Dinorwig Slate Quarries Guide - Recently Updated Pages

Australia

ILLJ — Fri, 18 Dec 2009 10:21:45 CST

LOONING THE TUBE LEVEL.

Puddy Kat F5. New route left of Just for Fun. Climb the cleaned flake/groove upto the central ledge. Make a tricky move up the cleaned slab above. 2 B.R.'S protect to a twin bolt belay. 14/05/09. Jim Kelly/ Julia Kelly.

Just for Fun E2*. New bolts one replacing a peg and Lower off. 09/06

The Burning E3. (More like Fr 6b/+) New Bolts and Lower off. 06

The Deceptive **** F5+*. New Route left of NE Spur. new bolts and lower off. 09/06 I agree with the star, this is worth climbing - it's unusual as greenstone and quartzite make it unlike other slate routes
1066 F6b. New route right of deceptive ****. 3 bolts to lower off. sustained. P. Targett. T. Hughes 27/08 Does this climb the groove just to the right of the previous route? This felt to be the obvious line when climbed yet the bolting suggested trying to climb the wall to the right more directly?? (Route climbs the wall to the right of the groove direct and has a couple of thin moves. Lower off needs replacing but it is easy to top out and belay at the top on bolts above the burning)

Loony Tunes E3 5c. New lower off, existing bolts are stainless steel.

Brief Encounter ** E1 5b. New bolts and Lower off. 09/06

Donald Duck F6c+. New Rope Lower off and mallion in tree. 09/06 2 bolts replaced + 2 bolts added 2/06/07

Gadaffi Duck F6b+*. new bolts and lower off. One bolt added. 03/07

Sad Man Who’s Sane VS 4c. Climb the slab just right of Gadaffi Duck moving occassionally left to the arete. Cleaning up with ascents

U.B.L. F4/HS 4b. Right of Sad Man Who's Sane, climb the slab/arete just left of Turn of the century pasttwo bolts with single bolt lower-off. 09/06

Hyperfly 6b Arete left of turn of the century. 4 bolts. Twin bolt lower off added today 2/3/08 . P.Targett and I Lloyd-Jones 23/08/07

Turn of the Century** E2 5c Re-equipped and new Lower off. 09/06

Maximum Tariff **6b. New route. Quality reachy climbing taking the obvious crack passing 4 bolts to a lower off. P. Targett. I Lloyd-Jones. P. Walley. 07/09/07 (you can top rope Buffolo Smashed in Head Jump off the lower off from this route but, it's a lot harder than the guide books E2 5c would suggest, very poorly protected 6a I thought MR)

Dried mouth sesame seed.HVS5a benefits from two bolts and a lower off. loose block trundled.06/08

Technical hamster 6c New route. Boulder problem arete right of dried mouth sesame seed. 2 bolts and lower off. Lower off bolt replaced today with ring bolt 2/3/08 (technical hamsters will climb the arete direct on the left hand side!!). P Targett and T Hughes 06/08/07

Technical Hamster Dance HVS 4b
Arete direct on right hand side, feel free to retrobolt.
Erict 24/8/07C

Goose Creature E3 6a. Re-bolted. 09/06 good bolting and good climbing! (low in grade MR)

Menai Vice E4 6c or 6b (debate!!!). Re-bolted one bolt added just below the top to protect the top out. 09/06

Looning The Tube E1 5b Traverse above the pipe to the rusty spike, then climb the crack. New bolt low down, old bolt in top crack remains. (probably VS MR)

Zzzooming The Tube E3 6a New route. Start as for Looning the Tube to the spike, traverse right and make a commiting move up to clip the 1st bolt, pass a 2nd bolt to a lower off left of the tree (note: when lowering off aim for the Tube (easy) FA - I Lloyd-Jones and T Hughes 21/08/07
I cleaned this route today pulling off at least 6 loose flakes including the loose one by the crux. It is now very solid!!The crux is still 6a (though a little harder) and the rest of the route is now slightly easier than on the 1st Ascent. We then re climbed it....I Lloyd-Jones and P Targett 8/10/07

Pruning The Tube E2. Old Peg Replace with bolt. 11/06

LEVEL ABOVE LOONING THE TUBE.
(By the Looning the Tube Bolt Belay)

Sport 4 All F4+ New route. Climbs the groove left of Kinder Surprise 2 bolts lead the way to a 2 bolt lower off above the square roof.FA Ian Lloyd-Jones 2/10/07

Kinder Surprise F4+ New route. Climbs the slanting line just above the Looning the Tube Belay Bolt, 3 bolts to a lower off. FA I Lloyd-Jones, P Targett 7/09/07

Surprise Surprise F5c New route to the right of Kinder Surprise passing three bolts the start is very tricky and the bolts harder to clip than the routes in Dali's Hole (Though considerably easier than some of the clips in Twll Mawr!!!!!!!)FA Ian Lloyd-Jones 11/09/07
Shorty's Dyno F6c/6a?New route left of Orangutang Overhang 3 bolts to a lower off. A great dyno for the short...a straightforward reach for the tall...FA I Lloyd-Jones and P Targett (both led) 13/9/07

Orangutang Overhang F6a+ New route. Climbs the technical groove (left of CWSH) before tackling the entertaining roof...5 bolts lead the way to a 2 Bolt lower off. FA Ian Lloyd-Jones, T Hughes, P Targett 28/08/07

Cyber World Sl@te Heads F6a+ New route. Climbs the groove up to the right hand side of the large roof, 5 bolts lead the way to a 2 Bolt Lower off on the large flake. FA I Lloyd-Jones, P Targett, T Hughes 27/08/07
Large Block pulled off this route 2/11/07

Steps of Glory F5 New route. Climbs the slaby wall to the right of Cyber World Sl@te Heads. 2 bolts lead to a ledge 3 further bolts and some nice stepped edges lead the way to a 2 bolt lower off. FA Mark Chambers, Christian Roots, Ian Pagano (All Led) 2/3/08

The Groovy Gang. severe. Takes the obvious groove in the corner over to the right of the broken slabs. Nice moves but no pro. FA P Targett solo 04/06/07

THE SIDINGS LEVEL.
This level now has a number of good routes, although short are well bolted and on good rock accross the lower french grades. This area is well worth the walk up and is in the sun after 11.00am great for winter climbing.
PLEASE TAKE CARE IF PEOPLE ARE CLIMBING ON RAILTRACK SLAB BELOW. LAST SUNDAY A BIT OF SLATE NARROWLY MISSED A CLIMBER

15/08/09 - Visited the sidings for the first time today, was impressed with the standard of bolting,apartfrom the lowersoff's. All the lower off crabs are terribly rusty and look out of place next to the shiny stainless steel expansion bolts.

Gentle LayBack V0- To the left of Shothole arete using the last obvious slab feature layback from a SDS. E Russell 03/04/09

Shothole Arete V0 Climb the arete with a shothole in it! E Russell 03/04/09

Loose Block Corner V0 Pull on the loose block tentatively then continue up the dirty corner. Would be worthwhile after lots of traffic.E Russell 03/04/09

Puffing Billy V0+ Ten paces to the left of 'N' Gauge there is a small tree growing out of the slate. To the left of this is a corner. Climb the corner with a couple of nice moves. 30/08/08 Charlie Jordan (solo)

With a Little Help From A Tree V2/3 Start beneath the tree, the crux is getting the tree and then continue upwards with assitance from the tree and left hand arete. Highball! E Russell 03/04/09

GLASS AXE E5 7a 7-8m.
The left facing groove just to the left of `N`Gauge`,very tricky!
F/A, Andy Woodward, (solo) summer of 86!
p.s. I believe the route can now be done by clipping the bolts on the next route,with a potential swing at the top if you fall, allthough obviously not E5 for that tick!
(drilled some lower offs holes above top of groove , will put in soon as)(06/12)

'N' Gauge F5b/c?(info on uk climbing logbooks says loose flake gone and overgraded at 6a) Follows narrow pillar at the most left end of this level. 4 bolts + twin Bolt lower-off. Nov/07 Josie Ball - age 10.

Side line F4c Climbs out right from first bolt of 'N' Gauge 5 bolts + twin Bolt lower-off.27/1/08 Josie Ball.

Derailed F4b Climbs the corner just left of "Thomas the tank" start direct then move right. 3 bolts + twin bolt lower-off. 27/1/08 Josie Ball.

Thomas the Tank * F4a line between "'n'Gauge" and "Sodor" following slabby rock with crux at the top.4 bolts + twin Bolt lower-off. 16/12/2007 Archie Ball - 5 years old.

Rack and Pin ** F5b+ line left ofSodor corner + slab crux passing top bolt. 4 bolts + twin Bolt lower-off. 16/12/2007 Josie Ball

Sodor ** F5c Follows the hairline crack left of the centre of the wall , where the crack terminates at the horizontal feature continue straight up to lower-off 4 bolts + twin Bolt lower-off. 13/10/ 07 Josie Ball - age 10.

The Mallard ** F5c Line between Sodor + Polar express - slab line 4 bolts + twin Bolt lower-off. 16/12/2007 Josie Ball

Above The Line. HVS 4c (or so it says in the last two guide books)

Alternative start hvs 5b. Climbs the thin crack right of the normal start to Above the line to its traverse. Follow this to the top. May have been done before. P.Targett solo 05/10/07

Polar Express * F5b, Utilises Phils start ? to continue direct where ATL goes right ,4 bolts + twin Bolt lower-off. 13/10/07 Josie Ball - age 10

Ivor the Engine F5a climbs the slab to the right of last route crux at the top. 3 bolts + twin Bolt lower-off. 27/1/08 Josie Ball.

Gordon * F3c Slab and corner right hand side of the slab. 3 bolts + twin Bolt lower-off. 16/12/2007 Archie Ball.

The Level Crossing F5c ** A traverse of the slab following the distinct break at half height, start up "Rack and pin" then follow break to finish at "Ivor the Engine". 7 bolts + twin bolt lower-off. 27/1/08 Josie Ball.

'Those who climb clearly marked projects are the kind of people who would steal the chocolate bar from a kids lunch box - selfish tossers, who owe the bolt fund cash' **- F5b/c - 4 bolts + twin Bolt lower-off FA C Parkin 2.8.1986 re-equipped Feb 2008.

A not so new route, soloed in August 1986 at the same time as Above The Line, but never claimed at the time. The groove "nich" route 50m right of Polar Express.

Choo Choo F5a/5b Arete and groove right of last route 4 bolts + twin bolt lower off. 28/2/08 Josie Ball. One of the final jugs is very loose & the whole piece lifts vertically about half an inch. Be warned. Not using it makes the route a grade or two harder but safer.

Hogwarts Express F5c? Climbs the stepped corner 55m of "Gordon" crux at top josie moved left at top due to lack of reach so not sure of the grade for direct. 3 bolts + twin bolt lower-off. 27/1/08 Josie Ball .

The Railway Children * F5c/6a ( did route at last about 5c for tall 6foot plus harder for short , with start and finish being much more difficult , must have been 6a+ for josie at her height! ) Climbs bouldery wall to good jug then right onto neat wall. 5 bolts + twin lower-off. 15/2/08 Josie Ball.( grade was difficult due to josies height and LONG reach at top)

In Loving Memory * F6b Climbs the line to the right of last route 5 bolts + twin bolt lower off.Difficult to grade due to Josies height. 14/4/08 Josie Ball.

FRUITBAT LEVEL.

Eric the Friutbat E2 5c bolt replaced with resin anchor. old bolt and duff stainless still in situ., feel free to tidy it up, loose rock also removed, there's lots of poor cam placements upto the bolt, which may be lasso-able. 10/07

PROJECT - groove and roof to the left of the next route, will get sorted as soon as the stupid weather stops effin raining!!
cheers, chris davies.

PROJECT - bolted line up the smooth steep wall about 20 metres to the right of `stretched limo` , will get it done just as soon as i`m able to work out how to reach the bloody holds on the crux move , and then link it all together.
cheers, chris davies.

ZIPPY LEVEL.

Jepp Knave 7b. ** New route taking the first line on the steep wall as you enter the level. A hard rockover leftwards passing the first bolt leads to good holds. Layaway up the steep rib to the obvious sloper. Another couple of difficult moves allow you to stand on this to gain the ledge. The belay awaits above. 5 bolts to a resin lower off. The middle section is sustained. FA Phil Targett and Chris Davies 28/10/09

Last Chance for a Slow Dance E3 5b New Route taking the cleaned flake line on the steep wall left of the azorback routes. Climb direct to the start of the flake line and climb this with improving gear to a blunt spike at its apex. From here traverse right into the bay and finish as for ...and a pen please. Mark Dicken unsec. 2/11/07.

In on the Kill Taker E4/5 6b starting up last chance for a slow dance to the blunt spike. Stand on it and lean out for the bolt. Traverse past onto the overlap and straight up the cleaned holds to the top. opportunity for 20 odd feet of cleanish air if messed up. M Dicken M. Reeves 8/8/08

The Beanstalk F7a . ** NEW ROUTE.
a brill line with three distinct dificult sections. Start about 10m to the right of LCFASD,move up and right passing the first two bolts to a jug, and the third bolt, move left and up to the fourth(crux), a sling placement on LCFASD, if you want it, then pass the fifth bolt on the way to the double bolt lower off. really nice climbing!!
CHRIS DAVIES and PHIL TARGETT 07/10/09.

Rastaman vibration E1 5c bolt replaced and one added (orig a peg) block trundled. 10/07

Putting on Ayres E4 6c bolts replaced 10/07

Feeling Rusty? F6a+ New Route.Climbs the slab by the rusty streak next to Putting on Ayres. 5 Bolts lead to a bolt lower off. FA Ian Lloyd-Jones and Chris Davies (Both Lead) 24/09/09

Zippies 1st acid trip E1 5b bolt replaced 10/07
Project. The wall left of Ziplock. lower off in place. Nice to get on a new project after my protracted faffing on the last one! cheers Phil.

Ziplock F7b ** New Route. Climbs a line of 7 bolts (to a lower off) on the wall right of 'Zippies First Acid Trip'. A good steep sports climb similar in style to some of the Sports Routes on Rainbow Walls. FA Ian Lloyd-Jones and Phil Targett 17/9/09

Indiana Jasmine And The Topple of Doom!
HVS 5a / F5+* Wall and arete about 15 ft round to the right of ziplock. nice solid climbing past three slightly spaced bolts, to a top out. sling and metal post belays are fairly obvious!
FA. Chris Davies and Ian LLoyd Jones,(both lead). 24/09/09.

De Nouement 7a/7a+*
Takes the wall right of the obvious trad crack line (samba drum) and just left of the corner. This is the obvious vertical wall 50 yards right of ziplock.
Nice climbing up the line of 6 bolts to a double resin lower off. Hard moves past the second and fifth bolts add the spice.
F.A. Phil Targett and Owen Jones. 08/10/09.

