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re-attaching the tube!!!!!
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Discussion Forum
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Today, 12:11 PM EST by
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Thread started: Today, 11:18 AM EST
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hello all, i have been thinking of replacing the tube on` luning the tube` i believe it will not be a huge problem to do this. me and phil will need a few volunteers, and some chain and bolts, of which i am hopeing the bolt fund may be able to help with.
there is enough length in the remaining tube, if it is dragged further along the level.
if anyone knows of any reason why this should not be carried out, then please let me know!
here`s hopeing !
cheers all,CUITQ, chris.
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Last Reply:
RE: re-attaching the tube!!!!!
By: ,
Today, 12:11 PM EST
What a great idea!
Count me in as a volunteer if everyone's happy with this.
I think we should invite Cliff Philips along for the occassion....
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ROute left of Zambesi
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Dali's Hole
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Wednesday, 6:07 AM EST by
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Thread started: Oct 5 2009, 3:25 PM EDT
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Well done on getting this route done Jim, sorry we didn't do it sooner. Hope you don't give it an of-fence-ive name!!
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Last Reply:
RE: ROute left of Zambesi
By: ,
Wednesday, 6:07 AM EST
1. Colin Goodey is a pensioner with a drill, I think thats a fact, and fair play to him!
2. Did A.R know you were to bring up the retro bolting of his(not that he 'owns' the route necessarily) route specifically at that meeting?
3. If his route is so crap then why did you feel it was worth putting bolts into it?
4. Carefull calling other peoples routes 'crap' unless you're non of yours aren't..
5. People have been beavering away up near the skyline since the rebolting began, well over a couple of years ago, mainly trying to get well away from what was happening at Dali's.. oh the irony!
Basically, although it's been amusing to watch this little fued it's also strangely annoying to see the wiki taken up by it. Oh and not forgetting that it doesn't exactly present a united front to any organisations that may be interested in our activities in the quarries.. Rant over. Jon Ratcliffe
I think I may have just wasted 10 minutes of my life there....
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Car parking at the Skyline level
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Discussion Forum
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Sunday, 10:56 AM EST by
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Thread started: Oct 28 2009, 4:09 PM EDT
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Just a gentle reminder to all. Its important to make sure that the gate at the top is not blocked by cars. Its a great way of getting to the skyline area but we need to be mindful not to restrict access for emergency vehicles, or the local farmer etc that may need to use it. Cheers Phil,
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Last Reply:
RE: Car parking at the Skyline level
By: ,
Sunday, 10:56 AM EST
Yep definately worth a mention in the guide in that case Chris, I'll pass it on to Panton. It's a good tme saver that car park, t'would indeed be a shame to add to the access problem.
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calummonkey |
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Rockfall in Never Never Land area
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Never Never Land
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Oct 30 2009, 7:18 PM EDT by
jonnyr |
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Thread started: Oct 22 2009, 4:07 PM EDT
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There has been a big rockfall up to the right of 'Obsession', the ground is well over a metre higher. Although the rockfall hasn't affected 'Obsession' but my climb 'The Finger Slicer' has almost totally fallen down but for the first few metre, and it didn't get a 2nd ascent ;.), I'll take the opportunity to say that it was actually several grades harder than E3 and I was actually sandbagging! Some good boulder problems have also been buried in the rockfall.
'Ghengis' is probably a gnarly E5 now after the flakey crack thing where the peg and gear placements were has totally fallen down. The crux is now a solo proposition unless a side runner is used on the 2nd bolt of 'Short Stories' is clipped (but that's cheating!). I also think it's worth pointing out that 'Machine in the Ghost' is actually E6 6b and not E4 6a, and I'm not the only one that thinks that!
Also climbed a great new route here 'Dark and Scary Stories' at E5 6b and really soft for the grade, get out and repeat it!
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Last Reply:
RE: Rockfall in Never Never Land area
By: jonnyr,
Oct 30 2009, 7:18 PM EDT
No worries Colin, you're welcome. I'll leave them for you and let you know. As for the grade, I thought it was maybe a little soft for 6b but couldn't say if it warranted a down grade as such. Good effort on the route Colin and I sincerely hope it won't be affected by this rock fall in the future.
Speak soon
Jon
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Major rock fall 'Obsession' area. This route is badly affected.
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Discussion Forum
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Oct 29 2009, 5:17 PM EDT by
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Thread started: Oct 29 2009, 5:17 PM EDT
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Please refer to my reply to Callum's 'Rock fall in Never Never Land' area thread.
Cheers, Jon.
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general map of the different climbing areas in dinorwic quarries.
