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Never Never Land
Most of the routes have eco anchors at present. These include Short Stories, Kubla Khan, Meltdown, Watch Me wallaby..... (I with Tim Neill and John Tatum in 1993/4 placed these ecos using the petrol powered drill Ian McNeill)
MONKEY BAR AREA.
Home Run E2 5c*. New bolts. belay is already eco anchors. Two bolts added on to top and one above the first bolt. Difficult moves to first lead to a precarious one to reach the second. Ok to top from then.
Patellaectomy E1***. New belay, bolt as already stainless and good. 03/07.
Shock the Monkey f6a. New bolts and LO. 1 additional bolt added. Old bolts need removing with allen key or very big hammer! 16/11/07
Ibex. M8+
A good sustained route with fun moves and a crux near the top, though maybe not the easy warm-up route its builders intended it to be. The route is on the back wall, just right of the tunnel. Start next to the boulder - there may be a Quarryman's clip-stick in place for the first bolt. Monopoints and jug-handle tools pretty much mandatory, or take the M10 tick for a 'Vertiges with homemade leashes and dual-point crampons' ascent.
Route created by Owen Samuel & Rocio Siemens. F.A. Pete Harrison 19/02/09.
Monkey See Monkey Do E2 5b
Start 2m left of patellaectomy-climb direct through the overhang (small wires) to arrive at a horizontal break,traverse this rightward and up a small crack system. A tougher section at the top leads to an easy finish.FA Si Beal,Andy Scott,Nick Harford 23.06.08
Beyond the Pail F7a ,1 bar for aid
Start as for Pail Rider at the 4 shot holes at the base of the wall. Use these ( Don't delve too deep as they're full of water at the back! ) to gain the right hand flake and follow this to a small ledge and the third bolt. Step precariously left to the first shot hole under the bars. Keep going up the wall to the good edge on Patellaectomy and rock over to grab the right hand bar,(a short sling handy for protection) mantle this and head diagonally right to another bolt. Thin moves lead out to the last bolt near the arete, joining Pail Rider for its final moves and lower off. An enjoyable and airy pitch.
F.A Andy Scott, Jon Ratcliffe 25/06/08.
Pail Rider F6c+
Start at the 4 shot holes at the base of the wall and follow the flakes out past three bolts. Thin sidepulls, tasty footwork and a long stride out right to gain the flake out near the arete with a small ledge and bolt. Up the short crack to an awkward mantel onto the ledge below the final arete. Reach out left to clip the last bolt and pull onto the wall and arete with a fierce little pull for the lower off. F.A Andy Scott, Jon Ratcliffe 24/06/08.
A Little Pail F6b+
Starts a couple of metres right of the previous route. Climb the pleasantly delicate shallow groove to a niche, pull into and up this to the base of a short crack on the left and a junction with the previous route. Continue following the 'Pail Rider' to it's lower off, the crux being exactly that.
F.A Jon Ratcliffe, Andy Scott. (25.06.08)
Dyke Rider E2 5b
As you enter the bay a mini dyke on the right next to a tunnel stands out.Climb this pleasently past 2 bolts to a point where an obvious tricky section looms,press on through to big holds and a 2 bolt LO.FA Si Beal,Andy Scott,Jon Ratcliffe (all led) 25.06.08 -(nb the bottom 1/2 may have been climbed b4 as a very rusty stub was found during cleaning operations)
NURENBURG AREA.
Hawkeye F5c* - New route on extreme left of area behind ventilation tower. 6 Bolts to a new 2 bolt lower off. Reachy! F. A I Lloyd Jones and Colin Goodey.
18thJune 2007
Fresh Air F6a**-New route taking a direct line between Hot air crack and Breaking Wind- This route is close to the old route Breaking Wind, either way it is good and colin had spoken to the FA who was more than happy to have his route retro bolted.
FA-Colin Goodey and Kath Goodey(both led).19th July 2007
State of the Heart F6c+ ** New route behind hot air shaft. Use long quick draws, move right above last bolt. FA Mike Raine 22.03.08 in snow showers!
Yossarian F6b New route. Climbs the overlapping slab between the two obvious aretes. 7 bolts to a double bolt lower off. Move right to pass 3rd bolt on layaways. FA P.A.Targett I.LLoyd-Jones 29.05.08.
Steps of Escher New route F6c
The hanging arete to the right of YOSSARIAN. Pad up the black slab to the foot of the v groove. Swing up and left and follow the line of 5 bolts to a double bolt lower off. Steep climbing on big holds which run out for the crux rockover through the top roof. F.A. P.A.Targett. I.LLoyd-Jones 14.06.08
TOMBS WALL AREA.
(Between Nurenburg and the main slab)
Back in the Saddle F6b 20m *
Start as for tomb raider, after second bolt, go up and left following a line of three more bolts, to a double bolt lower off . really good climbing , tricky move by the third bolt, exciting moves to the lower off !
