, when your sitting at the top belaying your second !
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| The_Third | Puffing Billy+Boulder Problems | 2 | Apr 3 2009, 7:29 PM EDT by The_Third | ||
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Thread started: Apr 3 2009, 4:39 PM EDT
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Unsure about which one of the ones I have added is Puffing Billy, as "Loose Block Corner" I felt had far too much loose rock(one large loose block in particular) and no good moves! The corner left of shothole arete is possible but I feel wouldn't be a severe or good, I think you possibly did peg problem as the climbing on this was nice however no mention of peg+It's not really a corner. Anyway If anyone knows please delete/move as approppiate, thanks.
Also I hope the problems are roughly the right grades(unsure), some traffic would be good, they possibly are a little bit eliminate style however as they are boulder problems shouldn't be too much of an issue and there is probably two or so v4ish problems which I didn't do(not out of choice!). First the slab to the right of shothole arete however having done the moves(not linked) it is very contrived (don't use the arete) and then the hanging slab to the right of "with a little help from a tree" which possibly needs some rock trundling, is highball and I wasn't particuarlly happy doing it alone and with only 1 pad. |
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| adam06 | sidings loose bolts | 0 | Dec 7 2008, 2:05 PM EST by adam06 | ||
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Thread started: Dec 7 2008, 2:05 PM EST
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2 loose ones on polar express i think. so if anyone is goin take a spanner
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