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Discussion Forum
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Oct 26 2009, 4:24 PM EDT by
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Thread started: Oct 24 2009, 6:05 PM EDT
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the venue names dont give me a clue where the routes are.is there a diagram of the area?.north wales slate has not been published yet and the old slate guidebook is out of pring and impossible to get hold of.ill be photographing climbers in north wales next year and also bouldering photography.no problem with that as i have simon pantons book.
cheers
gareth
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De Bolting
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Home
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Oct 25 2009, 5:09 PM EDT by
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Thread started: Oct 15 2009, 2:53 PM EDT
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Due to the sensitive Access situation at Dali's Hole, the poor quality of our new routes there! + the need for bolts to equip better quality projects elsewhere, Phil T and myself have decided to remove the hangers from: Slip Not, Why Not, Aardman Productions and Le Petit Pois. This will be done at some point over the next few weeks / months. Hope it doesn't upset anyone too much!
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Last Reply:
RE: De Bolting
By: ,
Oct 25 2009, 5:09 PM EDT
hi col, i suggest you do what ever makes you feel right, as you, along with others, have put a lot of time and effort into this and other areas, and as the f/a of many routes at dali`s, it is only you who should remove your hangers.
if all of us monitor dali`s as i`m sure we are allready, and notice any continued problems with the area, maybe this could be raised on a seperate thread, that will hopefully help along any decisions that may or may not need to be made in the future! hope that helps, CUITQ, chris.
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colinandsue |
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Bus stop
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Discussion Forum
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Oct 13 2009, 8:46 AM EDT by
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Thread started: Sep 27 2009, 10:35 AM EDT
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I have been away for several weeks in Scotland and Chamonix since exploring some new ground at Bus stop in early August resulting in a new sport route:Septuagenarian and renovating an old route of Franco Ferrero's.Please, if anyone has repeated my route Sept....can they comment on the grade I gave it-F6a ?Having climbed extensively in the F5a-F6a bracket and partic in chamonix valley last week I thought this appropriate/consistant.However your views would be welcomed.I intend to finish 2 other routes on this wall next week-if for no other reason but to compensate for the loss of Dali's easier routes which now appear(I'm told)lie inside a concentration camp like fence!
Colin.
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Last Reply:
RE: Bus stop
By: ,
Oct 13 2009, 8:46 AM EDT
Hi Colin, Hope you are well. Word of warning... there's some character called Cliff Scabby (or, something like that!). He "skanks" other people's projects so, watch out!! Jim.
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RE: Antiquity
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Australia
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Oct 9 2009, 11:16 AM EDT by
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Thread started: May 15 2007, 5:57 PM EDT
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This route is definitely not the best HVS in the quarries by a very long way. Firstly it is probably worth E1 for the runout and the quality of the rock, and only one star. I am looking forward to the comments martin
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Last Reply:
RE: Antiquity
By: ,
Oct 9 2009, 11:16 AM EDT
cleaned the traverse in from `Act Naturally`, so the nervey traverse, is at least more solid before you clip the first bolt, the rest of ` Antiquity` could probably do with a clean, as could `Ronald Ragan`, but i am not sure if people want this, so leaving for now, if the general consensous would be to clean them both up, then some volunteers would be welcome, cheers!
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phil.t |
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Australia ( up and around the skyline levels )
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Australia
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Oct 8 2009, 5:57 PM EDT by
phil.t |
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Thread started: Oct 8 2009, 5:57 PM EDT
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Reasonable amount of activity going on up here. Why not make the trek up and join the fun. From vs to 7b theres plenty to keep you interested
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Dali's hole PhotoTopo
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Dali's Hole
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Sep 26 2009, 4:44 PM EDT by
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Thread started: Sep 26 2009, 6:04 AM EDT
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Any chance of sorting out a PhotoTopo for Dali's hole? I often point beginner slate climbers there. I'll even take the photo if needed as I already take photos for other forthcoming guidebooks. Guess we just need someone to draw some lines in the right place.
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Last Reply:
RE: Dali's hole PhotoTopo
By: ,
Sep 26 2009, 4:44 PM EDT
think we need to draw people away from dali's atm with all the trouble its causeing... dont wanna loose the quarries... also they are building a big fence across it. point beginers up to the sideings out of view
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adam06 |
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snakes and ladders (and tunnels)
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Home
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Sep 26 2009, 4:40 PM EDT by
adam06 |
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Thread started: Jul 14 2009, 5:08 AM EDT
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saw an artical in the latest climb magazine about this... ive heard of it before, but never found out where it goes. anyone got any extra info?
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the top bolt on looning the tube?
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Australia
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Sep 24 2009, 7:18 PM EDT by
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Thread started: Aug 18 2009, 10:04 AM EDT
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Should this be pulled as there is a decent size 3 cam slot just a few feet higher and should be able to get some gear in before it. It just seems in a sensless place?
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Last Reply:
RE: the top bolt on looning the tube?
By: ,
Sep 24 2009, 7:18 PM EDT
My memory is perhaps a little hazy - I remember the cam was totally bomber and in a parrallel section a foot or so long. Maybe I don't remember correctly.
Think the presence of a bolt where good trad pro could go on a classic slate line sets the wrong president for the rest of the quarries. Nothing wrong with bolts on slate but when bomber pro is available, its not right.
