Location: Dali's Hole

Discussion: Aliens Stole my Hacksaw - to be retro-ed?Reported This is a featured thread

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MikeRaine
Aliens Stole my Hacksaw - to be retro-ed?
Oct 15 2008, 11:30 AM EDT | Post edited: Oct 15 2008, 11:30 AM EDT
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A_R
1. RE: Aliens Stole my Hacksaw - to be retro-ed?
Nov 24 2008, 7:06 AM EST | Post edited: Nov 24 2008, 7:06 AM EST
I think that would be unacceptable. 1  out of 1 found this valuable. Do you?    

binkybonk
2. RE: Aliens Stole my Hacksaw - to be retro-ed?
Nov 25 2008, 5:22 AM EST | Post edited: Nov 25 2008, 5:22 AM EST
Hi. It's Jim Kelly. First of all let me say... and, I assume you were the one that soloed it with a "scary to-out", the route is never climbed, it's filthy dirty and who at Dali's Hole wants to be topping out on 8 foot of broken loose slates and bilberry!!!? GET REAL!! Now, if on the other hand, you replied and said "I don't want it retroing but I will go up there install a twin lower-off and clean the route so it can be climbed!", then I might be a bit more agreeable with my response. But, you know and I know you won't be offering to do that so why start bleating when someone else offers to go and sort it out and hopefully, turn it into the route you obviously didn't!!!! It's also worth noting that this thread was posted several week's ago. If you were that bothered you would have responded earlier. Yet again, we have another "negative", "the glass is half empty" response from someone whose only contribution to Dali's hole is 1 route (probably climbed ages ago anyway) which, subsequently, isn't climbed because it's so unappealling! Some people may critisise the routes that I have done there but at least they are clean and, more to the point, safe. Take a long hard look my friend!! anon. Jim. Do you find this valuable?    

binkybonk
3. RE: Aliens Stole my Hacksaw - to be retro-ed?
Nov 25 2008, 5:31 AM EST | Post edited: Nov 25 2008, 5:31 AM EST
Hi Mike. Hope you are well. Apologies for us not getting to the BMC Meeting. I txtd Jonny to pass on our apologies... hopefully, he gave you the message. Please see response to "A.R". Funny how AR constitute as the first 2 letters to a certain word describing part of the human anatomy! Hmmmmmm? Let me think?!! Anyway, it's about time we had some good "exchanges" once again on this site. Can you let me know when the next "Area Meet" is on at the Pad. Many thanks. See you soon. Jim. Do you find this valuable?    

MikeRaine
4. RE: Aliens Stole my Hacksaw - to be retro-ed?
Nov 25 2008, 1:56 PM EST | Post edited: Nov 25 2008, 1:56 PM EST
Tuesday 3rd March The Vaynol. 8.00pm. Let's discuss this route, I've thought of a couple on Pen Trywn I'm thinking of retroing/redistributing the bolts on.

Mike
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binkybonk
5. RE: Aliens Stole my Hacksaw - to be retro-ed?
Nov 27 2008, 9:36 AM EST | Post edited: Nov 27 2008, 9:36 AM EST
Shuhhhhhhhhh!! You can't use that word!! Look at what happened to Jonathan Woss!! Bloody hell, March!! March! The drill will be out doing its stuff long before then!! Incidentally, I might need your help on a "project route" at Dali's... the very steep UNCLIMBED(!!) wall immediately left of Zambezi. I,ve cleaned it only at this stage. Hard? Ummm? Yes. Give me a bell if you are upto a bit of top rope practise one day in the next couple of weeks.. 07787 57 6058. Speak to you soon. Regards, Jimbo. Do you find this valuable?    

