Location: Graded List

Discussion: Y Gwaedlyd - grade?Reported This is a featured thread

Category: Discussion Forum / General Discussion
Showing 3 posts

ksjs
Y Gwaedlyd - grade?
Apr 14 2009, 8:22 AM EDT | Post edited: Apr 14 2009, 8:22 AM EDT
i tried this y'day and got a total kicking. unless i missed something there is no way this is F6c. i got to 3rd bolt and tried just about everything but could i do the move - no sir! is there a trick? is it direct or do you perhaps go left and then back right or what? Do you find this valuable?    
Keyword tags: None

ILLJ
1. RE: Y Gwaedlyd - grade?
Apr 14 2009, 9:23 AM EDT | Post edited: Apr 14 2009, 9:23 AM EDT
It was originally given E4 6a but probably had few repeats until I retro bolted it a while back (so no consensus on the grading) . I remember No Problem E4 6b being hard and the rising Diagonal crack line (Diagonal Dilema - given f7a in the Graded list) which clips all the bolts being very hard (I thought it was British 6c at the time) I guess all 3 routes need their grades checking before the new guide comes out.... Do you find this valuable?    

ksjs
2. RE: Y Gwaedlyd - grade?
Apr 16 2009, 5:45 AM EDT | Post edited: Apr 18 2009, 4:25 PM EDT
im 99% certain that if you go direct from the 3rd bolt this is not F6c; i couldnt see what to do and i regularly onsight well above F6c. with some slate trickery and contortions i guess it might be hard UK 6b?

for what its worth i think quite a few of the sport grades on the graded list are wrong (but then many UK sport grades are out ie UK sport tends to be under-graded generally or is it that the europeans over-grade?) also, theres quite a lot of stuff thats getting sport grades when these are blatantly not sport routes (bolts yes but regular spacing no). Do you find this valuable?