RAILTRACK SLAB.

Mad on the Metro E4 . New Bolts and Lower-off. The original ring bolt was left in to aid identification.09/06

Geboa Racer E3. The bolts were place recently and look OK. A new bolt to protect the loose top out has been added. 09/06

Patio Doors of Perception E3. New lower off. 09/06

The Fat Controller F6a New route left of Red Throated Diver 5 Bolts + Lower Off. FA - P Targett and I Lloyd-Jones (Both Led) 22 / 06 / 07

Scarface Claw F6a+ New route between The Fat Controller and Red Throated Diver 6 Bolts to lower off FA - I Lloyd-Jones and P Targett 23/08/07

Red Throated Diver E3 6a**. New bolts one added to protect a boulder problem start and Lower-off. 09/06

2nd Class Passenger E2 5c*. New bolts one added at the bottom to protect the starting moves and one in the slightly friable groove at the top and Lower off. 10/06

Sleeper F6c New Route to the right of 2nd Class Passenger 6 bolts + Belay / Abseil Bolt. FA - I Lloyd-Jones and P Targett (Both Led) 4 / 6 /07

Crazy Train F6b+ New Route left of Ancestral Vices 8 bolts. FA - I Lloyd-Jones and P Targett (Both Led) 22/ 06 /07

Ancestral Vices E4 6b *. New Bolts two bolts added below where the first one was to protect the friable start and Lower off. 10/06

Off the Beaten Track E3 5c ***. New bolts plus 3 added to protect the friable start. 10/06

Uncle Nick's Broken Toe E5 6bStarts to the left of 'Between...' under the middle of a small overlap, possibly high in the grade? Make some technical unprotected moves up to a good hold above the overlap. From here climb direct up to the bolt on 'Here To Stay...', totally unprotected but for sky hooks but thankfully not very difficult. Finish as for 'Here To Stay...' or over to the left at a similar grade.

F.A. Calum Muskett sep 2009 (the Nick mentioned was belaying!)

Between Here & Now E4 6a. Two bolts added lower down and then re-equipped higher up. Lower off. 3/07

Here to stay, Gone Tomorrow. E4 6a. Re-equipped it is possible to start up Between Here and now and traverse into this route, E3 if done this way.3/07.

Psychodelicate F?. The start of this route fell down, and has been rebolted a little to the left of the original start, and has had more bolts added to the top slab. IT HAS NOT BEEN RECLIMBED YET. 3/07.

BLOCK BELOW THE RAIL TRACK.
The obvious large boulder below railtrack slab.

Dekophobia. F7a. 7 bolts to lower off

Open Project holes drilled & a lower off in place to the right of dekophobia.

Son of Rabbit. E2. Crack line to the right of Dekophobia. (trad line).

Temple of Boom. 5.9. Offwidth to the right of Son of Rabbit. (Trad line).

My Secret Garden. F7a+ new route on pyramid boulder beyond dekophobia block. 9m, 3 bolts. Step off Rodin's podium onto the initial slab, turn the roof, and pad tenuously up the centre of the upper slab to slap for the summit. FA Mark Dicken, Gruff Owen (both led) 4/5/7

THE GORBALS LEVEL.

Slab Rog F6b+ * 17m New Route. Climbs the slab to the left of 'The Shinning' some thin stereotypical slate moves passing 5 resin bolts will hopefully lead to the lower off. FA Ian Lloyd-Jones (Solo) 4/12/09

As yet unnamed?E36a Start between sprint finish and NW face of the aga, climb up to a bolt before moving up and right to clip the first bolt on NW Face, then head up and right to clip the top bolt on sprint finish before making headway slightly left to a final bolt passing this and reaching the top is the crux.

Sprint Finish E1/F6a?? Re-equipped/retrobolted (3 bolts top out BB).

As Yet Unnamed F5b. The right hand side of the slab past 3 bolts (top out BB).

See You Bruce E3. New Bolts one below the first to protect the starting moves on loose rock and one above the last to protect the last moves and lower off. 10/06

Gorbals E4. New bolts the first bolt was lowered and the RURP replaced with a higher bolt, another bolt was added below as the rock is friable, and although there is gear it is all behind loose flakes, another bolt may well be added to the start because the gear was poorer than initialy thought when it was re-equipped and Lower off. 10/06

SALT PANS AREA.

THE AUSTRALIAN E3 5c. . this arete can be approached from the end of the 'Salt Pans' level . it is the arete at the very end of the level , now has three bolts! good climbing.( One bolt added lower down and a lower-off placed.10/06).

p.s the arete below that was described as`` the australian`` before, is as far as i am aware non exsistant as a route!

The Stream of Obscenity. F7a. Bolted route between Kosciusko and the australian.

Down Under Pans Level
(The Level below the Salt Pans)

Narcolepsy F7a+. Lower off added, bolted route on the obvious ledge broken slab. 10/06

Y Rhaffwr F6b+ * 15m New Route. Climbs the clean arete further along from the Narcolepsy Slab. Good quality slate and some great moves make this arete worth seeking out. 5 Resin bolts lead to a lower off. FA Ian Lloyd-Jones and Chris Davies 18/12/09

THE ROGNON.

Abattoir Blues E2 5b*.New Route, three bolts to top. Scramble up to the first bolt then climb the arete a cheval, second bolt is a tricky clip, move onto front face above it.

Single Factor E2*. New Bolts one added to help seperate the climbing from Genital Persuasion 10/06 Very bold to clip 2nd bolt.

Genital Persuasion E3*. New Bolts one added to help seperate it from is neighbour 10/06. 4 bolts, third one is wood! Easy to clip now but in a few years you will need a sling to put round it!

SKYLINE BUTTRESS LEVEL.

Antiquity E1 5a. 40m.
Both pegs replaced with bolts, and a new bolt added to protect the upper insecure groove.climb act naturally till level with the first bolt ,then traverse left nervously to clip it, then up and slightly left to the second, and up past third bolt to the top, some loose rock, care needed! Quite nervie in the lower reaches until the first of the bolts is clipped.
Not the best HVS in the quarries, not even close. Worth a star and E1.
(cleaned the traverse to the first bolt, now a little bit less nervie!) 10/09.

The Skyline Club, E2 5b/c S 45m.
Start just left of Act Naturaly, climb the blunt rib/arete, past the first two bolts until you get to the first bolt of Antiquity.climb up and right , following a line towards the upper hanging arete. climb direct over the roof, and mantle up to the bolt,(crux), and go straight up past the next two bolts to a top out, and double bolt belay. brilliant positions, and excellent climbing!!!
F.A. CHRIS DAVIES, PHIL TARGETT. 01/10/09.
p.s. if you dont do the roof direct, you dont get the full tick!

Act Naturally VS 4b.
A good route at the grade following the right trending groove crossing dr strangelove at just below half hight. Reliable gear with 40m of climbing to finish on 'summit'!

Ruby Marlee meets Dr Holingsworth F6a. 40m.
Another big safe climb with atmos! climbs the wall to the left of Dr Stranglove, via a weaving line of ten bolts. climb Act Naturally to the top of first ramp and then follow the bolts to a top out! belay off two bolts.
F.A. CHRIS DAVIES, I.LLOYD-JONES.16/06/09.

Methane Monster E2.
A reasonable proposition for the grade, with a new belay as for BTT.

Billy Two Tokes E1 5b.
New bolt (04/07) to back up the peg. Bottom ten feet grubby, but the climbing is easy. Still some loose rock, but this will be removed in the fullness of time. New belay bolt .

Plastic Soldier F5+/6a. 40m New Route.
Climbs the large slab left of Lindy Lou, 13 bolts lead the way, belay on the large flake .FA Ian Lloyd-Jones, Phil Targett, Sam Beesley (all Lead) 15/04/09 Bolt Belay added on flat slate block + damaged bolt replaced (16/08/09).

Clash of the Titans F6a. 40m New Route.
Climbs the large Slab between Lindy Lou and Plastic Soldier, 16 bolts lead the way, belay on the large flake. FA Ian Lloyd-Jones, Chris Davies (both lead) 16/6/09 Bolt Belay added on flat slate block (as above)

Mad Dog of the West HVS 5a.
New belay bolt added on back wall. What a brilliant route: Yosemite comes to Llanberis!

Harri Bach Llanrug F6a 18m New Route. Climbs the wall to the left of 'Put it on the Slate Waiter' on the far end of Skyline Level. Start by the obvious Flake Crack and follow the line of 6 bolts to a lower off. Named after my Great Grandfather who spent 54 years of his life working as a Quarryman in the Dinorwic Quarries. FA Ian Lloyd-Jones and Chris Davies (Both Lead) 12/11/09

Toe be or not Toe be F7b 12m New Route Climbs the clean slab to the right of 'Put it on the slate waiter'. Execute a 'Poetry Pink' style mantle-shelf to get established on the slab, easier climbing leads to the stopper 'Time Bandit' / 'Menai Vice' like crux (possibly British 6c) by the fourth bolt. FA Ian Lloyd-Jones 21/10/09

THE FAR AWAY TOP LEVEL.
Above the huge scree slope and by an arched tunnel into the mountain.

Easy Routes can have Bolts Too F5+. Wall to the right of the small through tunnel on the left as you enter the level proper. 2 bolts protect.
F.A Si Beal (31.03.07)

Don't Look Back in Bangor E3 5b. On the wall to the left of the 'Wish you were here' wall. Start below the right hand end of a large leftward sloping ledgewith a big rock on it . Climb the pleasant corner/lay back crack to the ledge and step left to below the left facing groove. Set off up this heading to the obvious blocky jugs below the superb hand jamming crack, interesting moves into and up this lead to a small ledge below the final short corner. Good boulder belays behind wall.
F.A: Jon Ratcliffe, Steve Franklin and Andy Scott. (06.06.08) On sight.

A Room With A View F7b. Takes a line of weakness up the wall to the right of 'Dont look back in Bangor' through an obvious rock scar. A 'french' start leads into a sustained, technical and pumpy lower wall to a cool crux move left to a crack and so to good holds below the rock scar. Finish by exiting rightwards out of the 'scar' via a couple of long pulls to a double lower off. 7 bolts protect.
F.A: Jon Ratcliffe, Rob Lamey. (14.06.08)

N.B There is an 'access' bolt on a small dolorite block above the next wall.

The Faffer E6 6b. Climbs the diagonal crack on the left hand side of the 'Wish you were here' wall to a double lower off. A hard and sequency first half passing a crucial and hard to place small wire leads to the break and a slight easing in the second half with better gear. (fr 7b+ish climbing??,pretty well protected really).
F.A Jon Ratcliffe. (11.06.08) Headpointed, all gear placed on lead without faff.

Wish you Were Here F7c. Awesome new route up leftward facing flake.
F.A: Jon Ratcliffe. [31.03.07]

The Very Old And The Very New C2+/C3
New clean aid route taking the hairline crack to the left of wish u were here, it has a couple of bolts to protect the fragile lower gear placements and a very thin finish.

F.A: Si Beal [17.02.07]

AUSTRALIA EAST.
Follow 'the stairs of Cirith Ungol' and enjoy some routes in the evening sun....
Only 10 minutes walk from the Looning the Tube Level!

THE BOTTANY BAY LEVEL.

Snakes and Ladders F4 Climbs the obvious slabby feature on the Botany Bay Level, 7 bolts lead to a lower off / belay. FA Ian Lloyd-Jones 29/01/09

Wave Rock F6c Climbs the attractive 'Wave' feature on the steep wall between Sylvanian Waters and Botany Bay, 7 bolts lead to a lower off. FA Ian Lloyd-Jones 21/02/09

Impact Zone F7a 16m New Route. Follow Wave Rock to the 4th Bolt before breaking left out of the groove; follow the line of bolts to a lower off. A technically interesting and sustained route on good rock. FA Ian Lloyd-Jones and Phil Targett (Both Lead) 06/03/09

The Road to Botany Bay F7a 5 bolts to a lower off. Bolts replaced / added 19/3/08

THE G`DAY LEVEL

Walk this way F6c New route left of Hogiau Pen Garett. Start by climbing the tricky / reachy shallow groove to gain the ledge above, foot traverse across the face using tiny but positive handholds for balance, a better hold and a precarious stride gains the arete, continue up the slab with some tricky moves initially, easing to gain the lower off above. 9 Bolts lead the way. F.A. Ian Lloyd-Jones and Sam Beesley 2/6/08

Hogiau Pen Garett F6a+ New route left of Koala Brothers. Start to the right of the rusty pipe and cable, 8 bolts lead the way to a double bolt lower off. F.A. I Lloyd-Jones and P Targett (both led) 21/04/08

The Koala Brothers F6b Climbs the dolerite **** above shed 100m left of G'day Arete. The start is the crux and the top is tricky. 8 bolts to twin bolt L/off. 19/5/08 Josie Ball. (TAKE CARE on the roof of the shed, it's starting to collapse! Could be sorted by moving something solid to stand on onto the roof e.g. the wooden telegraph pole or some old pipes etc ILLJ)

(Update 05/04/09: shed roof partially collapsed while I was standing on it today. It is currently VERY dangerous. Have a look inside and you will see why. A NEW BOLT SHOULD BE PLACED FOR THE BELAYER TO HANG ON ASAP)

G'day Arete F6c.**** 6 bolts to lower off. GREAT ROUTE ALERT!!!!

Serpentine Vein F8b New route up long snaking dolerite vein on east side of Australia.
F.A: Harry Potter [04/2007]

THE FAR OUT LEVEL.

The Curious Incident F6a New route, climbs the slabby side of the obvious arete left of To infinity and beyond! 7 Bolts lead the way to a double bolt lower off. F.A. Ian Lloyd-Jones and Phil Targett (Both Led) 2/05/08

To infinity and beyond! F6b New route, climbs a line up the main slab / wall left of the top of the ladder which gives access to this level from the G'day level. 10 bolts lead the way to a double bolt lower off. F.A. Ian Lloyd-Jones and Sam Beesley 22/04/08

Ride like the wind! F6b+ New route, climbs a sweeping line up the main slab / wall right of 'To Infinity and Beyond'. Start as for the previous route up to the 2nd bolt, move right and follow the line of 8 resin bolts to the lower off. F.A. Ian Lloyd-Jones and Phil Targett 4/05/08

Cirith Ungol F7a/F7a+? New Route, climbs an intricate and sequency line up the steep Dolerite vein (right of Ride Like the Wind!) 5 Bolts protect and lead the way to a double bolt lower off. F.A. Ian Lloyd-Jones and Phil Targett 20/05/08

Atticus Finch F6c New route. Climbs the groove in the arete on the right hand side of the level. An easy stepped start leads to a unique finishing sequence best climbed like a duracell bunny. 4 bolts to a twin bolt lower off. F.A. P Targett and Ian Lloyd-Jones 4/05/08

BOTTOM OF AUSTRALIA; well not quite the very bottom..
Walk through the right hand tunnel that starts between the Dali's Wall and Looning the Tube levels and take the right hand branch about half way along which leads you to the edge of the scree. Walk down (slight path) following the left edge of the scree for about 20 yards and behold a steep slab with a line of about 12 shot/bore holes running up it's centre, forming the right wall of a V-groove. This is:

Great Bores of Today F7a+ish though prob 7a.. New route. Start by climbing the metal pipe(be gentle), a stiff pull allows one to meander up the lower wall until a hard move left gains access to the line of shot holes . Yard up these with glee to a tricky rockover before the belay.
F.A Jon Ratcliffe 23/07/08 Named by, and in honour of, the Great man himself, the big G, Mr Geoooorge Smith. Originally bolted by George back in the day, not sure which day, possibly a Thursday.