F.A. Chris.Davies, Ian Loyd Jones, 28/05/09
Tomb Raider F6a,3a,6a/6a+
New 3-pitch sport route.
Start : To the left of the impressive main slab lies a huge complex wall ('Tombs Wall'-my name!) rising over 100ft This route starts below the middle of the wall at a short concrete coated slab.
L1 15m F6a: Climb directly up this slab past 2 bolts to where the slab meets a ramplike arete abuting the wall above.climb over or around the nose(interesting moves!) to gain a series of mantleshelves leading past 4 bolts to a ledge with bolt belays
(to go on from here will cause rope drag and will remove some of the charm!)
L2 8m F3a
Traverse right along Dandelion ledge to gain another airy perch on the far arete-bolt belays.
L3 12m F6a/6a+
Climb directly up the corner to below the roof (2bolts).Either climb directly over the roof 6a+ or move out left and up(bolt) to rejoin the corner 6a .Continue delightfully up the corner crack (3bolts) to a good stance and bolt belays.
FA-Colin Goodey,Sue goodey and Bryn Williams.19th oct.07
362 (F5b, 5c)
The Finger Slicer E3 5c
Climbs the obvious crack line next to the arete beneath the huge tottering block (surprisingly solid) to the left of obsession. Climb the crack and then the block to finish up the corner behind.
FA Calum Muskett 27/03/08Obsession F6b,F5c.
New 2 pitch sport route taking an impressive line up a hitherto unclimbed wall-excellent quality route,rock and situation.
The route lies in the area opposite Never never land slab and behind some mammouth blocs
(Giant boulder area-my name!) start in a hidden bay behind these huge blocs..
L1 17m F6b :Make hard moves to gain a mantleshelf followed by harder moves to gain a sloping shelf(the original layback flake became loose and was removed) crux F6b.Continue up the corner to the foot of a steep slab which leads to a good ledge with bolt belays.7bolts protect.
L2 12m F5c.:Continue up the corner for a few metres before stepping out boldly to the left to gain
the steep 'flying arete'.Climb this in fine position to an impressive mantelshelf finish which leads to a double bolt belay/lower off.-6 bolts and a peg protect. A very fine pitch.
FA : Colin Goodey and Mark Helliwell,June 6th 2008
NB : The top anchors have been placed to allow the route to be done in one pitch using a 60m sport rope.
Igam Ogam E4 6a 3 bolts replaced + Belay Bolt at the top...all bolts now well away from the top section of Never Never Land.(Old Bolts still need to be removed) 4/6/07
The Gargoyl F6a+
New route on S.West wall (walls running at right angles to N.N.Land slabs)
Starts 30m to the right of the entrance to the amphitheatre(turdongorge!!) A hidden facet of slab gives access to the steep wall above(2bolts) This 20' slab ends on an edge below the Gargoyl (bolt) which forms the crux-difficult balance moves allow the gargoyl to be surmounted followed by more awkward moves past 2bolts leading to easier climbing to a double bolt lower off.-15m.
FA: Kath Goodey,Colin Goodey,Del Smith.14th August 2008.
NB: We would appreciate feedback on on our provisional grade-also,as with all new slate routes
loose rock (in spite of cleaning) may be found but will diminish with traffic.
'Machine in the Ghost' seems harsh compared to other slate routes of the same grade. Harder and bolder than Scheherezade.
A few route remain to be re-equipped.
A few route remain to be re-equipped.
There has been a massive rock fall in the shame and embarrassment area, all routes between bar of soap and stairlift to heaven are affected, and possibly some eastern european new routes to be had.
MONKEY BAR AREA.
Home Run E2 5c*. New bolts. belay is already eco anchors. Two bolts added on to top and one above the first bolt. Difficult moves to first lead to a precarious one to reach the second. Ok to top from then.
Patellaectomy E1***. New belay, bolt as already stainless and good. 03/07.
Shock the Monkey f6a. New bolts and LO. 1 additional bolt added. Old bolts need removing with allen key or very big hammer! 16/11/07
Ibex. M8+
A good sustained route with fun moves and a crux near the top, though maybe not the easy warm-up route its builders intended it to be. The route is on the back wall, just right of the tunnel. Start next to the boulder - there may be a Quarryman's clip-stick in place for the first bolt. Monopoints and jug-handle tools pretty much mandatory, or take the M10 tick for a 'Vertiges with homemade leashes and dual-point crampons' ascent.
Route created by Owen Samuel & Rocio Siemens. F.A. Pete Harrison 19/02/09.