binkybonk
6. Whereabouts of the drill and potentail 6C+'s at Dalis ???!!!
Dec 2 2008, 6:34 AM EST | Post edited: Dec 2 2008, 6:34 AM EST
Hi Mike, Hope you enjoyed your voyage of discovery into the vertical world of Costa Del Dali!! I could do with use of the drill.I know you said you were away over the next couple of weeks but I thought i would at least I could get the belay/ lower-off bolts in. It will make it easier for us to work the moves and eliminate all that stretch on a rope belay that seems to extend to Bangor!!!! I think you said Hosey had the drill. If you get this message, can you ask him if he'd be so kind as to drop it off at, say, V12. Doesn't matter if it's not charged as I'm happy to sort that out. Let me know. Speak to you soon. Regards, jim. Do you find this valuable?    
ERU69er
ERU69er
7. RE: Aliens Stole my Hacksaw - to be retro-ed?
Mar 3 2009, 6:26 AM EST | Post edited: Mar 3 2009, 6:26 AM EST
"I think that would be unacceptable."
If AR is the original ascensionist this is the end of the discussion.
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binkybonk
8. RE: Aliens Stole my Hacksaw - to be retro-ed?
Mar 5 2009, 12:55 PM EST | Post edited: Mar 5 2009, 12:55 PM EST
Sorry matey but, after several discussions with others re. "A.R." (whoever this character is!!??) and his apparent piss poor attitude to the bolting at Dali's ... the route in question will get re-cleaned, re-climbed, re-graded and even re-named!! If he wants his routes to be so special then he had better do the job properly in the first place... and situations like this won't arise (see earlier threads!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!). END OF!!! Jim kelly. 0  out of 1 found this valuable. Do you?    

Bork-Worship
9. RE: Aliens Stole my Hacksaw - to be retro-ed?
Apr 2 2009, 6:11 AM EDT | Post edited: Apr 2 2009, 6:11 AM EDT
The way you leap into irrational fits of rage and insults about this is both worrying and amusing. Climbing routes as trad routes is perfectly acceptible in the slate quarries and this line doesn't NEED a line of bolts up it (I assume from your fevour on here that you've done the bolting already). Furthermore re-naming the line becase you don't agree with the way it was first climbed is a dumb and offensive thing to do. As ERU69er says " if AR is the original ascensionist this is the end of the discussion"

You ought to read through what you've posted on here and think about the way it portrays you as a person. I'd also reccomend getting your blood pressure checked.
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binkybonk
10. RE: Aliens Stole my Hacksaw - to be retro-ed?
Apr 17 2009, 11:51 AM EDT | Post edited: Apr 17 2009, 11:51 AM EDT
Yep, you're correct it's all been done!! I suggest you gen up on A.R's. involvement with Dali's Hole and the comments he pointed at Colin Goodey a year or two back!! As for your psychic analysis of me... I'm surprised you didn't ask me about my mother!! When you put in the hard work to establish and maintain the routes like a good few of us do then you may start questioning but, until that time, may I suggest you get back to your case book studies! Oh, and by the way the route in question was discussed at the Area BMCMeeting... you OBVIOUSLY (!) weren't there!! Do you find this valuable?    

MarvinC
11. RE: Aliens Stole my Hacksaw - to be retro-ed?
May 28 2009, 2:00 PM EDT | Post edited: May 28 2009, 2:00 PM EDT
It is not acceptable to go retro bolting routes purely because they aren't safe! When was that ever a justification? I am all for the replacement like for like of bolts in the slate mines and appreciate everyone's hard work. I also have no problem with new sport routes but retroing existing lines just to make them 'safe' or climbable is disgusting. Do you find this valuable?    
chrisdavies
chrisdavies
12. RE: Aliens Stole my Hacksaw - to be retro-ed?
May 31 2009, 5:34 PM EDT | Post edited: May 31 2009, 5:34 PM EDT
just thought i`d ad my penny`s worth, i think it`s important to remember where this route in question is, the area now has so many short bolted routes for the begginers, that to leave one short shitty loose route in amongst them, could probably be considered a danger to the crowds of young kids and adults alike. i would agree in general that to retro bolt all routes , without permission from the first assentionist, would be wrong!
on a lighter note, lets hope that some of the potential new breed of climbers using this area at the mo start to filter through to the rest of the quarrys, and try some of the other fantastic routes and areas available, some with many bolts,some with few, and some with none, and many that need some traffic, and could be just as popular as dali`s.
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