N.B The holes fill up with water after rain but if you take a few rags with you and clean them out first on abseil*, by the time you've warmed up/done some other routes elsewhere they'll be dry enough to climb.
*there is a single access bolt above the route: walk right (facing into the hole) along the lip of Australia for about 30 yards or so from the building on Looning the Tube level, the bolt is a couple of feet above the 'path' on the wall. From here you can get to the double lower off(visible) and down to the base. Be carefull not to dilodge slates onto yourself cut your rope

The Wow Wow E4 6a
"Better, harder and longer than the Mau Mau...", it takes the obvious rightward diaganal crack 20m or so right of Great Bores of Today . A good rack of cams(00-4) with some double ups may be usefull.

1. 25m~30m 6a- Tackle the crack above the small alcove via some hard moves to a good hold, and continue with sustained difficulties past a breif restbite by a lovely Fern, to good ledge. Above easier climbing remains, albeit with interest as the crack widens, cam 3.5, 4 handy. Double bolt belay a few meters back.

2. 15m~20m 5b- Follow the continuation crack and before it deteriorates head off to good holds on the left wall and follow these to a bolt, a mantelshelf in the groove above, and so to a tree. Belay bolt on boulder 3m back.

F.A Jon Ratcliffe and Steve Franklin 09/06/2009
The route was cleaned on abseil (apart from the start) and led without practice of any sort, except in my mind....

Dali's Hole

ILLJ — Mon, 30 Nov 2009 08:58:57 CST

Dali’s Hole (Holy, Holy, Holy Area)

TO AVOID FURTHER ATAGONISING FIRT HYDRO PLEASE DO NOT CONGREGATE HERE IN LARGE NUMBERS. IF THERE ARE SAY ABOUT TEN PEOPLE HERE PLEASE CLIMB ELSEWHERE. CHEERS

DO NOT CLIMB OR DAMAGE THE FENCE!!!!!

To Donate:CLICK HERE!

Launching Pad E1. New Bolts. 09/06

Numbered routes correspond to attached topo (see bottom of page).

1. Le Gendre F6a+. New route starts right of At the Cost Of a Rope. 5 bolt runners to lower off.
FA Rob Spencer, Colin Goodey, Kath Goodey 01/06/07

2. Mon Amie.F5b New route right of Le Gendre starts above an old rusty peg-5bolts to lower off.
FAColin Goodey,Caroline Wigley 5/6/07

3. Tolerance F4c Left of Le Grandpere FA Colin Goodey,C Wigley 6/06/07

4. Le Grandpere F5c. New route to left of Emerald ****.4 bolts to LO
FA Colin Goodeyand Sue Goodey 31/5/07

5. Pour Tout le Monde F5c. Right of Le Grandpere.5 bolts to LO
FA Mike Simpkins, Chris Simpkins 12/6/

6. Kinder Sport F4b Left of Emerald **** FA Colin Goodey 23rd/5/07

7. Emerald **** F4a Right of Holy, Holy, Holy . New Bolts and Lower off. 10/06

8. La Grandmere F5a New route to right of Emerald **** -3 bolts to lower off
FA. Sue Goodey,andColin Goodey. 23/5/07.Quality route-popular already!

9. Le Petit Pois F6a New route on the black slab right of La Grandmere. 2 bolts to twin bolt lower off.
FA. P.Targett I.LLoyd-Jones 08/10/07

10. Telescopic Stem MasterV3. New Bolts and Lower off. 09/06

11. Aardman productions F5c. Takes the wall left of Tower of laughter. 4 bolts to a twin bolt lower off. F.A.
P.Targett. T.Hughes. S. Mcguiness.(2nd bolt replaced today 2/3/08 and the messy chain affair replaced too)

12. Tower of Laughter E1. New Bolts and Lower off. 09/06

13. Resurrection F5b/5c. Rising traverse from 2nd bolt on Le Gendre to the thirds bolts on the next two routes, finish up the last 4 meters of Pour Tout
le Monde. FA Gareth Buckley, Alec Folley (05/08/07)

14. Swing Time F5c/6a. Rising traverse starting at the first bolt on Pour Tout le Monde, clipping the second bolt on Le Grandpere and the 3rd and 4th on
tolerance, finish by clipping the last bolt on Mon aime and using the Le Gendre LO. FA Gareth Buckley, Alec Folley (05/08/07)

15. Binky Bonk Central. F4A. Cleaned line up slab left of LE PETIT POIS. 2 Bolts + lower off protect.
F.A.Julia Widjaya/Jim Kelly 2.06.2008.

16. My Wife's An Alien. F5B+* Great new line left of Binky Bonk Central. Climb the cleaned groove direct 3 bolts + lower off protect. F.A. Julia Widjaya/Jim
Kelly 15.06.2008

17. CAPTAIN SLOG. F4c. An "Enterprising" new line up the well cleaned groove left of Petit Pois. 3 BR's protect and shares the same lower-off as My Wife's
an Alien. F.A. Julia Widjaya/Jim Kelly 23.06.2008

18. SLATE ARRIVALS.F4a. A new line up right of Le Petit Pois. Direct follow the easy groove 2 Bolts + lower off protect.F.A Julia Widjaya/Jim Kelly
16.07.2008
SLATE ARRIVALS LEFT F5a This is an eliminate on the above route with some excellent and independant moves. It uses the same bolts as the above
route. Start as for Slate Arrivals and clip the 1st bolt. Make an awkward step lelt and continue up the left hand side of the slab. Clip the second bolt and
finish as for the original route. Charlie Jordan 17/10/08 I have improved the lower off.

19. LA FAMILLE. F4c+ New route right of La Grandmere filling the gap between that route and Binky Bonk.Very thin start leads past two bolts to easier
climbing and twin lower off.FA Colin and Sue Goodey 12/3/09.

20. DEPARTURE LOUNGE F3c. New route after extensive clearing of loose rock and vegetation off the 'none impressive line' of :Aliens Stole my..........
The climb which is ideal for children making their first lead,climbs the cleaned rock to right of Pour Tout Le Monde: Julia Widjaya,JimKelly & Colin Goodey.
16/03/09.

21. "UN-NAMED - TBA" ,F6C+ ** Superb new route taking the vertical wall left of "Zambesi". Hard moves passing the initial overlap lead to a harder
sequence of sidepulls on the steep wall above. 5 BR's protect to bolt lower off. F.A. Lucian Cottle / Jim Kelly.

Dali's Hole (Slab by California Tunnel)

Slip Not F6a+ New route up the left hand side of this little slab 3 bolts to a lower off. FA Ian Lloyd-Jones 16/11/07
Why Knot? F6a+ New route up the right hand side of the slab, start as for Slip Not to the first bolt 2 further bolts lead to a lower off. FA Ian Lloyd-Jones 16/11/07

Dali’s Hole (Hidden Wall)

Minder E4. New bolts one replacing a peg and another between the 1st and 3rd was added and Lower off. 10/06

Her Indoors E3. New bolts one replacing a peg and another to protect loose easy ground at the top and Lower off. 10/06

Dali's Slab

This little buttress now has a bolt belay on top.

Medicine Show HVS. New Bolt. 3/07

When the Wind Blows E3. New Bolts one added to the top. 3/07

Dali’s Wall

First and Last E1. New bolt and Lower Off. 09/06

The Hemulin E2. New bolt. 09/06

Grandads rib E1. New bolt. 09/06 (Large detached block up and right where coy mistress used to be, although the resulting groove has been ascended)

Dali Mirror E2. New Bolt. 09/06

Graded List

ILLJ — Thu, 12 Nov 2009 06:58:04 CST

Hopefully over the next couple of days we will get a provisional graded list up. It would be great if you could lend a hand and suggest through the comments feature if you think a route deserves stepping up the list, or down.

Sport Graded List.

8b+

The Very Big and the Very Small

8b
Serpent Vein
Sauron
The New Slatesman
Bungles Arête

8a+
Misogynist Discharge

Bobby’s Groove

The Medium

The Untouchables

Manic Strain

Cwms the Dogfish
Tambourine Man

Concorde Dawn

7c+

The Master Craftsman (Il Miglior Fabbro)

Windows of Perception

Chitra

The Mu Mu

The Dark Destroyer

Shoreline

The Dark Half

Wish you Were Here
The Wall Within

Gin Palace
Doggy-style
Rowan

Forsinain Motspur
Spong

Sucked Away with the Scum

Le Voleur
Heatseeker

7b+

Two Bolts or Not to Be

Pas de Chevre

Colditz

True Clip

Artichokes, Artichokes

Song of the Minerals
Raisin Frumpsnoot

Race Against the Pump

Jai'a'n

Mfecane

Con Quista Dors

Vermin on the Ridiculous

Unpaid Bills
Cig-Arête
Jepp knave
Ziplock

7a+
Childs Play
Beltane
Nick the Chisel

Geordie War Cry
Narcolepsy
My Secret Garden
Psychdelicate
Menai Vice

Heading the Shot
Coming up for Air

Where are my Sensible Shoes

Full Metal Jack Off
The Rock Dancer's Daughter
Cirith Ungol

The Dragon Slayer

Smokeless Zone

Scheherezade

The Stream of Obscenity
Dekophobia

Diagonal Dilemma
The Road to Botany Bay
De Nouement
Impact Zone

Suspension of Disbelief
Taken Over by Department ‘C’

6c+

L'Allumette
Gerbil Abuse
The Spleenal Flick

The Carbon Stage

The Porphyry Chair
Donald Duck

The Manimal

Pocketeering

Finatic
Wizz Bang
Slight of Hand
Walk this way
G'Day Arete
Sleeper
Y Gwaedlyd
Atticus Finch
Technical hamster
Shorty's Dyno
Wave Rock

6b+
Steps of Escher

Ride Like The Wind
Nik-Arete

Fridge
Freezer

Crazy Train
Gadaffi Duck
Mister Mister

6b
1066

My Hovercraft is full of Eels
The Drowning Man
Hyperfly

The Burning
To infinity and beyond!
Yossarian
Maximum Tariff
In Loving Memory
The koala Brothers

6a+

Nick the Chisel (Right-hand Start) This might be 6b in't Peak

Journey to the Centre of the Earth
Horse Latitudes
Orangutang Overhang
Cyber World Sl@teheads
XXXposure
Hogiau Pen Garett
Bosch Stop Quarry
Bish Bash Bosch
Birdsong
Feeling Rusty?
Why Knot?
Slip not
Scarface Claw
Le Gendre

Peter Pan
Alive and Kicking
Catrin
Gwion's Groove
Over Taken By Department C
Mini Bus Stop
Le petit pois
The fat controller
Shock the Monkey
The Curious Incident
Clash of the Titans
Plastic Soldier
Harri Bach Llanrug

5+
The Railway children
The Full Monty
Hawkeye
Aardman productions
Surprise Surprise
Hogwarts express
"N" Gauge
sodor
The level crossing
The Malard
Rack and pin

The Deceptive ****
Le Grandpere
La Grandmere
Easy Routes Can Have Bolts
Choo Choo
polar express

5
Steps of Glory
My Wife's an Alien
Ivor the engine
Slate Arrivals Left
4+
Kinder Surprise
Sport 4 All
Sideline
Binky Bonk Central
Captain Slog

4
Slate Arrivals

U.B.L.
Jenga
Snakes and Ladders
Derailed
Thomas the tank
The big easy
Jagged Face
3
Departure Lounge
Emerald ****

Gordon

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Trad Graded List.

E7

Coeur De Lion (7a,6c)

The Cure for a Sick Mind (7a)

The Quarryman (6c,6b,6c,7a)

Dawes of Perception (6c)

Breakdance (6b)

The Fire Escape (6c)

I Ran the Bath (6b)

Blockhead (6c,6a)

Raped by Affection (6c)

Clap Please (6b)

Stairway to Silence (6b)

The Spirit Level (6b)

My Halo (6b)

Naked Before the Beast (6b/c,6b)

Prick up Urea's (6c)

Phil's Harmonica (6c)

DOA (6c)

Ringin' in Urea's (6c)

The Big Sur (6c)

Promethus Unbound (6c,6b)
The Shark that Blocked the Drain (6b)

Menstrual Gossip (6b)

Satisfying Frank Bruno (6b)

The Dwarf in the Toilet (6b)

Fat Lad Exam Failure (6b)

Wishing Well (6b)

Sombre Music (6b)

Order of the Bath (6b)

Released from Treatment (6b,6b)

For Whom the Bell Tolls (6b)

Stiff Syd's Cap (6b)

Tribal blow (6b)

Spider pants (6a,6b,6b)?

The Wonderful World of Walt Disney (6a,6b,-,6a)

The Rainbow of Recalcitrance (6b,6a)

The **** (6a)

North West Face of the Druid (6a,5c,5c)

The Gay Blade (6a)

Scare City (6a)

Love Minus Zero (6a)
Fruity Pear in a Veg Shop Romp (6b)

A Mere Trifle (6a)
Drury Lane (6b)

Wedlock Holiday (6c)

The Listening and Dancing (6c)

The Homicidal Hamster from Hell (6c)

Psychodelicate (6c)Possibly now a sports route?

The Hobbit (6b)

Watching the Sin Set (6b/c)

Flashdance/Belldance (6b)

Cystitis by Proxy (6b)

The Long and Winding Road (6b,5c)

The Book of Brilliant Things (6b)

The Spark that Set the Flame (6b)

Midnight Flier (6b)

Mildly Macho (6b)

Private Smells (6b)

Big Wall Party (6b,6b)

Piper at the Gates of Dawn (6b)

Shame and Embarrassment (6b)

Light and Darkness (6b,5c)?