Monkey See Monkey Do E2 5b
Start 2m left of patellaectomy-climb direct through the overhang (small wires) to arrive at a horizontal break,traverse this rightward and up a small crack system. A tougher section at the top leads to an easy finish.FA Si Beal,Andy Scott,Nick Harford 23.06.08
Beyond the Pail F7a ,1 bar for aid
Start as for Pail Rider at the 4 shot holes at the base of the wall. Use these ( Don't delve too deep as they're full of water at the back! ) to gain the right hand flake and follow this to a small ledge and the third bolt. Step precariously left to the first shot hole under the bars. Keep going up the wall to the good edge on Patellaectomy and rock over to grab the right hand bar,(a short sling handy for protection) mantle this and head diagonally right to another bolt. Thin moves lead out to the last bolt near the arete, joining Pail Rider for its final moves and lower off. An enjoyable and airy pitch.
F.A Andy Scott, Jon Ratcliffe 25/06/08.
Pail Rider F6c+
Start at the 4 shot holes at the base of the wall and follow the flakes out past three bolts. Thin sidepulls, tasty footwork and a long stride out right to gain the flake out near the arete with a small ledge and bolt. Up the short crack to an awkward mantel onto the ledge below the final arete. Reach out left to clip the last bolt and pull onto the wall and arete with a fierce little pull for the lower off. F.A Andy Scott, Jon Ratcliffe 24/06/08.
A Little Pail F6b+
Starts a couple of metres right of the previous route. Climb the pleasantly delicate shallow groove to a niche, pull into and up this to the base of a short crack on the left and a junction with the previous route. Continue following the 'Pail Rider' to it's lower off, the crux being exactly that.
F.A Jon Ratcliffe, Andy Scott. (25.06.08)
Dyke Rider E2 5b
As you enter the bay a mini dyke on the right next to a tunnel stands out.Climb this pleasently past 2 bolts to a point where an obvious tricky section looms,press on through to big holds and a 2 bolt LO.FA Si Beal,Andy Scott,Jon Ratcliffe (all led) 25.06.08 -(nb the bottom 1/2 may have been climbed b4 as a very rusty stub was found during cleaning operations)
NURENBURG AREA.
Hawkeye F5c* - New route on extreme left of area behind ventilation tower. 6 Bolts to a new 2 bolt lower off. Reachy! F. A I Lloyd Jones and Colin Goodey.
18thJune 2007
Fresh Air F6a**-New route taking a direct line between Hot air crack and Breaking Wind- This route is close to the old route Breaking Wind, either way it is good and colin had spoken to the FA who was more than happy to have his route retro bolted.
FA-Colin Goodey and Kath Goodey(both led).19th July 2007
State of the Heart F6c+ ** New route behind hot air shaft. Use long quick draws, move right above last bolt. FA Mike Raine 22.03.08 in snow showers!Yossarian F6b New route. Climbs the overlapping slab between the two obvious aretes. 7 bolts to a double bolt lower off. Move right to pass 3rd bolt on layaways. FA P.A.Targett I.LLoyd-Jones 29.05.08.
Steps of Escher New route F6c
The hanging arete to the right of YOSSARIAN. Pad up the black slab to the foot of the v groove. Swing up and left and follow the line of 5 bolts to a double bolt lower off. Steep climbing on big holds which run out for the crux rockover through the top roof. F.A. P.A.Targett. I.LLoyd-Jones 14.06.08
TOMBS WALL AREA.
(Between Nurenburg and the main slab)
Back in the Saddle F6b 20m *
Start as for tomb raider, after second bolt, go up and left following a line of three more bolts, to a double bolt lower off . really good climbing , tricky move by the third bolt, exciting moves to the lower off !
F.A. Chris.Davies, Ian Loyd Jones, 28/05/09
Tomb Raider F6a,3a,6a/6a+
New 3-pitch sport route.
Start : To the left of the impressive main slab lies a huge complex wall ('Tombs Wall'-my name!) rising over 100ft This route starts below the middle of the wall at a short concrete coated slab.
L1 15m F6a: Climb directly up this slab past 2 bolts to where the slab meets a ramplike arete abuting the wall above.climb over or around the nose(interesting moves!) to gain a series of mantleshelves leading past 4 bolts to a ledge with bolt belays
(to go on from here will cause rope drag and will remove some of the charm!)
L2 8m F3a
Traverse right along Dandelion ledge to gain another airy perch on the far arete-bolt belays.
L3 12m F6a/6a+
Climb directly up the corner to below the roof (2bolts).Either climb directly over the roof 6a+ or move out left and up(bolt) to rejoin the corner 6a .Continue delightfully up the corner crack (3bolts) to a good stance and bolt belays.
FA-Colin Goodey,Sue goodey and Bryn Williams.19th oct.07
A super 2 pitch sport route.The name of this route is the number of quarrymen who died while working the Dinorwic Quarry. Before climbing in this awesome historical place, remember its past and the people involved in creating our playground.
The route starts on the left hand side of Never Never Land Slab, between ‘Rodent to Nowhere’ and ‘Scheherezade’, on the arête.