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new fencing
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Discussion Forum
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Sep 23 2009, 8:28 PM EDT by
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Thread started: Sep 23 2009, 8:28 PM EDT
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have just got back from the qurrys and new fencing is being put up starting under lob scouse and im guessing it wiss go all the way across. fences are about 3 meters heigh. just thought i'd let people know. probs best avoiding dalis and walking over the left side if u wanna go calafornia
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Telescopic Stem Master
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Dali's Hole
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Sep 21 2009, 4:54 PM EDT by
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Thread started: Jul 28 2007, 2:33 PM EDT
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Excellent moves, a little gem and well worth anyones time. Probably English 6a if your 6'2" like me and it's safe as houses if you can make the long reaches to clip the bolts. Could be scary for shorties, worth a star in my book
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Last Reply:
RE: Telescopic Stem Master
By: ,
Sep 21 2009, 4:54 PM EDT
"Excellent moves, a little gem and well worth anyones time. Probably English 6a if your 6'2" like me and it's safe as houses if you can make the long reaches to clip the bolts. Could be scary for shorties, worth a star in my book" Im 5.5" with -2" reach excluding the left arete I though 6c+/7a?.... is a realllllly hard 6b otherwise?
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New 1 bolt route next to the tunnle.
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Dali's Hole
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Sep 21 2009, 2:04 PM EDT by
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Thread started: Sep 21 2009, 2:04 PM EDT
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There is a new bouldery 1 bolt route to slightly run out lower off going up the crimps on the right arete next to the tunnel.... can anyone shed light on its details..... Its short but funky :O)
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Horse Latitudes
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Collosus Area
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Aug 24 2009, 1:20 PM EDT by
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Thread started: Oct 1 2007, 7:28 AM EDT
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Re the comment 'There is ok "slate" pro to make it safe enough and I think the bolts should be pulled.'
There may have been 'enough' before but the voting of the feet is clear enough. It's probably seen more traffic this year than it has since the FA. I know its 'purity' has been spoiled, but in a good way. Feel free to spurn the clips and leave it as an attractive accessible clip up, there's more than enough head trips left.
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Last Reply:
RE: Horse Latitudes
By: ,
Aug 24 2009, 1:20 PM EDT
Erm, I think that's exactly pboltc's point, that he thinks it should have been left as it is Jim in the first place in which case it wouldn't have any bolts in it. Anyways, it's bolting turned out to be a bit of an acid test so to speak which resulted in any future retro bolting of existing routes being considered even more carefully than perhaps before. Either way, with regard to this route it's a tired subject and one which really should be put to bed now. Please please please though don't use the "you don't have to clip them" reasoning, it shows a distinct lack of understanding of the issue.
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QUARRY ACCESS
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Discussion Forum
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Aug 12 2009, 6:33 AM EDT by
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Thread started: Aug 8 2009, 5:51 PM EDT
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asked guard at gate today, when and if access is coming back into play, and he said this wednesday, (12th), everything should be gone, and there just putting a couple of fences back up!
so unless anyone has any more info, i presume we can get back in there?
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Last Reply:
RE: QUARRY ACCESS
By: ,
Aug 12 2009, 6:33 AM EDT
hi mike. long time no hear. you state that they are erecting a 2.4m high fence. does this encompass (?) the use of the gate or are they getting rid of the gate completely? many thanks and see you soon. jim kelly.
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ksjs |
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Alive and Kicking grade
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Graded List
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Aug 3 2009, 4:24 AM EDT by
ksjs |
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Thread started: Aug 3 2009, 4:24 AM EDT
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getting a bit tired of saying the same thing on here: this is not a sport route. a fall from the crux wouldnt be nice. regardless of the outcome of a fall here, sport, its generally accepted, is where youre not thinking about fall consquences / cruxes are protected / any fall, if long, is safe. arguably all 3 criteria are missed here. also, the run out to the belay isnt consistent with sport. this 'giving trad routes sport grades' is really misleading. the route is E2 5b/c.
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Over the Rainbow
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Rainbow Slab
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Aug 1 2009, 1:02 PM EDT by
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Thread started: Jun 2 2008, 5:10 PM EDT
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This route had a rave review form Noel Craine. Thought I'd do it again having put the effort in to re-bolt it. Really enjoyed it, thought it was fantastic in-fact. 21 yrs after making the first ascent! First pitch felt more like 5b but second pitch hard work, I wondered if it might be E4 with the new bolts but still felt like E5 to me, probabaly bottom end though, get on it!
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Last Reply:
RE: Over the Rainbow
By: ,
Aug 1 2009, 1:02 PM EDT
Just done this route today. Absolutely excellent! Great combination of varied climbing and position. A friend led the first pitch so can't comment so easily, but looked to be a bold and commiting start, to good gear, then excellent 5b crack/layback climbing to the top, probably E4 5c (there is a easier traverse in from the left if you trust the hanging fin of death (E3 5c?). The second pitch is classic slate arete and slab climbing. Well protected by bolts in an awesome position, I thought E4 6a. Go and do it!! Nice one Mike.
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