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Hoseyb |
Unchain area
Mar 19 2007, 5:42 PM EDT
Envy apears to start by a low down shot hole, but starting here is definately hvs territory, whereas starting up the central crack and traversing in makes a nice bold vs. Can anyone clarify this?
Unchain My heart looks good and definately up for rebolting, although the flake pocket looks like detaching soon, what are peoples thoughts to more bolts/ a communal loweroff? Do you find this valuable?
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pete_robins |
1. RE: Unchain area
Mar 20 2007, 8:23 AM EDT
I havn't got the guide with me but I've written all this shit up. The right arete appeared to be described twice so I took one route out. Envy is a variation on these so i've mentioned it in the Emerald Eyes description. It starts near Unchain my Heart and follows an easy line right to the arete, though it is bold.
The character of Unchain my Heart is all about the position of the bolt - just after the hard moves! This was obviously intentional so you should ask the first acentionist (I A Jones was on it). I would say bolt the slab but thats me. Do you find this valuable? |
calummonkey |
2. RE: Unchain area
Aug 1 2007, 11:12 AM EDT
Unchain My Heart wasa nice slab route but don't think the whole slab should be bolted, maybe one more could be added just below the crux but the natural pro wasn't bad, and not to bold.
Both Emerald Eyes and Unchain My Heart need a lower of or possibly share the same one as getting back down is a pain. Do you find this valuable? |