1, 16m, 5b: A tricky start leads to easier climbing following the line of bolts up the arête to a sloping ledge with double bolt lower off.
2, 7m, 5c: Step up the steep wall behind the belay to a good ledge, rest and make a powerful move up to gain better holds on the small arête, then mantle onto the belay ledge as for ‘Tomb Raider’ pitch 2 (lower-offs to follow).
FA Bryn Williams & Colin Goodey, 29th October 2007
nb. a 3rd pitch was attempted but defeated due to very loose rock and the natural line following Rodent to Nowhere
The Finger Slicer E3 5c
Climbs the obvious crack line next to the arete beneath the huge tottering block (surprisingly solid) to the left of obsession. Climb the crack and then the block to finish up the corner behind.
FA Calum Muskett 27/03/08
New 2 pitch sport route taking an impressive line up a hitherto unclimbed wall-excellent quality route,rock and situation.
The route lies in the area opposite Never never land slab and behind some mammouth blocs
(Giant boulder area-my name!) start in a hidden bay behind these huge blocs..
L1 17m F6b :Make hard moves to gain a mantleshelf followed by harder moves to gain a sloping shelf(the original layback flake became loose and was removed) crux F6b.Continue up the corner to the foot of a steep slab which leads to a good ledge with bolt belays.7bolts protect.
L2 12m F5c.:Continue up the corner for a few metres before stepping out boldly to the left to gain
the steep 'flying arete'.Climb this in fine position to an impressive mantelshelf finish which leads to a double bolt belay/lower off.-6 bolts and a peg protect. A very fine pitch.
FA : Colin Goodey and Mark Helliwell,June 6th 2008
NB : The top anchors have been placed to allow the route to be done in one pitch using a 60m sport rope.
Igam Ogam E4 6a 3 bolts replaced + Belay Bolt at the top...all bolts now well away from the top section of Never Never Land.(Old Bolts still need to be removed) 4/6/07
The Gargoyl F6a+
New route on S.West wall (walls running at right angles to N.N.Land slabs)
Starts 30m to the right of the entrance to the amphitheatre(turdongorge!!) A hidden facet of slab gives access to the steep wall above(2bolts) This 20' slab ends on an edge below the Gargoyl (bolt) which forms the crux-difficult balance moves allow the gargoyl to be surmounted followed by more awkward moves past 2bolts leading to easier climbing to a double bolt lower off.-15m.
FA: Kath Goodey,Colin Goodey,Del Smith.14th August 2008.
NB: We would appreciate feedback on on our provisional grade-also,as with all new slate routes
loose rock (in spite of cleaning) may be found but will diminish with traffic.
chrisdavies |
Latest page update: made by chrisdavies
, Jun 17 2009, 4:52 PM EDT
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| Started By | Thread Subject | Replies | Last Post | ||
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| colinandsue | Project in bay to right of the Ghengis and Andy pandy. | 3 | Jun 11 2009, 5:54 PM EDT by chrisdavies | ||
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Thread started: Apr 24 2009, 3:03 PM EDT
Watch
I have over the last several moths been trying a blocky wall in this area (I have to say on a rope) and to day I thought I would equip it and place lower off,However,I notice chalk on most of the Big flat blocky holds-so someone has either done it but not written it up or are working it.This is fine by me but please let me know if you wish to continue and finish the route -in which case I shall abandon my efforts.
All good wishes. Colin. |
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| chrisdavies | NEW ROUTE- NEVER NEVER LAND | 1 | Jun 5 2009, 5:15 PM EDT by chrisdavies | ||
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Thread started: May 30 2009, 1:09 PM EDT
Watch
"BACK IN THE SADDLE" (6B) 20m *
Start as for tomb raider, after second bolt, go up and left following a line of three more bolts, to a double bolt lower off . really good climbing , tricky move by the third bolt! firest ascent, C.Davies, Ian Loyd Jones, 28/05/09 p.s (first ascent was done without the fourth bolt in place, but i will be putting it in shortly, just to keep it a bit more sporty!) |
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| chrisdavies | bolt placement | 3 | Apr 27 2009, 6:14 AM EDT by dragondraig | ||
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Thread started: Apr 15 2009, 6:54 PM EDT
Watch
on some of the routes that i have repeated in the never never land area recently, i have noticed that some bolt placements are in areas of poor or hollow rock, when more solid rock is available very close by, the belay on pitch one of Tomb Raider is a good example, if you tap the rock around the bolts it sounds hollow, i appreciate some pieces of rock become more hollow with time and weather.
when placeing bolts on slate, try and find the largest and most solid area of rock available. p.s. this is not ment as me having a go , but as a reminder to anybody who may be thinking of new routing on the slate, and is not aware of how brittle and hollow slate can be, hope this may be of use! |
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