Discussion: Stick's Groove now clean!

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Stick's Groove now clean!

Sep 21 2008, 6:01 PM EDT

I decided there was a defecit of (known about) climbable VSs in the quarries despite there being lots in the book, so I thought I'd attempt to make another one available for the masses... I cleaned Stick's Groove today. It's a reasonable looking but neglected line, a shortish VS 4b groove up the right hand side of the Peter Pan wall (easily located using the guide book). I removed all the mud and vegation out of the crack, brushed off the holds, and rediscovered some potential pro and a ledge to stand on at the base of the groove. It looks like it takes a bit of run off from above which is probably why the vegation crept onto/into it, but if it gets some traffic I think it may well stay clean. I didn't have time to climb it myself as my friends were busy having an elongated ascent elsewhere, but the moves look nice and I'll be on it next time I'm up there. I'd be interested what people think if they climb it. It looks like there are a couple of nut placements so not as bold as it first may look, although don't hold me to that. Hopefully one to encourage people onto the trad, and to spread the load away from Seamstress and Zambesi. Take a big sling and a small cam (0.3 camalot) for the belay.

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