Chewing the Cwd (6b)

Freak Yer Beanbag (6b)

Splitstream (6b)

Simply Peach (6b)

Dali’s Dihedral (6b)

Return of the Visitor (6b)

Circles are Sound (6b)

Cuts like a Knife (6a)

Over The Rainbow (5c,6a)

Poetry Pink (6a,5b)

Shazalzabon (6a)

Major Headstress (6a)

Wall of Flame (6a)

Young Men afraid of Horses (5a,5a,6a)

Small Rusty Nail on a Large Mantelpiece (4a,5c,5c,6a,5c)
Gay Lightweights and Hetro Stumpies (6a)

Swinging By the Bell (6a)

Broken Memories (6a)

Ghengis Khan (6a)

Green Ernie (6a)Sanity Claws (6a)

Heinous Creature (6a)

1000 Tons of Chicken **** (6a)
Out of Africa (6a)

Where the Green Ants Dream (6a)

Josy Puss (6a,5c)

Tentative Decisions (6a)

Salvador (6a)

Flashdance (6a)

Bathtime (6a)

Dope on a Rope (6a)

The Gorbals (6a)

Central Sadness (6a,6a)

Waves of Inspiration (6a)

Never Never Land (6a)

Hymen Snapper (5c)

Hysterectomy (5c)

Now or Never Never (5c)

Putting on Ayres (6c)

Menai Vice (6b/c)F7a+

Moving Being (6b)

Sleight of Hand (6b)

Working up a Lather (6b)

Nostromo (6b)

Nostrodamus (6b)

Menage a Trios (6b)

The Machine in the Ghost (6b)

No Problem (6b)

Imperial Leather (6b)

Lob Scouse (6b)

Pitch Two (6b)

Ancestral Vices (6b)

The Sweetest Taboo (6b)

Stump Rogers (6b)

Espirit de Corpse (6b)

Resurrection Shuffle (6b)

Fruity Pear gets Just Deserts (6b) F7a

Minder (6b) F6c+

Swan Hunter (6b)

Here to Stay, Gone Tomorrow (6b)

Khubla Khan (6b)

Short Stories (6a)

Caleduwlch (6a)

The Sneaking (6a)

Memorable Stains (6a)

The Colour Purple (6a)

Ride the Wild Surf (6a)

Igam-Ogam (6a)Sport

Crossville (6a)

Y Rybelwr (6a)

Sad Old Red (6a)

Far from the Madding Crowd (6a)

G’Day Arete (6a)

Jack the Ripper (6a)

Yuk Hunter (6a)

Jack of Shadows (6a)

Great Balls of Fire (6a) F7a

Celestial Inferno (6a)

Gods Between Money (5c)

\Watch Me Wallaby Wank Frank (6a) F6c+

Between Here and Now (6a)

Y Gwaedlyd (6a)

Balance of Power (6a)

Stretch Class (6a)

The Coming of Age (6a)

Silver Shadow (6a)

Virgin on the Ridiculous (6a)

The Mau Mau (6a)

Jaded Passion (6a)
Ari Hol Hi (6a)

Stack of Nude Books Meets the Stick Man (6a)

Slug Club Special (6a)

Remain in Light (6a)

Young and Easy Under the Apple Boughs (6a)

Gideon's Way (6a)

Manatese (5c/6a)

Soap on a Rope (6a)

Four Wheel Drift (6a)

Shtimuli (6a)

General Odours (6a)

Teliffant (6a)

Meltdown (6a)

Wakey, Wakey, Hands off Snakey (6a)

Sup 2 (6a)

Men of Leisure (6a)

On ***** (5c)

Foetal Attraction (5c)

Lord of the Rings (5c)

Two Steps to Heaven, Three Steps to Hell (5c)

The Wall Without (5c)

Scarlet Runner (5c)

Loved by a Sneer (5c)

Old Cow, New Cow (3c,5c,6a,5b)

One Wheel on my Wagon (5c)

Spread'em (5c)

The Toms Approach (5c)

Mad on the Metro (5c)

Put it on the Slate, Waiter (5c) Fr 7a??
As the Sun Sets in the West (5c)

Octopussy's Garden (5c)

Time Bandit (6b)F7a

Laund Arête (6b)

Arthur Dali (6b)

Moth to the Flame (6b)

Her Indoors (6b) Fr6b+

Beijqueiro (5c,6b)

Feet Apart (6b)

When the Winds Blow (6b)

Toad in Toad Hall (6b)

Dali’s Lemming Ducklings (6b)

Donald Duck (6b)

Captain Condom and the Mothers of Prevention (6b)

Ladder Resist (6a)
Zzzooming the Tube (6a)

Goose Creature (6a) F6c

A Good Slate Roof (6a)

The Velociraptor (6a)
The Chiselling (6a)

Red Throated Diver (6a) F6b+

L'Allumette (6a)F6c+?

Cyclone B (6a)

Scarlet Runner Direct (6a)

Dali Express (6a)

The Mad Cap Laughs (6a)

Legal Murders (6a)

First and Last (6a)

Men at Work (6a)

Hasta La Vista Baby (6a)

Ya Twisting Ma Melon Man (6a)

Monster Hamburger Eats the Alien Baby (6a)F6c?

Proliferation Bang On (6a)

The Golden Shower (6a)

Buzz Stop (6a)

Cat Flaps of Perception (6a)

The Weetabix Connection (6a)F6c?

Short Staircase to the Stars (6a)

Astroman From the Planet Zzzoink (6a)

The Coolidge Effect (3c,5c,6a,5b)

Geographically Celibate (6a) Sport route F 6c

Pain Killer (6a)

Darkness Visible (6a)

Loony Toons (6a)

Solitude Standing (6a)

Colossus (5c)

Jugs Mawr (5c)

Ritter Sport (5c)

Off the Beaten Track (5c)F6c

See You Bruce (5c)

The Australian (5c)

Planet Zzzoink Arête (5c)

Unchain My Heart (5c)

Mark of Thor (5c)

Long Distance Runner (5c)

Poetry in Motion (5c)

N.E. Spur (5c)

Sesame Street comes to Llanberis (5c)

Reefer Madness (5c)

Comes the Dervish (5c)

Alive and Kicking (5c)

Rycott (5c)

Alice Springs (5c) (I loved and lost her, fell down years ago)

The North face of the Aga (5c) F6c

Genital Persuasion (5c)

Maupin Ray Route (5a,5b,5b,5c)

Fellowship of the Ring (5c)

Never as good as the First Time (5c)

Is it a Crime? (5c)

Night of the Hot Knifes (5c)

Truffle Hunter's Roof (5c)F6b+/6c

Dinorwig Unconquerable (5b,4c)

Purple Haze (5b)

Down to Zero (5b)
Hamadryad (5a,5b,5b,5b,4c)

The Hong Jagged Route of Death (5b)

Unsexual (5b)

Sabre Dance (5b)

Primal Ice Cream (5b)

Youthslayer (5b)

The Richard of York Finish (5b)

Sanity Fair (5b)

Solvent Abuse (5b)

The Race against Time (5b)

Little Urn (5b)

The Razors Edge (-)

Wild Horses (?)

Twm Dre (Monkey on a Stick) (?)

The Wooley (or won’t he) Jumper (?)

Womaninstress (6b)
Two Tone (6a) F6b
Psychotherapy (6a)
Paradise Lost (6a/b)
How Hot is Your Chilli? (6a)
Immac Groove (6a)
Rock Video (6a)
Just For Fun (6a) F6a
Gadaffi Duck (6a)
2nd Class Passenger (6a)F6b
Pork Torque (5c)
Hemulin (5c)
German School Girl (5c)
Blue Touch Paper (5c)
Stretched Limo (5c)
Ride of the Valkyries (5c)
Faulty Towers (5c)
Puff Puff (5c)
The Man Who Fell to Earth (5c)
Dali Mirror (5c)
The Samba Drum (5c)
Sprint Finish (5c)
Tribulation of Bob Marley and Peter Tosh (5c)
Simion Street (5c)
Sylvanian Waters (5c)
Lethal Injection (5c)
F Hot (5c)
Single Factor (5c)sports route?
Aultimers Groove (5c)
Eric the Fruitbat (5c)
Angel on Fire (5c)
Heaven Steps (5c)
Chariots of Fire (5c)
Slippery People (5c)
Turn of the Century (5c)sports route F6a+???
Pull My Daisy (5c)
Buffalo Smashed in Head Jump (5c)
The Great Curve (5c)
Holy, Holy, Holy (5c)
Sterling Silver (5c)
Pruning the Tube (5c)
Cabbage Man meets the Flying Death Leg (5c)
Too Bald to be Bold/The Turkey Chant (5c)
Genevieve (5c)
Toilet Trouble (5c)
Stinky Boots (5b)
Legs Together (5b)
Legs Akimbo (5b)
Midnight Drives (5b)
Tennent’s Creek (5b)
Fetzer (5b)
Franzia (5b)
Satires of Circumstance (5b)
Surfin' USA (5b)
Blades of Green Tara (5b)
Eros (5b)
Slate's Slanting Crack (5b)
Throttle With Bottle (5b)
Abus Dangereux (5b)
Rosen Chosen (5a,5b)
Walrus Wipeout (5b)
Massambula (5b)
Ronald Reagan meets Doctor Strangle Love (5b)
Malice in Wonderland (5b)
Captain Black and the Mysterons (5b)
Scratching the Beagle (5b)
Proless Cliff Arête (5b)
Dangling by the Diddies (5b)
The Blind Buddha (5a)
Classy Situation (5a)
So this is Living (5a)
Brain Death (5a)
Bushmaster (-)
Wendy Doll (?,?,?)

E1
Rhyfelwr (5b)
The Barrel of Laughs (5b/5c/6a)
Name Unknown (Watford Gap) (6a)
Home Run (5c/6a)
Patellaectomy (5c)
The Monster Kitten (5c)
Stuck up Fruhstuck (5c)
Silent Homecoming (5c)
The Colour Purple (5c)
Zippies First Acid Trip (5c)
Lord of the Pies (5c)
Tongue in Situ (5c)
Fool’s Gold (5c)
Gnat Attack (5c)sport rotue F6a
Rastaman Vibration (5c)
Nearly but Not Quite (5c)
Making Plans for Nigel (5c)
Coy Mistress (5c)
Bungle in the Jungle (5b)
Hooded Cobra (5b)
The Christening of New Boots (5b)
Mu Hat Mu Ganja (5b)
Bella Lugosi is Dead (5b)
Artichokes, Artichokes (5b)
Granddad’s Rib (5b)
Launching Pad (5b)sport route F6a
Biggles Flies Undone (5b)
The Dreaming (5b)
M.I.L. Arête (5b)
Brief Encounter (5b)
Walls come Tumbling down (5b)
Last Tango in Paris (5b)
Jumping the Gun (5b)
The Madness (5b)sports route F6a
Top Gear (5b)
Bar of Soap (5b)
Occam's Razor (5b)
Waiting on an Angel (5b)
Squashing the Acropods (5b)
Seams the Same (5b)
The Stick Up (5b)
The Grey Slab (5b)
Theftus Maximus (5b)
Alpen (5b)
Looning the Tube (5b)
Youthanasia (5b)
The Sponge that Walked Away (5a)
Billy Two Tokes (5a)
Wave Out on the Ocean (5a)
Red and Yellow and Pink and Green, Orange and Purple and Blue (5a)
Sup1 (5a)
Demolition Derby (5a)
At the Cost of a Rope (5a)
John Verybiglongwords (5a)
Arnie Meets the Swamp Monster (5a)
Nifty Wild Ribo (5a)
Tower of Laughter (5a)sport route F6a
Stairlift to Heaven (4c,5a)
Brian Damage (5a)
Rodent to Nowhere (5a)
Andy Pandy (5a)
Rest in Pete's Eats (5a)
Dried-Mouth Sesame Seed (5a)
Snap (5a)
California Arête (4c)
Another Wasted Journey (4c)
The Moon Head Egg Monster from Allsup (4c)
Scorpion (-)
Combat Rock (5b)

HVS
Mental Lentils (5b)
Is Marilyn Monroe Dead? (5b)
Puff the Cracked Up Dragon (5b)This is now the Bonza Crack?
Pop (5b)
Rock Athletes Day off (5b)
Le Cochon (5b)
Harvey’s Brassed off Team (5b)
The Deceptive **** (5b) sport route
Hot Air Crack (5b)
The Methane Monster (5b)
Bonza Crack (5b)
Booby Building (5a)
Lentil in a Stew (5a)
Lesser Mortals (5a)
Razorback (5a)
Werp (5a)
....and a Pen Please (5a)
Solstice (5a)
Cross Eyed Tammy (5a)
Skinning the Ladder (5a)
You can Dance if You Want To (5a)
Pit and the Pendulum (5a)
Vivander (5a)
Binman (5a)
Dolmen (5a)
Digital Delection (5a)
Mad Dog of the West (5a)
Geronimo's Cadillac (4c,5a,-)
Jex’s fumble Clipping Arête (5a) going to fall down I would remove from list
Breaking Wind (5a)
Cross Eyed Tammy (5a)
Saved by the Whole (5a)
Silly on Slate (4c)
Pigs in Space (4c)
Koala Bare (4c)
Flying Death Fin (or is it Dutch?) (4c)
Guillotine (4c)
U.B.L. (4c) probably VS now sport rouite?
Above the Line (4c)
Greedy Girls (4c)
Open Gambit (-)
Puff the Cracked up Dragon (-)repeated higher up
Lindy Lou (?)
Medicine Show (?)

VS
Neat Arête (5b)
Tower of Power (5a)
Frustrated Lust (5a)
Walking Pneumonia (5a)
Under the Glass (5a)
Hole in One (4c)
Fallout (4c)
Big Bendy Buddha (4c)
Seamstress (4c)
Vertigo (4c)
Pontiac Arête (4c)
Sad Man Who's Sane (4c) sport route
Come off it Arfer (4c)
Velvet Walk (4c)
Run for Fun (4c)
Zambesi (4c)
Equinox (4c)
Wond (4c)
Menhir (4c)
Antiquity (4c)
The Shining (4c)
Good Afternoon Constable (4c)
Dog Day Dogfish (4c)
Bong to Lunch (4c)
Mudslide Slim (4c)
Snuffler (4c)
Stand to your Right (4c)
Crackle (4c)
Goblin Party (4c)
Turkey Trot (4c)
A Swarm of Green Parrots (4c)
Emerald Eyes (4b)

Baby Nina Soils her Pants (4b)
The Stick’s groove (4b)
Watford Gap West (4b)
Second Thought (4b)
Kosciusko (4b)
Second’s Chance (4b)
Act Naturally (4b)
Binwomen (4b)
Gully (4a)
Breakdance (4a)
A Tourmegamite Experience (-)
That Obscure Object of Desire (-)
OM 69 Runner Bean (?)

