Location: Graded List

Discussion: Child's Play - thoughts on gradeReported This is a featured thread

Category: Discussion Forum / General Discussion
Showing 2 posts

ksjs
Child's Play - thoughts on grade
Jun 21 2009, 6:28 AM EDT | Post edited: Jun 21 2009, 6:28 AM EDT
i struggled on this the other day. i actually got quite annoyed by it: it gets 7a+ yet ive never seen a move like that on a 7a+. neither have i ever taken about 5 tries on a move on a 7a+ and still failed to do it. maybe i was missing something, maybe i had duff beta or maybe its just one of those moves thats ok when you get it / once youve done it. anyway, better to think of the grade as follows: 7a sport route with a UK 6c stopper move as the crux (preceded by a fairly tricky UK 6b move). these moves wouldnt be at all out of place on a Fr 7b+/7c sport route. mortals will struggle to onsight this... Do you find this valuable?    
Keyword tags: None
chrisdavies
chrisdavies
1. RE: Child's Play - thoughts on grade
Jun 22 2009, 6:32 PM EDT | Post edited: Jun 22 2009, 6:32 PM EDT
not done route myself , so cant comment on that, but it used to be E5 6c, b4 it was 7a+. so that might account for the move! Do you find this valuable?