Discussion: De Bolting

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ILLJ	De Bolting Oct 15 2009, 2:53 PM EDT Due to the sensitive Access situation at Dali's Hole, the poor quality of our new routes there! + the need for bolts to equip better quality projects elsewhere, Phil T and myself have decided to remove the hangers from: Slip Not, Why Not, Aardman Productions and Le Petit Pois. This will be done at some point over the next few weeks / months. Hope it doesn't upset anyone too much! Post reply Do you find this valuable? Keyword tags: None
A_R	1. RE: De Bolting Oct 16 2009, 8:45 AM EDT Good effort, glad to hear it. Some of the hangers may be hard to remove as the bolts just seem spin in the hole (inadequate cleaning???), the only way may be shear the bolts - let us know how you get on. Post reply Do you find this valuable?
binkybonk	2. RE: De Bolting Oct 16 2009, 9:03 AM EDT hi ian. it's up to you .. however, i think it's only right to return all the hangers to their rightful owners.. i.e the person who paid for them and put them up in the first place. i would also think it politic to get in touch with mike raine as i can see this escalating into a war of attrition and bolts being redrilled and replaced thus making your sensitive situation even worse. get my drift. feel free to discuss. regards, jim kelly. (ps. forget what the previous response was... the person doesn't have a clue what they are on about!) Post reply Do you find this valuable?
ILLJ	3. RE: De Bolting Oct 16 2009, 12:57 PM EDT Understand it's a sensitive issue, was only going to remove Bolts on our routes (we paid for the bolts in the first place). I will only take the Hangers leaving the bolts in place if the situation eases in the future. The routes further up the quarry are far better in quality and should draw people away from the honey pot that Cost del Dali became. ... Post reply Do you find this valuable?
jonnyr	4. RE: De Bolting Oct 17 2009, 3:28 PM EDT Fair play to you Ian, it's good to see some level headedness at a time when some seem to be losing theirs. I respect your last statement in particular. Jim, calm down please and stop being so confrontational and quick to react with people who, when it comes down to it, are fellow climbers and ultimately are on the same 'side' so to speak, it's you who ends up looking the worse for it. Your last post above says it all really. Post reply Do you find this valuable?
phil.t	5. RE: De Bolting Oct 18 2009, 3:17 PM EDT Hi guys. Just to qualify the situation and put any fears about the debolting issue escalating beyond common sense. The three or four routes we are going to strip the hangers off are our own( rubbish) routes. The main reason for this is to hopefully encourage less activity continuing at a sensitive area in the quarries. Dalis is unfortunately a particularly visible venue being yards from the main track. First Hydro whether we agree with the decision or not have erected a big fence in order to deter people wandering into the venue. I presume for the time being this also relates to the climbering fraternity as well. The studs on our routes will remain in place and the hangers could be replaced if required at a later stage when the overall issue surrounding access has been resolved. It would be a high price to pay if we lost access to the rest of the quarries because of a handful of routes. I know colin and Jim have put alot of effort, time and money into cleaning and climbing routes at Dalis and this comment is not intended as a negative reflection on their endevours. We are simply trying to highlight a sensitive issue before the possibility of firefighting more serious access problems arise. Post reply Do you find this valuable?
chrisdavies	6. RE: De Bolting Oct 18 2009, 4:45 PM EDT hi all, i would like to say that it is nice to see some common sense prevailing here, and maybe if others were in agreement, then they could do similar with there routes at `Costa Del Dali`, as phil mentioned, this action would only dissable routes untill the current situation hopefully changes, and would allow the first ascentionists to re-use there hangers elsewhere in the meantime. it was also mentioned to me the other day, that someone has allready tried to cut the fence, i havent seen it for myself, but if true, it will only antagonise an allready fragile situation. the good news is, that there`s loads more rock to be cleaned and bolted else where up there, happy routeing everybody, see you in the quarrys! Post reply Do you find this valuable?
binkybonk	7. RE: De Bolting Oct 22 2009, 10:43 AM EDT my concern is that it isn't seen as a "free for all" ... get some free bolt hangers!! At nearly £5 a piece now myself, colin and others have invested alot of cash there. Fine if someone wants to strip them but Colin and I will want them returned. That's all. regards, Jim Kelly. Post reply Do you find this valuable?
chrisdavies	8. RE: De Bolting Oct 22 2009, 1:02 PM EDT hi jim, i think the idea is that the owner of the route(so to speak,) takes there own gear back, so they can be used for there own projects etc.., elsewhere. this is what ian and phil have done/doing. that way, you know what you put in, so you know what to take out. on the positive side, at least you and coll will have some more hardware for other areas,happy bolting , happy routeing, CUITQ..chris. Post reply 1 out of 1 found this valuable. Do you find this valuable? Do you?
colinandsue	9. RE: De Bolting Oct 24 2009, 11:43 AM EDT \| Post edited: Oct 26 2009, 12:41 PM EDT It's good to read so much intelligent debate on this subject.Firstly,from my point of view,I'm sadened that such a valuable climbing area has been removed and here I quote Ian:-'A victim of its own success'. So, what do I do ? I am developing other areas as are Ian ,Phil and Chris.I have approx 50 hangers which I could use elsewere-but is it in fact the end of the line for this little crag?Can the BMC possibly negotiate some 'conditional access?-lease the area and take responsibility for it?Who knows. So for the moment I feel that I should not strip off my hangers just yet and hope sense and common decency prevail and my hangers do not start to 'walk'.Your views would help. Thanks to all the above. Colin. Post reply Do you find this valuable?
chrisdavies	10. RE: De Bolting Oct 25 2009, 5:09 PM EDT hi col, i suggest you do what ever makes you feel right, as you, along with others, have put a lot of time and effort into this and other areas, and as the f/a of many routes at dali`s, it is only you who should remove your hangers. if all of us monitor dali`s as i`m sure we are allready, and notice any continued problems with the area, maybe this could be raised on a seperate thread, that will hopefully help along any decisions that may or may not need to be made in the future! hope that helps, CUITQ, chris. Post reply Do you find this valuable?
phil.t	11. RE: De Bolting Nov 8 2009, 5:01 PM EST \| Post edited: Nov 8 2009, 5:01 PM EST Hangers removed from Aardman and le petit pois today. The top hanger in le petit pois stoically remains but is half out and spins like a good 'un. Fetteling will loosen its meager grip on life in the near future. By the by, who half hinched the lowest bolt hanger on Aardmans? Post reply Do you find this valuable?