Discussion: Rockfall in Never Never Land area

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calummonkey	Rockfall in Never Never Land area Oct 22 2009, 4:07 PM EDT There has been a big rockfall up to the right of 'Obsession', the ground is well over a metre higher. Although the rockfall hasn't affected 'Obsession' but my climb 'The Finger Slicer' has almost totally fallen down but for the first few metre, and it didn't get a 2nd ascent ;.), I'll take the opportunity to say that it was actually several grades harder than E3 and I was actually sandbagging! Some good boulder problems have also been buried in the rockfall. 'Ghengis' is probably a gnarly E5 now after the flakey crack thing where the peg and gear placements were has totally fallen down. The crux is now a solo proposition unless a side runner is used on the 2nd bolt of 'Short Stories' is clipped (but that's cheating!). I also think it's worth pointing out that 'Machine in the Ghost' is actually E6 6b and not E4 6a, and I'm not the only one that thinks that! Also climbed a great new route here 'Dark and Scary Stories' at E5 6b and really soft for the grade, get out and repeat it! Post reply Do you find this valuable? Keyword tags: None
jonnyr	1. RE: Rockfall in Never Never Land area Oct 26 2009, 6:23 AM EDT \| Post edited: Oct 29 2009, 5:18 PM EDT Went up there yesterday with Si Panton route checking, and noticed the significant rock fall. In fact, the whole of this area is still like a fall out zone, small pieces of slate constantly fell from above(it was pretty windy mind). It seems a large section of a slate retaining wall above has collapsed, and I would warn people away form this area for now although perhaps the majority of what is going to come down has already done so, but only a check of the top would confirm this. I climbed 'Obsession' and the bolts on this are in a bad way, most bolts on the lower section have been hit by rockfall and are bent and loose; the whole bolt, not just the hangers. I removed the hangers on the 2nd and 3rd bolts to hopefully put folk who haven't seen the post on here off for now. Colin, I have these hangers, nuts and washers and can drop them off for you in V12 for you perhaps? Incidentally I thought the route was really good, a nice line and the best of the easier new bolted routes I've climbed in the area. If you would like any more info about the above Colin then just give me a shout. Cheers, Jon Ratcliffe. Post reply Do you find this valuable?
colinandsue	2. RE: Rockfall in Never Never Land area Oct 30 2009, 1:16 PM EDT Hi John, Thanks for the above info.This will be the second rockfall in this area-the first being on the days leading up to the filming but this big fall did not affect my route.This fall obviously has.I must get up there at earliest and check-out ground above in order to assess the level of threat.I am most pleased you enjoyed the route as I have received very little feed back on it and I feel it is certainly by a big margin, the very best of my efforts to create easier sport routes. Thank you most kindly for removing those lower hangers as this was certainly prudent .Yes please John-V12 with Pete or Caban would be good place for me to recover them-please let me know. Can you give me your candid opinion on the grade I have given to Obession ? Cheers Aye, Colin. Post reply Do you find this valuable?
jonnyr	3. RE: Rockfall in Never Never Land area Oct 30 2009, 7:18 PM EDT No worries Colin, you're welcome. I'll leave them for you and let you know. As for the grade, I thought it was maybe a little soft for 6b but couldn't say if it warranted a down grade as such. Good effort on the route Colin and I sincerely hope it won't be affected by this rock fall in the future. Speak soon Jon Post reply Do you find this valuable?