Discussion: ROute left of Zambesi

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MikeRaine	ROute left of Zambesi Oct 5 2009, 3:25 PM EDT \| Post edited: Oct 5 2009, 3:25 PM EDT Well done on getting this route done Jim, sorry we didn't do it sooner. Hope you don't give it an of-fence-ive name!! Post reply Do you find this valuable? Keyword tags: None
CliffordShasby	1. RE: ROute left of Zambesi Oct 10 2009, 3:17 AM EDT hi,i climbed this months ago but kept quiet for fear of upsetting anyone,im interested in what grade it was given,if i remember correctly there was a hard pull on a mono.. cheers cliff Post reply Do you find this valuable?
binkybonk	2. RE: ROute left of Zambesi Oct 13 2009, 8:40 AM EDT IS IT ME OR, DOES THE WORD "PROJECT" WRITTEN AT THE BOTTOM OF A ROUTE MEAN "**** ALL" ALL OF A SUDDEN!!!? ODDLY ENOUGH, THE ROUTE WAS ALSO SUBJECT TO THEFT OF GEAR WHICH BELONGED TO MIKE RAINE AND I... MAYBE YOU CAN SHED SOME LIGHT ON THAT TOO!!? JIM KELLY. Post reply Do you find this valuable?
CliffordShasby	3. RE: ROute left of Zambesi Oct 13 2009, 5:25 PM EDT For fecks sake its like the ukc police on ere,i only asked what grade it was given...! And the route didnt say project anywhere on it when i was there several times,i figured it was a project someone had given up on it had no lower bolts for that long,my intention was to wait and see what grade the f.a. give it for my own interest only,its a nice little route,maybe in hindsight i should of kept quiet,or worded my request for the grade differently. I dont remember there being any gear on it either apart from maybe a crab at the top,and if i find gear at the bottom of a crag i wont use it never mind steal any...! Now if youve got the hump that someone climbed your route fair enough,but it was left unfinished for a long time,and i wanted no claim of any sort to the route,but my appologies accepted or not. As far as accusing me of stealing go and *$%"# yourself. cliff shasby As far as accusing me of stealing Post reply Do you find this valuable?
phil.t	4. RE: ROute left of Zambesi Oct 13 2009, 5:38 PM EDT Hi jim I hope that the guy who claims to have done your route while it was still a project is just pulling your leg. Surely we all know that when people put significant time and effort to clean and prep routes, that they are off limits until either they are climbed or acknowledged as open projects by the original would be first ascentionist...... especially when it states the word project at the bottom . Post reply Do you find this valuable?
chrisdavies	5. RE: ROute left of Zambesi Oct 13 2009, 7:58 PM EDT "hi,i climbed this months ago but kept quiet for fear of upsetting anyone,im interested in what grade it was given,if i remember correctly there was a hard pull on a mono.. cheers cliff" unfortunately cliff, by saying you climbed this months ago, it could affectively mean that the first ascent by jim is not actually the first ascent, so unless you just top roped it, then hopefully you can understand why there is some anger! if you didn`t want a claim of any sort with this route, why mention that you climbed it months earlier? in hindsight you would have been better just waiting to see what grade it was given.hopefully it was just a top rope, so no harm done! yes it is not fair to have suggestions of gear theft worded at you, and i don`t think this forum is here for people to make blind acusations! isn`t hindsight a wonderfull thing!!! Post reply Do you find this valuable?
CliffordShasby	6. RE: ROute left of Zambesi Oct 14 2009, 3:36 AM EDT fair enough then it was toproped....! Post reply Do you find this valuable?
binkybonk	7. RE: ROute left of Zambesi Oct 15 2009, 10:55 AM EDT excuse me pal... that route had "project" written at the base of the shotholes!! so, what you state is complete and utter bollocks!! It's also strange that you claim to have done it considering the bottom 3 hangers were only installed 2 weeks ago!! Oddly enough, when you have a project, leaving the lower hangers off is the usual "protocol".... to stop selfish persons like you skanking other people's routes!! I suggest in future you take this on board lad! Post reply Do you find this valuable?
petejh	8. RE: ROute left of Zambesi Oct 15 2009, 5:08 PM EDT ......... Awkward Silence ........... (please carry on, this is more entertaining than watching sickly *** flouncing) Post reply Do you find this valuable?
petejh	9. RE: ROute left of Zambesi Oct 15 2009, 5:10 PM EDT Bastards, the starzi got me Post reply Do you find this valuable?
