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Serengeti
SEAMSTRESS SLAB
Karabiner Cruise boulder problem. 6c 2 Bolts Replaced. 4/6/07
Diagonal Dilemma F7a / 7a+(?) Previously unrecorded route follows the rising crackline from Karabiner Cruise clipping bolts on Karabiner Cruise, No Problem + Y Gwaedlyd to lower off (previously E5 6c) FA I Lloyd-Jones 7/91
No Problem E4 6b 2 Bolts Replaced. 4/6/07
Y Gwaedlyd F6c 2 Bolts Replaced + 2 added + Lower off 4/6/07
Silent Homecoming E2 6a bolts replaced 24/7/08 Diagonal Dilemma F7a / 7a+(?) Previously unrecorded route follows the rising crackline from Karabiner Cruise clipping bolts on Karabiner Cruise, No Problem + Y Gwaedlyd to lower off (previously E5 6c) FA I Lloyd-Jones 7/91
No Problem E4 6b 2 Bolts Replaced. 4/6/07
Y Gwaedlyd F6c 2 Bolts Replaced + 2 added + Lower off 4/6/07
Balance of power E4. New Bolts 1/07
Out of Africa E4. New Bolt. 1/07
Slug Club Special E4. New Bolts. 1/07
Windows of perception new bolt + peg replaced 7/08
Windows of perception new bolt + peg replaced 7/08
The Medium F8a. New Bolts. 1/07
Heading the Shot E5/F7a. The bolts and the peg have now been replaced with shiny new stainless steel. New Lower off. 1/07
Watch me Wallaby Wank Frank E3 6a. After the peg was removed by a falling climber several years back this has been replaced with a new bolt to protect the last move.
Squashing the acropods E1 5a new bolt
Watch me Wallaby Wank Frank E3 6a. After the peg was removed by a falling climber several years back this has been replaced with a new bolt to protect the last move.
Squashing the acropods E1 5a new bolt
Peter Pan E2 6a/ F6a+. This route was described back in 1992 as being bolted, the studs were there but the bolts have long been 2to F5 at this grade, a harder m225ore perplexing direct can lead straight to the lower off
Nick the Chisel F7b. Re-equipped as sports route and the line straightened out to a lower off. 2/07 (Font 6c+/7a boulder problem past the first bolt...brilliant moves and 2 ways of doing it depending on height. Jon R)
Alt Start to Nick the Chisel F6a+. Starts just to the right of Nick the Chisel, then follow that line to lower off. 2/07.
F.A: Pete Robins (maybe Fr6b? J.R)
F.A: Pete Robins (maybe Fr6b? J.R)
YELLOW WALL
Short Staircase to the Stars E3. New bolt placed slightly lower than before. 10/06
Slipper People E2. New Bolts 199? (resin eco), New Lower off. 10/06
Tentative descisions E5 new bolt 7/08
Tentative descisions E5 new bolt 7/08
The Great Curve E2. New bolts one bolt was added lower down but the route is still bold and shared lower off with Remain in Light. 10/06
Remain in Light E4. New bolts and Lower off. 10/06
Long Distance Runner E3. New bolt to replace the high peg and lower off. 10/06
OPPOSITE SEAMSTRESS AREA Laund arete. E4 6b new bolts and lower off 07/08
One for all . 17mF4b/4c -New climb on right hand edge of crag opposite Seamstress slab
.Start on an airy ledge overlooking Never never land slab(bolt belay for security) and below the prominent green slabby pillar.4 bolts lead up suberb 'greenstone' to a double ring lower off.
FA :Colin and Sue Goodey. 4/408.
All for One. 17m F4c/5a.
New route to right of 'One for all' on the big green tower. Start 5m right of this route climbing the clean green slabs past 2 bolts with tricky move past second bolt(crux).Easier ground now leads out to the right on good holds to gain the delightful crest of the obviouse arete-this leads up on huge holds in fine position past a further 2 bolts and a peg to a lower off.
FA: Morgan Goodsmith,Colin Goodey,Del Goodey 5/5/08
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jonnyr |
Latest page update: made by jonnyr
, Oct 26 2009, 7:09 AM EDT
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| Started By | Thread Subject | Replies | Last Post | ||
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| MarkBaggyRichards | Great Curve | 1 | Jul 4 2009, 6:28 AM EDT by guddays | ||
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Thread started: Jun 12 2008, 5:13 PM EDT
Watch
Good route but is it 5c ? feels more like 5 b max. Views ? Worth doing and the E4 to the left which is good and well bolted.
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| rogerwhetton | Peter Pan | 3 | Jul 4 2009, 6:25 AM EDT by guddays | ||
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Thread started: May 18 2007, 11:58 AM EDT
Watch
Probably F6b in the Peak with the 'stepping left' variant (which is loose) getting F5+.
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| cidernut | Stick's Groove now clean! | 0 | Sep 21 2008, 6:01 PM EDT by cidernut | ||
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Thread started: Sep 21 2008, 6:01 PM EDT
Watch
I decided there was a defecit of (known about) climbable VSs in the quarries despite there being lots in the book, so I thought I'd attempt to make another one available for the masses... I cleaned Stick's Groove today. It's a reasonable looking but neglected line, a shortish VS 4b groove up the right hand side of the Peter Pan wall (easily located using the guide book). I removed all the mud and vegation out of the crack, brushed off the holds, and rediscovered some potential pro and a ledge to stand on at the base of the groove. It looks like it takes a bit of run off from above which is probably why the vegation crept onto/into it, but if it gets some traffic I think it may well stay clean. I didn't have time to climb it myself as my friends were busy having an elongated ascent elsewhere, but the moves look nice and I'll be on it next time I'm up there. I'd be interested what people think if they climb it. It looks like there are a couple of nut placements so not as bold as it first may look, although don't hold me to that. Hopefully one to encourage people onto the trad, and to spread the load away from Seamstress and Zambesi. Take a big sling and a small cam (0.3 camalot) for the belay.
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Keyword tags:
cleaning
Stick's Groove
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