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MikeRaine |
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beccaw |
1. RE: Gnat Attack
Jul 29 2007, 10:55 AM EDT
surely not! I managed to lead it and think its way easier than Holy Holy Holy/ German Schoolgirl for example (both out of my league). Think the moves are easier if you are flexible but it is only 2 moves really.
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calummonkey |
2. RE: Gnat Attack
Jul 29 2007, 11:49 AM EDT
I rekon that Gnat Attack is more of a 5c and also think Massambula should be graded as E3 5c.
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MikeRaine |
3. RE: Gnat Attack
Jul 29 2007, 1:35 PM EDT
Yea, one move maybe but a tough pull. Holy Holy Holy isn't too bad, runners above your head all the way, just keep laybacking!
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MikeRaine |
4. RE: Gnat Attack
Jul 29 2007, 1:36 PM EDT
Agree with Gnat Attack but feel Massambula OK at E2 5b, you can get some gear in to supplement to bolts.
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beccaw |
5. RE: Gnat Attack
Aug 3 2007, 3:21 PM EDT
hmm still not convinced by the 5c grade argument, keep thinking about german schoolgirl, fools gold etc at the 5c grade and they seem much harder to me. Its a weird one as its a run out sport route really isnt it, with the crux between the 2 bolts. If it was a sport route I wouldnt grade it at 6b, maybe it would get 6a/ 6a+ which is more in line with 5b. Or maybe it just suits my climbing style...!
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ksjs |
6. RE: Gnat Attack
Aug 12 2007, 3:14 PM EDT
got to be 5b. relative to every single 5c pitch ive done on slate (not lots but enough to know how 5c feels) Gnat Attack is considerably easier. for what its worth i thought Massambula at E2 was pretty exciting (never before or since have been on an E2 with as long a run out or such potentially serious fall consequences).
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climbingpixie |
7. RE: Gnat Attack
Aug 30 2007, 1:46 PM EDT
I thought it was right at 5b, though there are two sections of 5b climbing if you're short. Crux moves were definitely easier than those on Psychotherapy and The Monster Kitten although the sequence is less obvious, possibly making it feel a little trickier.
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Smegor |
8. RE: Gnat Attack
Jun 14 2008, 2:40 PM EDT
I thought that Gnat attack was loads harder then fools gold, seams the same, holy holy holy or any other similarly graded routes in the area. The move from the first to the second bolt surely is harder then 5b, or even 5c in my oppinion. i think it depends on what sort of climber you are though, because that is most definately a move for someone who is happy climbing slabs with thin hand and foot holds. Which is not my thing.
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BK1 |
9. RE: Gnat Attack
Apr 12 2009, 8:23 AM EDT
"hmm still not convinced by the 5c grade argument, keep thinking about german schoolgirl, fools gold etc at the 5c grade and they seem much harder to me. Its a weird one as its a run out sport route really isnt it, with the crux between the 2 bolts. If it was a sport route I wouldnt grade it at 6b, maybe it would get 6a/ 6a+ which is more in line with 5b. Or maybe it just suits my climbing style...! "I know what you mean, I've done lots of routes on all rock types around this grade. What you have to rememer is that you're talking about two different grading systems when you try to compare E1 5c with F6a/b. The British system gives a guide to the hardest move on a route, some routes have just one move at this grade, others may have several and be more sustained (it usually says so in the route description). The French system tries to give an overall grade for the difficulties, so some routes may feel relatively cruxy but don't warrant the harder grade because the rest of the route is easier. I've only done Gnat Attack once, "on-sight lead." In the British system that is what the grade is given for and I agree with E1 5c At the time I was comfortably leading E1 and E2 on limestone, grit and slate. Whatever grading system we use, it's always going to be subjective in the first instance and later influenced by consensus. It's just a guide so that you don't bite off more than you can chew. I think anyone who sets off on an 20m slab that has only a couple off bolts for protection has to be confident in their ability and ready to take the consequences if it all goes Pete Tong! Do you find this valuable? |
guddays |
10. RE: Gnat Attack
Jul 4 2009, 6:19 AM EDT
Yeh I agree the sequence isn't obvious so it feels harder. I've done this route a few times now with people who are taller than me that can reach the next good hold but they have all really struggled on this. Sooo, hard 5b but only a couple of moves where as Massambula is a bit more sustained but actually a bit easier and a lot scarier.
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