Bus Stop QuarryThis is a featured page

Bus Stop

Most of Bus Stop was re-equipped fairly recently, and most of the bolted routes are already safe with resined in eco-anchors. Exceptions are Meltdown, Wizz Bang.
New bolt belay on Fools Gold.

Raisin Frumpsnoot F7b
New sport route between Scare City and Forsinian Motspur.
A. Wainwright 05/05/07
Beltane F7a+
New sport route right of Forsinian Motspur.
A. Wainwright 30/05/07

My Hoover craft is full of Eels F6b.
New route on right end of crag, equipped and climbed by R Mirfin. 2006.
Mini Bus Stop F5+ (F6a?) New route right of My Hoovercraft...equipped and climbed by I Lloyd-Jones, L Body, I Martin 22/05/07
Fridge F6b+. New bolts and lower off. 1/07
Freezer F6b+ New route right of Fridge. P Targett 26/05/07

Upper Level (Above and behind Solstice and Equinox etc)

Finatic F6c New route (At the back of the bay above and behind Fools Gold) takes a line between 2 fins of rock 3 bolts to a lower off. FA Ian Lloyd-Jones and Phil Targett 15/12/07
Jenga F4 New route takes the well cleaned corner via 4 bolts to a double resin bolt lower off. FA Ian Lloyd-Jones 13/12/07
Bosch Stop Quarry F6a+ New route takes the shallow groove left and round the corner from Jenga. 4 bolts to a double resin bolt lower off. FA Ian Lloyd-Jones 13/12/07
Bish Bash Bosch F6a+ New route left of Bosch Stop Quarry.Start on a sloping ledge 3 bolts lead the way to a double resin bolt lower off. (The lower off can't be seen from the last bolt..keep climbing and it soon appears!) FA Ian Lloyd-Jones 14/12/07
The Big Easy F4 new route. Takes the short slab up on the left when walking behind the fools gold wall. 3 bolts to a double bolt belay. FA Phil Targett 02/0308
Jagged Face F4 New Route. Start just right of The Big Easy 3 bolts to a shared lower off. F.A. Michael Hurst, Brett Wedley, Tim Muller 21/05/08

New Sector-Bus stop Wall.
This is the untouched wall on the left as one enters the area.The wall is crowned by what might have appeared to be a dangerous wall of slate.Prior to undertaking three projects here I naturally examined the top and found it acceptable after removing a few loose blocks-the wall is stable.But ultimately no slate crag can be guaranteed totally safe from stonefall.
I have completed one route and cleaned and renovated an old one and two others are in the project stage.

Septuagenarian F6a 25m.
The route starts at a clean slab in the middle of the wall below a cleaned overhang.Climb directly over this to gain a cleaned but shattered ramp(more cleaning needed-but will improve with traffic and my further input) Move right along the sloping ramp to a line of 3bolts leading steeply up to a double bolt and ring lower off .6 Bolts protect.
FA: Colin Goodey,Sue Goodey & Diane Kelly.11th August 2009.

Ferrero Roche MVS (F5a).
This is the renovated version of an old route(Mud Slide Slim of 1986-following the obvious corner on the right) The route has been stripped of huge amounts of loose rock,heather,ferns,mud ,grass and dust and twin lower offs fitted-all aimed at making the route more popular.The route is potentially very good and will improve with further use.
Cleaned and renamed with first accenionists permission by:
Colin Goodey, Sue Goodey and Diane kelly. 8th August 2009.

Two projects are ongoing and have been examined: one to left of Septuagenarian and the other up the wall to the right of that route.
These lines will be completed in September after I return from Scotland.Please respect. C.G.

Bus stop Wall.
Second new route on this wall:
'First Stop' F5a- Takes the clean grey buttress on the extreme left side of crag
Very pleasant climbing past 3 bolts to twin lower off.
FA-Colin Goodey and Sue Trainer 14th October 2009

'Comfort Zone' F 5b - A very pleasant natural line on the towering buttress above and behind Solstice and Equinox. Start in an obvious square cut recess on the left side of the buttress.Climb steeply through an overhang to gain easier but pleasant climbing above past three bolts to double lower off. FA : Colin and Sue Goodey
8th October 2009.


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colinandsue
Latest page update: made by colinandsue , Oct 16 2009, 3:33 PM EDT (about this update About This Update colinandsue Edited by colinandsue

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MikeRaine Gnat Attack 10 Jul 4 2009, 6:19 AM EDT by guddays
Thread started: Jul 29 2007, 5:24 AM EDT  Watch
Noticed this is 5b in the selected climbs guide, surely it's 5C
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phil.t beltane 0 May 29 2009, 6:25 PM EDT by phil.t
Thread started: May 29 2009, 6:25 PM EDT  Watch
The new guide book suggests that the finish is somewhat easier than what has gone before. Dont be misled. The finishing moves are quite hard and somewhat precarious. The rumour is that the left hand finishing hold has blown since the first ascent. Its now only a poor mono or possible stack affair. It certainly felt a difficult finish after my successful redpoint tonight. Maybe this needs amending in the text before the guide comes into print
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NickDavis Padarn Car Park Quarry 3 Nov 3 2008, 7:38 AM EST by binkybonk
Thread started: Oct 27 2008, 6:01 PM EDT  Watch
Hello.

This crag is listed on UKClimbing: http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=1358

The description says there are six routes, of which only one is listed. Anyone know anything about the place? Worth a visit?
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