Graded list.
Has anybody repeated most of the recent new additions to the quarries? Theres been a lot of activity of late and it would be beneficial to have an objective viewpoint as to where they stand in the graded list (as opposed to where the first ascensionists think )

Home

jonnyr — Thu, 29 Oct 2009 16:11:31 CDT

Hello and Welcome to the Slate Wiki. Again like its sister sites the Gogarth , North Wales Limestone, Welsh Winter Climbs , Tremadog and Trevor Area (Clwyd) Wiki's this site has been set up to provide up to date information on the exsisting routes. Since the evolution of other wiki's it seemed appropriate to offer the same interactive service for the Dinorwig Slate Quarries.

The sort of imformation we are looking for is current state of play on route descriptions, pegs, grades and bolts. Something that since the start of a re-bolting campaign has been very dynamic. Any new information will also help with the forthcoming guidebook that is currently being written by the Ground Up Team.

Please donate to the North Wales Bolt Fund

To Donate:CLICK HERE!

If you would like to help contribute to the on-going project of re-equipping the slate quarries then you can by either giving a little time to go out with the drill (training can be arranged through contacting the site creator), or by donating to the North Wales Bolt Fund. You can donate using Credit Card, Debit Card or Paypal by clicking on the link above. Alternatively, if you would like to mail a donation then contact: northwalesboltfund@googlemail.com or NWBF, Llysfaen, Lon Brynteg, Llandegfan, Menai Bridge, LL59 5NU payable to NWBF. Or, visit V12 outdoor, Joe Brown, The Indy Climbing Wall(Llanfair PG), Beacon Climbing Centre, Rock Bottom (Betws), The Great Arete (Bangor) or The Castle Climbing in London where they have collection jars.

For the latest information and to help with any addition information you can share with everyone then click on the link below.

Mordor and The Lost Worlds

BMC Better Bolts News. This link includes important information on keeping everyone up to date on routes equipped with bolts from this source.

It would seem a good idea to add a comedy graded list to the site, if you have any thoughts on routes that need to be put up or down the list, and where to then it would be extremely helpful if you would use the comments feature to allow some debate before a route is moved.

Another page that would seem important to add is a list of routes that are outstanding, that need re-equipping on the Re-bolting Projects. If you bolt a route then remember to remove it from this list.

Weather: Here's link to Pete's Eat's webcam's, one of which faces the quarries. And Metcheck for Llanberis

Serengeti

jonnyr — Mon, 26 Oct 2009 06:09:23 CDT

SEAMSTRESS SLAB

Karabiner Cruise boulder problem. 6c 2 Bolts Replaced. 4/6/07
Diagonal Dilemma F7a / 7a+(?) Previously unrecorded route follows the rising crackline from Karabiner Cruise clipping bolts on Karabiner Cruise, No Problem + Y Gwaedlyd to lower off (previously E5 6c) FA I Lloyd-Jones 7/91

No Problem E4 6b 2 Bolts Replaced. 4/6/07

Y Gwaedlyd F6c 2 Bolts Replaced + 2 added + Lower off 4/6/07

Silent Homecoming E2 6a bolts replaced 24/7/08

Balance of power E4. New Bolts 1/07

Out of Africa E4. New Bolt. 1/07

Slug Club Special E4. New Bolts. 1/07

Windows of perception new bolt + peg replaced 7/08

The Medium F8a. New Bolts. 1/07

Heading the Shot E5/F7a. The bolts and the peg have now been replaced with shiny new stainless steel. New Lower off. 1/07

Watch me Wallaby Wank Frank E3 6a. After the peg was removed by a falling climber several years back this has been replaced with a new bolt to protect the last move.

Squashing the acropods E1 5a new bolt

Peter Pan E2 6a/ F6a+. This route was described back in 1992 as being bolted, the studs were there but the bolts have long been 2to F5 at this grade, a harder m225ore perplexing direct can lead straight to the lower off

Nick the Chisel F7b. Re-equipped as sports route and the line straightened out to a lower off. 2/07 (Font 6c+/7a boulder problem past the first bolt...brilliant moves and 2 ways of doing it depending on height. Jon R)

Alt Start to Nick the Chisel F6a+. Starts just to the right of Nick the Chisel, then follow that line to lower off. 2/07.
F.A: Pete Robins (maybe Fr6b? J.R)

YELLOW WALL

Short Staircase to the Stars E3. New bolt placed slightly lower than before. 10/06

Slipper People E2. New Bolts 199? (resin eco), New Lower off. 10/06

Tentative descisions E5 new bolt 7/08

The Great Curve E2. New bolts one bolt was added lower down but the route is still bold and shared lower off with Remain in Light. 10/06

Remain in Light E4. New bolts and Lower off. 10/06

Long Distance Runner E3. New bolt to replace the high peg and lower off. 10/06

OPPOSITE SEAMSTRESS AREA

Laund arete. E4 6b new bolts and lower off 07/08

One for all . 17mF4b/4c -New climb on right hand edge of crag opposite Seamstress slab
.Start on an airy ledge overlooking Never never land slab(bolt belay for security) and below the prominent green slabby pillar.4 bolts lead up suberb 'greenstone' to a double ring lower off.
FA :Colin and Sue Goodey. 4/408.

All for One. 17m F4c/5a.
New route to right of 'One for all' on the big green tower. Start 5m right of this route climbing the clean green slabs past 2 bolts with tricky move past second bolt(crux).Easier ground now leads out to the right on good holds to gain the delightful crest of the obviouse arete-this leads up on huge holds in fine position past a further 2 bolts and a peg to a lower off.
FA: Morgan Goodsmith,Colin Goodey,Del Goodey 5/5/08

Never Never Land

jonnyr — Mon, 26 Oct 2009 05:30:21 CDT

Most of the routes have eco anchors at present. These include Short Stories, Kubla Khan, Meltdown, Watch Me wallaby..... (I with Tim Neill and John Tatum in 1993/4 placed these ecos using the petrol powered drill Ian McNeill)

'Machine in the Ghost' seems harsh compared to other slate routes of the same grade. Harder and bolder than Scheherezade.

A few route remain to be re-equipped.

There has been a massive rock fall in the shame and embarrassment area, all routes between bar of soap and stairlift to heaven are affected, and possibly some eastern european new routes to be had.

Dark and Scary Stories E5 6bA good direct variant of Kubla Khan, low in the grade. Climb Kubla Khan up to the bolt, sprint up the slab via some bold climbing to reach the third bolt of 'Short Stories', finish as for that route.

F.A. Calum Muskett and Tony Pearson sep 2009 (both on-sight in near darkness)

MONKEY BAR AREA.

Home Run E2 5c*. New bolts. belay is already eco anchors. Two bolts added on to top and one above the first bolt. Difficult moves to first lead to a precarious one to reach the second. Ok to top from then.

Patellaectomy E1***. New belay, bolt as already stainless and good. 03/07.

Shock the Monkey f6a. New bolts and LO. 1 additional bolt added. Old bolts need removing with allen key or very big hammer! 16/11/07

Ibex. M8
A good sustained route with fun moves and a crux near the top, though maybe not the easy warm-up route its builders intended it to be. The route is on the back wall, just right of the tunnel. Start next to the boulder - there may be a Quarryman's clip-stick in place for the first bolt. Monopoints and jug-handle tools pretty much mandatory, or take the M10 tick for a 'Vertiges with homemade leashes and dual-point crampons' ascent.
Route created by Owen Samuel & Rocio Siemens. F.A. Pete Harrison 19/02/09.

Monkey See Monkey Do E2 5b
Start 2m left of patellaectomy-climb direct through the overhang (small wires) to arrive at a horizontal break,traverse this rightward and up a small crack system. A tougher section at the top leads to an easy finish.FA Si Beal,Andy Scott,Nick Harford 23.06.08

Beyond the Pail F7a ,1 bar for aid
Start as for Pail Rider at the 4 shot holes at the base of the wall. Use these ( Don't delve too deep as they're full of water at the back! ) to gain the right hand flake and follow this to a small ledge and the third bolt. Step precariously left to the first shot hole under the bars. Keep going up the wall to the good edge on Patellaectomy and rock over to grab the right hand bar,(a short sling handy for protection) mantle this and head diagonally right to another bolt. Thin moves lead out to the last bolt near the arete, joining Pail Rider for its final moves and lower off. An enjoyable and airy pitch.
F.A Andy Scott, Jon Ratcliffe 25/06/08.

Pail Rider F6c+
Start at the 4 shot holes at the base of the wall and follow the flakes out past three bolts. Thin sidepulls, tasty footwork and a long stride out right to gain the flake out near the arete with a small ledge and bolt. Up the short crack to an awkward mantel onto the ledge below the final arete. Reach out left to clip the last bolt and pull onto the wall and arete with a fierce little pull for the lower off. F.A Andy Scott, Jon Ratcliffe 24/06/08.

A Little Pail F6b+
Starts a couple of metres right of the previous route. Climb the pleasantly delicate shallow groove to a niche, pull into and up this to the base of a short crack on the left and a junction with the previous route. Continue following the 'Pail Rider' to it's lower off, the crux being exactly that.
F.A Jon Ratcliffe, Andy Scott. (25.06.08)

**** Rider E2 5b
As you enter the bay a mini **** on the right next to a tunnel stands out.Climb this pleasently past 2 bolts to a point where an obvious tricky section looms,press on through to big holds and a 2 bolt LO.FA Si Beal,Andy Scott,Jon Ratcliffe (all led) 25.06.08 -(nb the bottom 1/2 may have been climbed b4 as a very rusty stub was found during cleaning operations)

NURENBURG AREA.

Hawkeye F5c* - New route on extreme left of area behind ventilation tower. 6 Bolts to a new 2 bolt lower off. Reachy! F. A I Lloyd Jones and Colin Goodey.
18thJune 2007

Fresh Air F6a**-New route taking a direct line between Hot air crack and Breaking Wind- This route is close to the old route Breaking Wind, either way it is good and colin had spoken to the FA who was more than happy to have his route retro bolted.
FA-Colin Goodey and Kath Goodey(both led).19th July 2007

State of the Heart F6c+ ** New route behind hot air shaft. Use long quick draws, move right above last bolt. FA Mike Raine 22.03.08 in snow showers!

Yossarian F6b New route. Climbs the overlapping slab between the two obvious aretes. 7 bolts to a double bolt lower off. Move right to pass 3rd bolt on layaways. FA P.A.Targett I.LLoyd-Jones 29.05.08.

Steps of Escher New route F6c
The hanging arete to the right of YOSSARIAN. Pad up the black slab to the foot of the v groove. Swing up and left and follow the line of 5 bolts to a double bolt lower off. Steep climbing on big holds which run out for the crux rockover through the top roof. F.A. P.A.Targett. I.LLoyd-Jones 14.06.08

TOMBS WALL AREA.
(Between Nurenburg and the main slab)

Back in the Saddle F6b 20m *
Start as for tomb raider, after second bolt, go up and left following a line of three more bolts, to a double bolt lower off . really good climbing , tricky move by the third bolt, exciting moves to the lower off !
F.A. Chris.Davies, Ian Loyd Jones, 28/05/09

Tomb Raider F6a,3a,6a/6a+
New 3-pitch sport route.
Start : To the left of the impressive main slab lies a huge complex wall ('Tombs Wall'-my name!) rising over 100ft This route starts below the middle of the wall at a short concrete coated slab.

L1 15m F5c: Climb directly up this slab past 2 bolts to where the slab meets a ramplike arete abuting the wall above.climb over or around the nose(interesting moves!) to gain a series of mantleshelves leading past 4 bolts to a ledge with bolt belays
(to go on from here will cause rope drag and will remove some of the charm!)
L2 8m F3a
Traverse right along Dandelion ledge to gain another airy perch on the far arete-bolt belays.
L3 12m F6a/6a+
Climb directly up the corner to below the roof (2bolts).Either climb directly over the roof 6a+ or move out left and up(bolt) to rejoin the corner 6a .Continue delightfully up the corner crack (3bolts) to a good stance and bolt belays.
FA-Colin Goodey,Sue goodey and Bryn Williams.19th oct.07

362 (F5b, 5c)

A super 2 pitch sport route.The name of this route is the number of quarrymen who died while working the Dinorwic Quarry. Before climbing in this awesome historical place, remember its past and the people involved in creating our playground.

The route starts on the left hand side of Never Never Land Slab, between ‘Rodent to Nowhere’ and ‘Scheherezade’, on the arête.

1, 16m, 5b: A tricky start leads to easier climbing following the line of bolts up the arête to a sloping ledge with double bolt lower off.

2, 7m, 5c: Step up the steep wall behind the belay to a good ledge, rest and make a powerful move up to gain better holds on the small arête, then mantle onto the belay ledge as for ‘Tomb Raider’ pitch 2 (lower-offs to follow).

FA Bryn Williams & Colin Goodey, 29th October 2007

nb. a 3rd pitch was attempted but defeated due to very loose rock and the natural line following Rodent to Nowhere

Major rock fall in this area, bolts on 'Obsession' in a dangerous condition. Risk of futher rock fall here.

Obsession F6b,F5c.
New 2 pitch sport route taking an impressive line up a hitherto unclimbed wall-excellent quality route,rock and situation.
The route lies in the area opposite Never never land slab and behind some mammouth blocs
(Giant boulder area-my name!) start in a hidden bay behind these huge blocs..

L1 17m F6b :Make hard moves to gain a mantleshelf followed by harder moves to gain a sloping shelf(the original layback flake became loose and was removed) crux F6b.Continue up the corner to the foot of a steep slab which leads to a good ledge with bolt belays.7bolts protect.

L2 12m F5c.:Continue up the corner for a few metres before stepping out boldly to the left to gain
the steep 'flying arete'.Climb this in fine position to an impressive mantelshelf finish which leads to a double bolt belay/lower off.-6 bolts and a peg protect. A very fine pitch.

FA : Colin Goodey and Mark Helliwell,June 6th 2008

NB : The top anchors have been placed to allow the route to be done in one pitch using a 60m sport rope.

Igam Ogam E4 6a 3 bolts replaced + Belay Bolt at the top...all bolts now well away from the top section of Never Never Land.(Old Bolts still need to be removed) 4/6/07

The Gargoyl F6a+
New route on S.West wall (walls running at right angles to N.N.Land slabs)
Starts 30m to the right of the entrance to the amphitheatre(turdongorge!!) A hidden facet of slab gives access to the steep wall above(2bolts) This 20' slab ends on an edge below the Gargoyl (bolt) which forms the crux-difficult balance moves allow the gargoyl to be surmounted followed by more awkward moves past 2bolts leading to easier climbing to a double bolt lower off.-15m.

FA: Kath Goodey,Colin Goodey,Del Smith.14th August 2008.

