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California
California Wall
New fun route [10/06/08] linking California with Serengeti. From California bottom, ascend the scree then bear back to the right and walk along a vegitated shelf between two trees, from the top of the slate steps start at the left. "Climb the arete following 4 bolts to mantal finish and twin bolt chained anchor on the shelf above". (Lower-off sport style or bring up your second and go through the tunnel to the left onto Serengeti - also useful in reverse as an abseil line into California)
FA. H. Gilbert & S. Ratcliffe
All bolts have been replaced bolt for bolt, as close as possible to the exsisting placements. There were two bolt belays place over the top of the crag, one at the top of Waves of Inspiration, about 2metres back from the edge near a little gully. The second was on top of Central Sadness and is easily found by finding the slate shed. There is one bolt inside and one outside the hut.
The following route recieve the treatment. All re-equipped 04/07.
The California Express F3+ Simply Peach E5 6b. Peg replaced by a bolt.
Sad Old Red
Spider Pants E6 6b. New bolts and belay. 04/07
Central Sadness. E5 6a. New Bolts and Belay. 04/07
Sombre Music. E6 6b. New Bolts. 04/07
The Big Sur E6 6b. New Bolts. 04/07
Waves of Inspiration. E5 6a New Bolts. 04/07
Stairway to Silence. E6 (or is it E7?). New Bolts. 04/07
Tambourine Man F8a
New route up obvious corner 10m left of California Arete.
F.A: Peter Robins [16.04.07].
Tambourine Man F8a
New route up obvious corner 10m left of California Arete.
F.A: Peter Robins [16.04.07].
New fun route [10/06/08] linking California with Serengeti. From California bottom, ascend the scree then bear back to the right and walk along a vegitated shelf between two trees, from the top of the slate steps start at the left. "Climb the arete following 4 bolts to mantal finish and twin bolt chained anchor on the shelf above". (Lower-off sport style or bring up your second and go through the tunnel to the left onto Serengeti - also useful in reverse as an abseil line into California)
FA. H. Gilbert & S. Ratcliffe
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MikeRaine |
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| Started By | Thread Subject | Replies | Last Post | ||
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| Will_Hunt | Further Development in California | 0 | Jun 19 2008, 8:06 PM EDT by Will_Hunt | ||
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Thread started: Jun 19 2008, 8:06 PM EDT
Watch
Popped into California for the first time today as an exploration after the days climbing.
Was blown away by the scale of it and by how hidden away it all was. Some of the walls, especially at the back, are huge but look like they dont hold any routes. The quarry itself was also stacked with amazing looking lines. The Dali --> California tunnel looked like it had a cracking route over it up a thin crack but didnt look like it was climbed (or am I getting confused with another route). Anyways, ramble over. Question is does anybody have a photo topo of the place so I can check out the lines I saw today? Also, does California stay as green as it looked today? |
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| benslack | Central Sadness | 1 | Apr 27 2008, 1:09 PM EDT by MikeRaine | ||
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Thread started: Apr 25 2008, 5:06 AM EDT
Watch
In my slate guide it says there is a tape runner at the end of the overlaps on pitch 1.
does this mean there is an insitu sling i can't see from the ground or a shot hole that can be used as a thread? thankyou please |
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| calummonkey | Waves Of Inspiration | 0 | Aug 1 2007, 10:50 AM EDT by calummonkey | ||
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Thread started: Aug 1 2007, 10:50 AM EDT
Watch
Fantastic route but felt more like a 6b than 6a, or maybe it felt hard because it was my first E5!
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