A_R	10. RE: ROute left of Zambesi Oct 16 2009, 8:54 AM EDT "excuse me pal... that route had "project" written at the base of the shotholes!! so, what you state is complete and utter bollocks!! " Was that written on a piece of slate at the bottom of the route, along with an aggressive and offensive message? If so I may have borrowed it as a souvenier months ago (tidying up litter, you see, and I needed a paperweight that would keep me amused). Clifford, good effort on your route (toprope, of course) ;) Post reply Do you find this valuable?
binkybonk	11. RE: ROute left of Zambesi Oct 29 2009, 11:35 AM EDT Two words spring to mind here.... "you" and "****!!" Post reply Do you find this valuable?
alunallcock	12. RE: ROute left of Zambesi Nov 2 2009, 5:16 PM EST \| Post edited: Nov 2 2009, 5:16 PM EST Someone please mind my deckchair I'm just off to make a butty!! ;-) Post reply Do you find this valuable?
binkybonk	13. RE: ROute left of Zambesi Nov 3 2009, 8:21 AM EST \| Post edited: Nov 3 2009, 8:21 AM EST Hi alun... that's what I feel like doing. please bear in mind that one of these characters was the one who called one of Dali's activists "a pensioner with a drill!" This person was also given the opportunity to attend the bmc cymru meeting where I requested permission to rebolt his one and only crap contribution to Dali's Hole. Everyone said do it.... so I did and renamed it too! He subsequently chucked his dummy out and has had it in for me ever since... another sleepless night...NOT!! I think it's time to "call time" on this episode.. route is done and led..Dali's is doubling up as Gwantanamo Bay and everyone is migrating from a warm Australia to the cold Northern tundra of Skyline!! Let's hope Oil Drum Glacier freezes up again. Anon.. Jim Kelly. Post reply Do you find this valuable?
chrisdavies	14. RE: ROute left of Zambesi Nov 4 2009, 3:55 AM EST \| Post edited: Nov 4 2009, 3:55 AM EST just get the wind right, it`s not that bed up there!! personally, i think it`s great that the upper levels of the quarry are at last getting some well deserved attention, as for many years it has been lying fairly dormant, and all the effort that was put in in the late eighties onward was not enjoyed by others, so if that is one good thing to take from this whole episode of costa del dali then so be it. hopefully dali`s hole will again become a less sensitive area to climb, and all can get back to some kind of normality, take care, CUITQ, chris. Post reply Do you find this valuable?
jonnyr	15. RE: ROute left of Zambesi Nov 4 2009, 6:07 AM EST \| Post edited: Nov 5 2009, 4:20 PM EST 1. Colin Goodey is a pensioner with a drill, I think thats a fact, and fair play to him! 2. Did A.R know you were to bring up the retro bolting of his(not that he 'owns' the route necessarily) route specifically at that meeting? 3. If his route is so crap then why did you feel it was worth putting bolts into it? 4. Carefull calling other peoples routes 'crap' unless you're non of yours aren't.. 5. People have been beavering away up near the skyline since the rebolting began, well over a couple of years ago, mainly trying to get well away from what was happening at Dali's.. oh the irony! Basically, although it's been amusing to watch this little fued it's also strangely annoying to see the wiki taken up by it. Oh and not forgetting that it doesn't exactly present a united front to any organisations that may be interested in our activities in the quarries.. Rant over. Jon Ratcliffe I think I may have just wasted 10 minutes of my life there.... Post reply Do you find this valuable?