NB: We would appreciate feedback on on our provisional grade-also,as with all new slate routes
loose rock (in spite of cleaning) may be found but will diminish with traffic.

Bus Stop Quarry

colinandsue — Fri, 16 Oct 2009 14:33:36 CDT

Bus Stop

Most of Bus Stop was re-equipped fairly recently, and most of the bolted routes are already safe with resined in eco-anchors. Exceptions are Meltdown, Wizz Bang.

New bolt belay on Fools Gold.

Raisin Frumpsnoot F7b
New sport route between Scare City and Forsinian Motspur.
A. Wainwright 05/05/07
Beltane F7a+
New sport route right of Forsinian Motspur.
A. Wainwright 30/05/07

My Hoover craft is full of Eels F6b.
New route on right end of crag, equipped and climbed by R Mirfin. 2006.

Mini Bus Stop F5+ (F6a?) New route right of My Hoovercraft...equipped and climbed by I Lloyd-Jones, L Body, I Martin 22/05/07

Fridge F6b+. New bolts and lower off. 1/07

Freezer F6b+ New route right of Fridge. P Targett 26/05/07

Upper Level (Above and behind Solstice and Equinox etc)

Finatic F6c New route (At the back of the bay above and behind Fools Gold) takes a line between 2 fins of rock 3 bolts to a lower off. FA Ian Lloyd-Jones and Phil Targett 15/12/07
Jenga F4 New route takes the well cleaned corner via 4 bolts to a double resin bolt lower off. FA Ian Lloyd-Jones 13/12/07
Bosch Stop Quarry F6a+ New route takes the shallow groove left and round the corner from Jenga. 4 bolts to a double resin bolt lower off. FA Ian Lloyd-Jones 13/12/07
Bish Bash Bosch F6a+ New route left of Bosch Stop Quarry.Start on a sloping ledge 3 bolts lead the way to a double resin bolt lower off. (The lower off can't be seen from the last bolt..keep climbing and it soon appears!) FA Ian Lloyd-Jones 14/12/07
The Big Easy F4 new route. Takes the short slab up on the left when walking behind the fools gold wall. 3 bolts to a double bolt belay. FA Phil Targett 02/0308
Jagged Face F4 New Route. Start just right of The Big Easy 3 bolts to a shared lower off. F.A. Michael Hurst, Brett Wedley, Tim Muller 21/05/08

New Sector-Bus stop Wall.
This is the untouched wall on the left as one enters the area.The wall is crowned by what might have appeared to be a dangerous wall of slate.Prior to undertaking three projects here I naturally examined the top and found it acceptable after removing a few loose blocks-the wall is stable.But ultimately no slate crag can be guaranteed totally safe from stonefall.
I have completed one route and cleaned and renovated an old one and two others are in the project stage.

Septuagenarian F6a 25m.
The route starts at a clean slab in the middle of the wall below a cleaned overhang.Climb directly over this to gain a cleaned but shattered ramp(more cleaning needed-but will improve with traffic and my further input) Move right along the sloping ramp to a line of 3bolts leading steeply up to a double bolt and ring lower off .6 Bolts protect.
FA: Colin Goodey,Sue Goodey & Diane Kelly.11th August 2009.

Ferrero Roche MVS (F5a).
This is the renovated version of an old route(Mud Slide Slim of 1986-following the obvious corner on the right) The route has been stripped of huge amounts of loose rock,heather,ferns,mud ,grass and dust and twin lower offs fitted-all aimed at making the route more popular.The route is potentially very good and will improve with further use.
Cleaned and renamed with first accenionists permission by:
Colin Goodey, Sue Goodey and Diane kelly. 8th August 2009.

Two projects are ongoing and have been examined: one to left of Septuagenarian and the other up the wall to the right of that route.
These lines will be completed in September after I return from Scotland.Please respect. C.G.

Bus stop Wall.
Second new route on this wall:
'First Stop' F5a- Takes the clean grey buttress on the extreme left side of crag
Very pleasant climbing past 3 bolts to twin lower off.
FA-Colin Goodey and Sue Trainer 14th October 2009

'Comfort Zone' F 5b - A very pleasant natural line on the towering buttress above and behind Solstice and Equinox. Start in an obvious square cut recess on the left side of the buttress.Climb steeply through an overhang to gain easier but pleasant climbing above past three bolts to double lower off. FA : Colin and Sue Goodey
8th October 2009.

California

MikeRaine — Wed, 23 Sep 2009 15:48:16 CDT

California Wall

All bolts have been replaced bolt for bolt, as close as possible to the exsisting placements. There were two bolt belays place over the top of the crag, one at the top of Waves of Inspiration, about 2metres back from the edge near a little gully. The second was on top of Central Sadness and is easily found by finding the slate shed. There is one bolt inside and one outside the hut.

The following route recieve the treatment. All re-equipped 04/07.

Simply Peach E5 6b. Peg replaced by a bolt.

Sad Old Red

Spider Pants E6 6b. New bolts and belay. 04/07

Central Sadness. E5 6a. New Bolts and Belay. 04/07

Sombre Music. E6 6b. New Bolts. 04/07

The Big Sur E6 6b. New Bolts. 04/07

Waves of Inspiration. E5 6a New Bolts. 04/07

Stairway to Silence. E6 (or is it E7?). New Bolts. 04/07

Tambourine Man F8a
New route up obvious corner 10m left of California Arete.
F.A: Peter Robins [16.04.07].

The California Express F3+
New fun route [10/06/08] linking California with Serengeti. From California bottom, ascend the scree then bear back to the right and walk along a vegitated shelf between two trees, from the top of the slate steps start at the left. "Climb the arete following 4 bolts to mantal finish and twin bolt chained anchor on the shelf above". (Lower-off sport style or bring up your second and go through the tunnel to the left onto Serengeti - also useful in reverse as an abseil line into California)
FA. H. Gilbert & S. Ratcliffe

Collosus Area

Haroldw — Sat, 04 Jul 2009 17:27:27 CDT

Bella Lugosi Slab

Horse Latitudes F6a+***. Re-Equipped as a sports route with lower off.02/07

Bella Lugosi is Dead E1 **.

Alive and Kicking F6a.* Re-equipped as a sports route with lower off. 02/07 (Quite a long reach for the good hold at the top of the niche - If you can't reach; it feels a grade harder as the alternative hold is a poor pinchy thing a couple of inches lower down)

Catrin E2 5b. New route two bolts to the right of Alive and kicking finish up the last part of A & K. 03/07 (Felt more like 5C and a number of people I've spoken to agree) (Why trad grade for this and sport for the other two bolted lines? This seemed marginally the hardest so 6a+/6b. Straightforward to keep R of A&K at the top if you wish (runout if you don't use a bolt on A&K though): HaroldW)
F.A: Llion Moris, Mark Reeves

Colossus Wall
The top bolt belay for colosus wall that is common on many routes has been replaced. 10/06

Jack of Shadows E4. New Bolt. 2/07
-First pitch is not F6c+ but E4 and you can lower-off.
Big Wall Party E5. New Bolts. 8/08
Major Headstress E5. New Bolts. 8/08
Ride the Wild Surf E4. New Bolts. 10/06
Colossus E3. New Bolts. 10/06.

Gideon Quarries

chriswatkins — Sun, 19 Apr 2009 06:39:45 CDT

These are the Forgotten Quarries, whose routes were poorly described or mislaid completley, resulting in these holes getting maybe only two or three visitors a year. This is a shame, because they house Adventure with a capital A! The revitalisation has begun though, with route cleaning and bolt replacement underway, I've even started reopening the long blocked tunnel between Filmset and Gideon. This page is, therefore, for the disemination of truth! A number of the route and access descriptions in the most current (HB) guide are questionable. Many routes are rather odd, given the line that they take (e.g. for Layed Back Boys (look for the rusty bolts holding on the flake!), while other descriptions are confusing (e.g. for Pandora Plays Sax- The finish is up the left of the detaching arete /cornice, up a solid slab). Much of the old guide was lifted word for word from Paul William's 1987 Llanberis guide; this makes me wonder what level of scrutiny was given to the routes in the intervening years! (This is hopefully where this page can help) What follows is what we've learnt so far.....

Gideon Quarry
It is possible to scramble in and out of gideon via a cable found sprouting below Cracking up. This is mainly safe.

An alternative, and much safer proposition for access to the Gideon slab routes is from above. It's very easy to access the top of the route from an assortment of paths leading up from the road. If you haven't got a 100m abb rope then ab in as the guide. If you have (or an 80m one at a push) locate a smooth round boulder 20m back from the edge above the main slab. this has a subterreanian thread. equalise to a nut amoungst the stacked slate next to it and you're away.
News

Been cleaning routes on the gideon slab, so all bar the crux overlap of ultra cricket zone has had a spring clean. Oh yes i pretty much left the traverse of gideon alone, cause thats the point really isn't it. 22/5/07
The digging in the tunnel is going well......

The Main (worthwhile?)routes of gideon quarries are as follows
Gideon and pandora plays sax both bold HVS's, pandora being sightly better quality, guidebook descriptions are adequate, the finish being up the cleanest most solid looking bit of rock left of the arete riding down the slab on scree ball bearings.
Ultra cricket zone is an E4 5c whose 2nd pitch takes the main overlap on the right of the gideon slab, before rejoining pandora. Its 1st pitch follows the hairline crack 2-3m left of the gideon/pandora start, and is described in the old guide as pandora direct.

Best value route on the slab is:
Giddy variations on a theme, a lost route (read badly described) E2ish not HVS, here is an accurate description:
Giddy Variations on a Theme 78m E2 5b ** The best route on the slab, exhilarating and heart stoppingly serious. This starts 6m left of the start of Gideon at a little ledge, and thrusts boldly up the centre of the slab. It was originally done solo, and given HVS.
1. 18m 5b. Launch up the seam on leading right off the ledge until a shothole gives thank God protection in the form of a folded over rock 7 (or a very small tricam). The slab above gives way to precarious padding to the lower ledge system where a sapling spouting crack gives enough gear to belay off.
2. 60m 5b. Climb up the crack you’re belayed to, then traverse left 5m along the upper ledge system until below a slim groove, which is right of a larger chossier overlap. Build a nest of rps, sky hooks and other articles of faith(agnostics can rummage in the break leftwards for a good cam 2.5) then commit to the seam until it is possible to pad left to the slab’s main overlap via a large erosion pocket. Follow this overlap to a couple of large wires. From here aim for the Pandora finish exit, a long way above. The route originally went left around the corner from the Pandora finish and scaled the hideous tottering overhang, you can do this if you must. (21.2.87)

*Giddy one, an open groove, E3 6a, on the Gideon terrace. peg replaced with bolt 7/9/07, probably high in the grade.

Right of this is a new route, 3bolts up a blunt arete to a bolt belay:
***The Hand of Morlock 14m E4 6a if done properly (F6c+ if you use a cheating stick) A scary rock up into an undercut gains the first bolt, from which a series of pulls and lay aways gains the sloping top and a bolt belay. T. Hughes and O. Cain (22/8/07)
*The Gnarly SPAR Kid 12m E2 5c (F6b?). About 10m to the right of The Hand of Morlock there is a blocky looking arete. Follow the line of two bolts to a two bolt lower off. Difficult moves past the first bolt enables one to reach the second bolt, then a series of pulls on big holds will allow one to reach the lower off. A good route! (Tony Hughes, Greg Oldridge 05/09/07)

Cracking up E3 6b (could be E2 5c) and Cracked up HVS both technical crack types found at the back bay
Uhuru for Mandela is a slab with an overlap below cracking up, and goes at E2. there is a snazzy lower off / abb in in place. 2 bolts (the second one formerly being a peg slightl;y higher up) will allow the iron bar in the wetness to be cinched and the bolder and occaisionly looser upper slab to be tackled. rebolted 15/8/07. (A direct version of this with extra bolts would be good? MR)

The Bone People,E4, and The Bridge Across Forever E5 (needs brushing on ab)go around the big roof left of centre.

Both are now rebolted!

The joint 1st pitch requires a no. 1.5 friend and a few micro wires to ease the bold traverses!
Other wise its bolts. Take Prussiks cause the lobs may leave you in space!
Leave your abb rope in place as the top slab has terminal moss.
Three star routes and an excercise in space walking!

Other than that the routes are variations on a theme or personal adventures that probably aren't worth sharing. There is a couple of undeveloped slabs, but the vertical walls are all either tottering or established roosts of peregrines and crow types.

Filmset Quarry
To get into this hole you can either abb down the gender bender slab, abb down near dark(after dark) or "scramble in". The least proposterous scramble is found on the lefthand side (looking from the road) at a prominent flat topped buttress with a couple of old hold the cliff together type bolts behind it in the grass. The okay scramble is down its right hand side (looking in).

Second Coming could be 6c

The mini towers may yield some new route projects, and the largest heathery tower has been scaled on its righthand side (looking from the road). near dark climbs in the back
right corner and is a good looking E2! abb point/ lower off above. 3 bolts (one peg replacement) lead to boldness above the overlap. Rebolted 15/8/07.

gender bender slab!

Second coming and monseir avantski have been recently ascended and reports say they're great! a top quality, if midgy venue. all routes (bar cliff's) are currently clean.

Mancer Quarry
Otherwise known as the beach. The mancer is pretty much as described in the guide and a very large adventure. Best to belay to one side on the metal bar. The numbers on the direct are: #10 hex 1 #3.5 cam, 4 #4cam, and a six to walk up, other wise large nuts are usefull. The swimming also appears good, if chilly. Kestrels nest in the through cave in the promentary. access through the disused industrial estate. Good crack is found in a bay to the right of the mancer, gained by walking round the lake.

Blah de blah E4 5c and I Dont wanna pickle E4 6a are both rebolted and are reached by walking along the top until you reach an oak and a silver birch growing side by side next to a large rounded boulder. These can be used to get to the belay below, itself above the bergscrund. I've roughly cleaned them, the rock has hollow areas but all the bolts are in good rock. The rock itself is slate with lots of quartz in and around it, giving some very thin but solid climbing (test everything tho. These climbs give a lot of E for their apparent grade, with a thin run out to the first bolt. Is it worth someone good checking them out?

New Routes to the right of the above routes..

Same abb in as above routes gains:

Unnamed at present HVS

Some bolts and trad gear t ogain a crack

N. Walton, M. Crook 9/08

A walk up the scree at the base of the slab up and right gains:

Clipapotomus 6a+/6b *
8 bolts to a crookian lower off.

M. Crook, N. Walton, A. Newton 9/08

Wall in the Hole Quarry
The small flakey hole over the back and right from cracking up.
the next route lies in the shallower non-wall side (downhill)
Twisted Nerve E4 6a/b 12m
Brushed line on the slab on the left. 2 bolts. Go steady with the flakey top out & bendy fence post belay.
(FA, Steve neal 6/7/08)

The Rain Temple
The hole up and left behind Cracking up
Abseil in from large boulder adjacent to fence.
Cabin Fever F6a 35m
Climb out via obvious cleaned slab with crux at approx half-height and one tricky move near top (10 clips).
F.A. M.Crook, N.Walton 15.08.08

Shotgun Quarry
Otherwise known as Ffridd Glyn. Got a bolted vs with evil dog rose on it and a lot of looseness elsewhere. Not very good, and very midgey.

HVS/E1? Unnamed (probably climbed before)
The obvious slab/wall on the right side of the quarry as you enter above the narrow gangway/ledge. Start on the left at a pointy spike which provides a belay of sorts. A crux mantel leads to good holds and gear and easier climbing leads to the top.
18/04/09 Chris Watkins, Rob Greenwood.

The Main Event
We also top-roped one of the obvious big lines on the main wall (selection of belay bolts at top). The route starts up a rightwards slanting flake line with some smart moves leading to a ledge, cruxy moves above via a crucial loose hold leads to the top with difficulty. Great line shame theres no real gear!
18/04/09 Chris Watkins, Rob Greenwood.

Cefn Du Quarry
There are two massive holes at the top of Cefn Du. The upper one is just above where you park your car having driven up from waunfawr, and is called Chwarel Fawr. The lower on is below the upper, towards gideon. This is Cefn Du Quarry. It is easiest to scramble in via the corner furthest down the hill, and the routes will become apparent on your left.
The reclining bloon E4 6a/6b rebolted 20/8/07 cool groove with bolts and an iron bar. one bolt added low down as become flakey.
The New Salesman E4 6b rebolted 20/8/07. top end and probably deserves a star. the bolted arete.
The old Walton bolted groove on the left may not have been done yet...
Nice lines and a really atmospheric quarry.

New Route! the First line up Mount Doom; a striking buttress in Cefn Du Quarry, opposite the new salesman. Start up the scree on the right by the start of a gouged out ledge System.

The Wriggler E1
P1 20m -, shuffle along the ledge with shot holes for pro, to a bolt belay.
P2 30m 5b, exit the dolerite on the left and step back into the slate to ascend to the 1st bolt, after hard bit, follow jugs left to 2nd bolt, go for the summit! Bolt belay over and below the Crest.
Mark Dicken, Ioan Doyle (30/10/08)

Chwarel Fawr
A serene and sedate quarry, mainly containing death. However at the bottom is a diminutive dolerite promentary which has yeilded the following NEW ROUTE!

Way Down in the hole E1
slings and bolts for pro
P1 7m 5a, Up the front face of the 1st dolerite arete, via the pedastal.
P2 12m 5a, Up the left arete of the 2nd arete. Airy.
abseil off or
P3 15m 4a, bad step exit off left via poor spikes.
Mark Dicken, Joe Sterling (24/12/08)

to get in, abseil stake in the corner nearest cefn du quarry, or scramble in following the pine trees.

pack a head torch and wellies and you can take the 500m tunnel to Cefn du quarry and follow it with the Wriggler!

Re-bolting Projects

ILLJ — Thu, 19 Mar 2009 09:06:07 CDT

There are many opinions on what needs addressing first in the quarries, on the whole the process has been driven by individuals becoming passionate over re-equipping areas. If you think a route should be added to the list add a comment.

The ones in yellow are the ones particularly worthy of rebolting

Vivian

-The bathtime prow routes
Sucked away with the scum
Soap on a rope
Le Voleur
Artichokes, Artichokes
Sesame St comes to Llanberis

Muscle beach in general (need concensus on how to do this)

-waterfront far side
Stump rogers
Imperial leather
Working up a lather
Spread ‘em

Bobbys groove

-Waterfront near side
Heinous creature
Sanity claws
Fat lads exam failure
Clap please
Dawes of perception (needs knowledge of the route)

-dwarfs down wards (could all be done on same day)
Dwarf in the Toilet (bolts v. close to orig please)
Watching the sin set
Wakey wakey hands off snakey
Monster kitten belays
Ladder resist

Colditz (finishing off)
Manic strain
Smokeless zone

Powertool resurrection

Rainbow

-Collosus wall
Shazalzabon
Light and darkeness
Wall of flame

-end of the rainbow (slab)
Cwms the dogfish
Jai’a’n

-gerbil abuse level
Homicidal hamster

-cig-arete level
Untouchables (reqires prior knowledge of the route)
The mu mu
Pocketeering
Satisfying frank bruno
Unchain my heart

-german school girls level
Rock dancers daughter
Silver shadow
Monster hamburger eats alien baby (holes already drilled?)

-manatese level
Scratching the beagle
Walls come tumbling down and assoc. routes
Women in stress lower off
Gods between money lower off
Occams razor
Heavens steps lower off
Grey slab
Y rebelwr

Jugs mawr lower off

Twll Mawr
Coeur de lion
Block head
Quarryman
Fire escape
Meltdown
Phil’s harmonica
Wonderful world of walt Disney

Lost world
Prometheus unbound

Full metal jack off
Journey to the centre of the earth
Porphory chair

California
The hobbit
Project left of hobbit
The sneaking
Ya twistin ma melon man
shtimuli
Aultimers groove
California arête abb point
Wedlock holiday
Pitch two
Midnight flier
Unpaid bills

Never neverland - half a days work, but needs some knowledge of the routes
Scheherezade
Machine in the ghost

Dali’s hole
-Conquestadors area
Return of the visitor
Conqustadors - needs knowledge of the route
Stretch class

-Waterfront
Mu hat mu ganja
Simian st
Le cochon

Lob Scouse

Bus stop
Hasta la vista baby lower off
Shoreline

Australia

-in the proccess of being done
Men at work
Sprint finish
North face of the aga

Men of leisure

The Australian- got serac at mo'
Darkeness visible -need full tlc
Eric the fruitbat (poor stainless to remove)
Fetzer/franzia wall

-braich
Sylvanian waters

Mordor and The Lost Worlds

MikeRaine — Sun, 01 Mar 2009 11:46:37 CST

It is hoped that routes like Prometheus Unbound, The Wall Within and Heaven Walls will get re-equipped at some point.

Khyber Pass
XXXposure F6a+ / 6b? New Route, the short arete left of Dragon Slayer 3 Bolts + lower off. An exposed and photogenic little route high above the void of Twll Mawr...FA I Lloyd-Jones and P Targett (Both Led) 6 / 7 / 07

Heaven Walls
Sauron F8b 25m **
Awesome searing crackline on the big blank wall left of The Dinorwig Unconquerable.

F.A: James McHaffie (3/3/08)

Dinorwig Unconqerable - new bolt belay, you now have the option of lowering off.
The Long and Winding Road - new bolts, extra one to protect the 'turbo glide' as lassoing the peg prooved un-popular (!) and the peg is poor now, I've left it in though cos it'll add a bit charachter as you ascend, there is scope for the odd small wire placement too.
Pain Killer - have replaced the belay bolts and cleaned up the route again, the bolts will need maillons and the route will need another brush when it's dried out. MR 1/3/09

Rainbow Slab

Hoseyb — Fri, 02 Jan 2009 10:19:37 CST

Rainbow Slab

The abseil point has been replaced as has the lower off/belay on the prow on top of Poetry Pink. All bolts replaced bolt for bolt.

Bungles Arete F8b. Most of the bolts have been replaced, the only only left to replace need drilling out because there is nowhere esle for it to go. 1/07
Memorable Stains E3 6a. New Bolts and Lower off. 3/07
Cure for a Sick Mind E7 7a. new Bolts. 3/07
Poetry Pink E5 6a. New Bolts. 3/07
Raped By Affection E7. New bolts. 10/06
Ringing in Urea’s E6. New bolts. 10/06
Cystitus By Proxy E5. It should be noted that an the top RP placement in the crack has blown, making this feel even bolder. New bolts. 10/06
Splitstream E5. New bolts. 10/06
Stiff Syd’s Cap E6. New bolts. 10/06

Prick up Urea’s E6 (variation). New bolts. 10/06

Over the Rainbow rebolted 18.03.08 new double bolt belay on ledge and an extra bolt addedd to eliminate 'gripper clipper'. First pitch still trad, MR.

Twll Mawr

pete_robins — Tue, 14 Oct 2008 06:15:05 CDT

Combat Rock Area

Combat Rock Feels more like soft ish E1- 5b Worth one star.
Rhyfelwr E1+ 5b. Good micro now protects initial section. Above, climbing is more straightforward and safer than Combat Rock.

Colour of Money E4 6a New Bolts and lower off.12/06

Purple Haze E3 5c. New Lower off. NB the first bolt on Colour purple can now be clipped on this route. 12/06. Definitely three stars, a great route.

Color Purple E4 6b. New bolts and lower off. 12/06

Cyclone B E3 6a. New Bolts and lower off. 12/06

Lethal Injection E2 5c. New Bolts and lower off. 12/06

Legal Murders E3 6a. New Bolts and lower. Peg replaced with bolts. 12/06

Top Gear E1 5b. New lower off. 12/06

The routes below the path(bird man etc.)this can now be accessed by bolted abseil station that also acts as a belay to approach via the heart stopping traverse to the alcove.

Drunken Laughs E1/2 5b. new route in the back of the alcove. Tackle the boulder wall to gain the flake crack and totter onto the bolt. all is left is the slab and the lower off is yours. [FA Matt Pugh, Mark Dicken]

The West Wall
Abb Point to the Quarryman Ledge has been replaced, as has the bolt belay on that ledge, which belongs to the wonderful world of walt... THis means it is possible to get to the bottom of Twll Mawr in 2 abbs. Handy for nesting season.

The Quarryman E8 6c,6b,6c,7a
Bolts on New York belay replaced. Most bolts replaced on top pitch.

The North Wall

Here it is as promised, it also includes abandoned projects and escape points..

Opening Gambit 178m MXS
The original route of Twll Mawr, it crosses a band best described as “Geologically Lively” and has significantly altered since Joe Browns probings in 1971, the description is currently on its third rewrite, hence the upgrade from HVS to MXS. Potential ascentionists should be prepared for substantial looseness on all pitches varying from mild exfoliation to tottering of Jenga proportions. Start at the top of a scree cone in a corner, below the Quarryman ledge.

45m –. Pick your way up the scree coated ledges to arrive at the Quarryman ledge, where the bolt belay of the Wonderful World.. provides some safety.
25m 4c. Traverse gingerly right wards to a deep groove, ascend this to a sloping ledge. This is followed to a “Bad Step” above is a large bay where a thread belay can be made amongst the boulders.
33m 5a. Pick your way across the bay to its right arête. This used to be barred by a huge detached pillar known as the Banana flake, the tottering tower left by its demise should be treated with respect. Surmount the blocks to the left of the arête to gain some reliable gear in some hairline cracks. Monkey out onto the crystal ledge on the arête, and ignoring the 100m of air beneath your heels, mantle and gain the ledge above. A possible belay, but requires some inventiveness. Ascend the tower of blocks above the belay to gain a bay of steeply sloping scree. Good belay at the back at a slanting crack.

5, 6 and possibly 7. 75m 4c. Layback up the crack and take the easiest line up the variety of ledges above, belaying where applicable, until reaching a point where the faultline of Hamadryad terminates in a steep wall. The ledge here provides the final belay. Exit left along the ledge, over a hut roof.
Descent is either up towards heavens walls and over to Serengeti’s yellow wall incline, or down towards Watford gap, for the Bar of Soap scramble descent, or the Abb station of Drunken Laughs. (9/4/71) Replacement pitches 3& 4 climbed 02 M. Dicken, Tom Shaw. P3 re-reclimbed 5/10/07 M. Dicken J. Byrne.

Taith Mawr 283m E4 6a (got to be worth some stars..)
The Epic Girdle, ED2 is more like it! To get it in a single push will definitely require a summer’s day, prolonged dry weather and an early start. Begin by abbing into the Quarrymans ledge and belay as for Wonderful World..

25m 4c. As for Opening Gambit pitch 2.
18m 5a. As For Opening Gambit pitch 3, to the “possible” belay on the arête, big cams and an array of slings, hooks, whatever..
25m 5b. Traverse right to the end of the ledge and drop down 1m onto a continuation ledge. This terminates in a ledge with a shot hole in it which will take a folded nut. Continue to gingerly traverse right with hands on a rail of flakes, which takes a sky hook here and there. Finally reach a vertical crack and some good gear. Drop down a little and continue traversing to a hanging flake. Ascend this to belay in the groove of Hamadryad.
40m 5b. A poorly protected pitch. Follow Hamadryad until level with the Bastard Bush of Twll Mawr. Traverse underneath this to gain a big ledge on the right hand arête of the Hamadryad groove. Climb up a series of sloping ledges, keeping slightly right of the arete, until level with a gorse infested ledge in a corner on the right. This is your belay, bring secateurs.
40m 5a. Climb the groove behind the belay until it is possible to step right and up onto a sloping ledge. Slither right to a big flat hold and continue until a jug allows upward movement. More slopey slithering follows rightward, below a perched terminator block, around a rib into the groove beyond. Clamber up onto the ledges on the right, gain the dolerite arete and mantle to the belay of True Finish.
20m 4a. walk along the ledge and down to the Razor’s edge belay below.
30m 6a. Now it gets serious, check the daylight and seepage, as the next 2 pitches are inescapable. Down climb Razor’s Edge a few meters to the first significant sloping ledge. To your right is a series of sloping holds terminating in a gap, above and beyond which there is a slate spike and another slightly higher foot ledge. Lasso the spike, and rock over up onto the ledge, poor cam slot above, and a rounded jug. Bridge across towards the arête on huge foot holds and limbo under the impending holdless headwall to gain the jug on the arête proper(crux). Scamper round, remembering to protect your second, and belay in the corner below.
30m 5c. Climb above the belay until it is possible to pull out right onto a sloping ledge, shot hole protection. Insinuate right around the sharp arête and pop for the jug in the right wall. Campus to the ledge (pro), and continue right down a bad step to a vegetated ledge. Belay on the far right at a crack.
45m 4b. Drop down to the heathery terrace. Traverse above the belay of Bushmaster, above the tunnel entrance, and up towards the chimney of Scorpion, drop right and proceed to the huge perched block at the end of the terrace. Surmount this and belay on the ledge above.
10m 4a. Follow the ledge back left until it is possible to gain the Kyber Pass.

M. Dicken, J. Byrne (P1-4 5/10/08, P5-8 19/02/07, P9-10 M.D. solo 28/01/08) The

Punters Retreat 55m E3 5b
This is a handy exit from the belay at the end of Pitch 4 of Twll Mawr. If say, you got benighted, or scared. Leave the bay heading left to gain a series of sloping ramps. This should lead you to a blocky tower with a V shaped cam slot on its right hand side. Ascend this tower and head upwards to a steep bay with a stepped arête projecting from its middle, ascend the arête, shuffle left and ascend to a verdant shelf capped bay just below the top (possible belay). Climb onto the shelf on the right and bumble left around a sharp arête to an easier exit. M. Dicken, J.Byrne (5/10/07)

next line right after Opening Gambit is:
Hamadryad E3 5c.**
First pitch starts at a large dolerite boulder, weave up to the hanging slab, climbed on the right, then exited via a leftwards traverse to gain the ledge and belay. rest as for prev guide.

Then
Razors edge E3/4 6b step off the scree straight to the end of the 1st pitch by the chain. bolts replaced for the true finish and where relevent on razors edge. Razors edge breaks off right, the true finish (E4)* goes up,ascending seporate sections of the wall and seporate razors. (rebolted1/08) True finish pitch cleaned 08/08

Next right is:
Bushmaster E3 6a/b *
Amazing second pitch, Starts in the yellow groove with the NEW groove in the left wall (the result of the removal of hanging death) this is followed until its is possible to escape onto the left arete, which forms a rib upto a flat gorsey ledge below a steep slab- this is the belay! a mixture of the topo and the old guide will see you to the top.
Absolutely knackering groove, we combined it with the top pitches of scorpion, for that 1000 mile stare effect!

Last route starting at the bottom is:
Scorpion MXS
First bit is a tad loose, its easy ground, but the shelves are covered with slate blocks, these require tip toeing around.

THe line out of the tunnel right is R Kay's Puff The Cracked up Dragon grade?

The South Wall

The Bolt Belay for Wolfhound and The Birdman of Caer Bellan has been replaced. These routes are accessable from the abb station at the start of the traverse to the alcove.

Sport routes not in the old guide. bolts seem stainless or at least sound, rumoured to be in the low to mid F7's 40 and 30m odd respectively.

Right-hand line (In the Line of Fire?) - FA: S.Mayers 1990's
A good F7c+ with a thin upper section.

Left-hand line looks less good.

Practically esoteric E2 Checked original description and has definately fallen down, at least in part, and the area is now a tad unstable (further left of these routes as you look at the piccy).

Nantlle Valley-Dorethea

thereal-Sibeal — Tue, 07 Oct 2008 21:08:11 CDT

The nantlle vally has some impressive old slate workings and a number of often overlooked muti pitch trad crags,Most people will be familiar with the winter routes in the area but there is a surprising amount of unclimbed rock here.Anyone interested in new routing with the motivation to explore and develop new areas will find an entire valley full of unexplored slate holes and esoteric rock buttereses just awaiting some TLC and a trad rack... or a 24v drill.

Lower Nantlle- Dorethea

Approach: Drive through the village of penygros heading for talysarn. follow the road thru talysarn(with a left and a right-please drive slowly!) till you end up at the quarry entrance.Beware divers in landrovers ragging up the path.

The first hole on the left is the car dumping pool,who knows how it got this name!.The very steep wall at the back stands out as a project for some strong young devil.

Away down to the right is a pool mostly used by herons and ducks that yields some great summer deep water soloing action (inflatable dingy required!) but can u name another slate DWS venue? (dalis hole excluded)

The main pool of dorethea is the site of Trevs Slab and the first new route to be posted in this section.

Hidden up on the left as you enter the quarries from this side is Unknown hole and Gallt y Fedw These areas have massive potential for new routes To access these take a left through a gate 40m down the main road into the quarries,walk up the hill till you can access an obvious level running off to the right,walk along this level and you will come to Unknown hole, after the spike at the head of unknown hole descend down the scree a level and you will end up at Gallt y Fedw.

If you choose to check out these areas please respect any half equipped or cleaned ready for bolting lines.
There is plenty of slate in the dorethea area of nantlle,just watch out for the ninja frogmen.

Exploration Snaps

------New Routes -------

Dorethea Main Pool:

Trevs Tribute - E2 5b
From the main divers carpark walk 50m east to the top of an obvious slabby area.
Absail from the access/belay bolt at the top of the slab to a hanging belay above the waterline. Bust some moves out right and up to gain the right arete of the slab,follow the bolts to the top. FA:Si beal,Andy Scott (05.02.08)

Rainbow Walls

ILLJ — Sun, 15 Jun 2008 10:50:46 CDT

Gerbil Abuse Area

Gerbil Abuse F6c+. Re-bolted 02/07

Vermin on the Rediculous F7b. Re-bolted. 02/07

Spleenal Flick E3 6b. [F6c+?] Re-equipped one bolt added at the top, the rock at the bottom is a little loose. 03/07

Chitra F7c+. Re- bolted. 03/07

Cig-Arete level

Over Taken By Department C F6a New Route, start just left of Taken Over By Department C. Climbs the thin green Dolerite Vein to gain the hanging slab, follow the hairline crack to the lower off . 8 Bolts lead the way. FA Ian Lloyd-Jones, John Roberts and Peter White 15/6/08
Taken Over By Department C F7a. Re-bolted. 03/07.

Slight of Hand F6c. Three bolts to lower off. 3/07

Nik-Arete F6b+. New Route. 25/03/07.
Slab and arete left of Cig-Arete.
F.A: Pete Robins, Mark Reeves, (+one other too ashamed to admit involvement in such a shit route, come on Adam Wainright, own up!)
Waiting on an Angel E1 5b. The obvious groove left by massive rockfall left of Cig-arete. one bolt and a few small wires. 03/07.

Cig-Arete F7b. New bolts one added to stop a ground fall after a rockfall raised the level of the floor and lower off. 09/06.

Where are my Sensible Shoes F7a+. New bolts equipped as a sports route and lower off. 10/06
Where are my Sensible Shoes Direct F7a+
Follow Where are my Sensible Shoes to the break by the final bolt. Surmount the stupendous summit headwall direct via a hold.
FA. Adam Wainwright (unseconded) 25/03/07

Gwion's Groove F6a. clip 1st bolt on Sensible Shoes and follow the bolts into drowning man. 3/07.
F.A: Mark Dicken, Sam Dicken.

Drowning Man F6b. New bolts equipped as a sports route and Lower off. 10/06
Coming up for Air F7a+. Re-bolted (06/2007)
Unchain my Bidoobies vs, appears to actually be Emerald Eyes hs, a previous guidebook mistake. Could probably do with a lower off, as its good, but getting down isn't.
Concorde Dawn. F8a. New route
Up the black wall right Emeral Eyes etc.
F.A: Rob Murfin [2006]

Mau Mau Level

Lots of routes have fallen down on Terry's Wall and Sunk Without Trace. The rest of the wall left of Promontory fell down recently - very impressive!

The Dark Destroyer F7c+ Rebolted 10/07. Old bolts need removing.
True Clip F7b+. New Bolts and lower off. 09/06

Spong (Is good for you) F7c. All bolts other than the first have been replaced and a lower off installed. 09/06
L'Allumette F6c+ Re-bolted. 04/07
Octopussy's Garden - Walrus Wipeout. The shared lower-off of all four routes replaced. 06/07.
Fruity Pear in a Veg Shop Romp. Worth E6. Lower-off added to avoid the most hideous top-out in the quarries.
Fruity Pear Gets Just Deserts E4. Re-bolted. 06/07.

The following routes are on the right end of the Mau Mau Level (a.k.a. The Kennals), but not accessible from the main bit. Access is from up the scree behined Pigs in Space.
Rowan F7c
New route up obvious rightward-facing groove, directly above the winding house on the level below.
F.A. Pete Robins, Ben Bransby [18.04.07]

The New Slatesman F8b 15m
New route up obvious arete right of Rowan.
F.A: Pete Robins (25/02/08)

Doggy-style F7c 12m.
New route up steep wall 20m right of Rowan. It goes up an immaculate holdless corner to a bibivy-ledge then bouldery headwall above.
F.A: Pete Robins [06.06.07]

The Manatese Level

The Manatese E4 6a. Lower-off and bolt added on the headwall above the flake so that you get an extra nice finish and don't have to lower-off tat at the end of the flake.
El Migitio Fagio Rebolted 10/07.
Paradise Lost. New bolts in upper half. Dodgy rock at bottom. Can be climbed via an indirect but solid start up the dolerite on the left at about E2 5c.
The Dark Half F7c+. Mostly new bolts and lower-off.
Heatseeker F7c. Bolts replaced. 12/.06

Vivian Quarry

phil.t — Thu, 29 May 2008 17:16:51 CDT

The East Face of Vivian ED1(E2)

A link up of pitches that deviously winds its way up the East face all of which have been re-equipped, start up Mentil lentils, Monster Kitten, To Bald to be Bold instead of heading to the conscience level traverse down and right into the amazing hanging stance of Turkey Chant, Lower off onto the CL, take in a route on this level (Is it a Crime?) then head to the dervish slab to Last Tango in Paris, traverse across to the dervish belay and climb The Missing Link, swing/climb onto the Ritter sport level and finish up Two Tone. Harder variations exsist! This route is yet to have an in a day ascent!

Water Front Level

Moving Being E4 6b Both bolts on the slab replaced. Old bolts still there. 09/07. Lower off has eco bolt from 2001 (?) and another old bolt.
Monster Kitten. E1. lower off. 2001

Mental Lentils. HVS. new bolts 02/07. New lower off 2001
Time Bandit. F7b? new bolts. 2001.
The Weetabix Connection F6c+ Re-bolted. Old bolts still in place. Placed 2 new bolts on belay/lower off - unfortunately hammer broke on 2nd bolt so this has been left protruding (needs sorting out, perhaps when somebody goes to re-equip Bobby's Groove). Safe enough with the other new and the old bolt for now. 09/07
Two Bolts or Not To Be F7b+ New bolts.Old bolts still there.09/07 Belay/lower off (common with Bobby's Groove) still needs replacing.

Psychotherapy E2. New bolts and lower off. One bolt added near top to protect the better and more sustained direct finish. 02/07

Dwarf Level

Teliffant E4 6a **New double bolt belay and old bolt on crux replaced.Old bolts still there. 09/07
To Bald to be Bold E2 5c *, one bolt replaced, another bolt added to aid a traverse into Turkey Chant making an excellent two pitch E2. Needs old bolt removing.

Turkey Chant E2 5b ***. Two bolt belay install at start, bolts replaced and lower off added, one of the lower off bolts is just over the top of the crag. Needs old bolts removing.

Nostromo wall

Misogynists Discharge. F8a+. Re-equipped and lower off. 12/06
Colditz. F7b+. New lower-off and last two bolts (ran out of drill power for first two bolts). 12/06

Gin Palace F7c. Re-equipped as a sport route. 10/06

Child’s Play F7a+. Re-equipped as a sport route. 12/06

Dervish Slab

Lower off on Comes the Dervish and Last Tango... replaced. Old bolts need removing.

The Missing Link E1/2 5b. New route that climbs the slab above the Dervish, care is need not to knock any debris down, as you traverses the ledge from the dervish belay to the route.

Conscience Slab

The 'very bad step' is now protected by three bolts.
There are two routes just after the 'very bad step'
Abseil bolt placed at base of Spark that set the Flame (to access top of Teliffant) - could also be used to reach and re-quip Watching the Sin Set. Watch out for loose rock on slope (i.e. wear a helmet if you go to re-bolt this).

The Full Monty HVS 5a/E1 5b/F5+?
Follow the line of seven bolts to a lower off. N.B. this pitch is 30 metres long, it's recommended that the belayer ties themselves to the tree.
Mister, Mister E3 5c/F6b?
Start as for The Full Monty then follow the left hand line of bolts to a lower off, N.B. this pitch also is 30 metres long.

Menage a Trois E4 6b new bolts and lower off.

The Sweetest Tabbo E4 6a. new bolts and lower.

Never as Good as the First Time E2 5c new bolts and lower off

Is it a crime? E2 5c. new bolts and lower off. 1 extra bolt by an old worn out RP placement.

Hot Knives Level
Birdsong 6a+. New route. Takes a line up the arete on the left hand side of the level passing 4 bolts to a lower off. Strange crux at the top. F.A. Phil Targett I Lloyd-Jones Both lead 13/05/08

The Hot Knives Level
**The Manimal6b+, the route needs a couple of small wires to get to the first bolt. Rebolted 05/08/07

Velociraptor E2 5b *, new bolts and lower off. Old bolts need removing

Ritter Sport Level

Truffle Hunters Roof F6b+ Rebolted 09/07
Two Tone E2/F6b (direct start to Madness). New Bolts, one lowered to protect hard move. 02/07
*One Step Beyond,E2 5c, new route continutes Two Tone up left past three bolts to lower off, overall grade E2/3 6a. FA Mike Raine, Mark Reeves 05/08/07

*The Madness E1/F6a. New bolts, one added lower down, and a couple repositioned.
Private Smells E5 6b Rebolted 05/08/07
General Odours E4 6a, Rebolted 05/08/07
**Ritter Sport E3 5c Rebolted 05/08/076

Pas Du Chevre Level

Pas du Cherve F7b+. One extra bolted added to give 4 bolts to lower off. 02/07

Pas da Dutchy F6a. Two bolts to lower off. New route to the left of PDC. 02/07

Placing Resin Bolts with Capsule

dringo — Fri, 21 Sep 2007 08:06:42 CDT

For those not familiar with the process of placing resin anchors with a capsule, there is a video on youtube to help you learn the skills you need. It covers the whole process from start to finish and is ten minutes long. You will need broadband to watch the video and it may take several minutes to buffer enough information to play from start to finish.

If you have any question contact Dringo(mark reeves) or Chris Parkin, via this website.

Click here for video

BMC Bolts

chrisparkin — Wed, 11 Jul 2007 04:20:25 CDT

As part of the BMC better bolts campaign the North Wales Bolt Fund has been awarded over 1300 bolts for re-equipping across North Wales. These bolts are specifically aimed at re-equipping exsisting routes bolt for bolt and part of the process is that the BMC requires us to monitor where the bolts are placed. To make life as easy as possible I have added this page so we can add here as well as in the main text which routes in the quarries have been equipped by this supply of bolts.

To help clarify some potential grey areas the BMC bolts are not for:

New Routes

Retro Bolting

Replacing pegs

As such if any routes require bolts in the above sense then we will have to use Bolts sourced from the bolt fund. The BMC bolts will be 12mm petzl studs with petzl hangers and resin Fixe stainless steel (not marine grade) The NWBF bolts are 10 &12mm studs with Fixe hangers plus the odd DMM Eco.This will take a great deal of care to keep the sources of bolts separate.

Route Equipped by the BMC Better Bolts Campaign